Katie Gallagher – Fall 2012 – On Silent Soil

February 15, 2012 1:38 pm

view the full collection in our Photo Gallery

story by Lauren Gray
photos by Florence Montmare
web editor Rachel Reneé

After several seasons of making a steady noise, Katie Gallagher’s Silent Soil is her most grounded collection yet. On Thursday, February 9th, The Standard Hotel helped showcase trademark Gallagher moments veiled by a subdued seduction. Faded was the amped aggression of last season, making way for a new serenity. Her “favorite so far,” Gallagher’s collection charmed in silk, chiffon, leather, boiled wool, and shearling.

“I was inspired by the forest…it’s where I was born.”

The first look down a runway of shaved black rubber was flanked by black industrial beams that jutted up from the studio floor. A striking combination of a black fur and leather jacket accompanied a black textured woolen maxi skirt. Once again, Gallagher showed her allegiance to a monochromatic palette. Past seasons utilized bright primary colors. In Silent Soil, she chose earth-tones, adding mellowness to her resume. A moss green leather and shearling combo jacket as well as a distressed off-black leather jacket with popped collar were inspiring. A sleeveless cream three-tiered layered dress soon followed, as did its cascading black counterpart.

Tucks and hardware helped create voluminous skirts paired with athletic-inspired racer-backs. With nary a print in the house, her pieces were brought to life by a play on thick, thin, and sheer. There is movement and animation in the clothes, even without the common illusions of color and print. This is also where Gallagher’s technical talents are showcased, with attention to detail making her work unique.

From the eye-makeup down to the fingertips (painted grey, outlined with metallic gold), there is cohesion. Makeup, provided by Robert Greene and The MAC Pro Team, was lime green pigment dusted around the eyes with black lacquer dots in the corners of the lid. Lips were a matte nude. Hair was a beautifully chaotic up-do of undone, as if her girls had rolled out of a six month slumber from the slick buns and knots of her Spring 2012 collection.

“I normally create a scene, a narrative, or sometimes a whole universe that I would be interested in making a reality, and then I fill these worlds with people…clothes aren’t really at the center of my interests; the people that wear them and their ideals are.”

No Katie Gallagher show would seem to be complete without her trademark leggings. They certainly made a predictable appearance, including on the designer herself, but this time essentially sat backseat.

Silent Soil was a departure from ostentatious previous collections. Gallagher’s new take on drama took center-stage and is by far the most inviting. Whole looks could be seen at the office just as easily as they could be spotted galavanting around lower Manhattan. The show spoke less of costume while still maintaining a wonderful sense of fantasy.

This was a unexpected and welcome surprise from Gallagher. While it’s not the show-stopping, incarceration of her S/S2012, she has given a glimpse into an emotional and mature collection. Her youthful spirit is still apparent, but the girl who lives in Silent Soil has a sensible head on her shoulders. Gallagher’s got her roots in the ground and is proving her lasting power.

More Recent Articles

  • Browse News and Commentary Selects The American Fashion Podcast

    The American Fashion Podcast

    The New York edition of modaCYCLE is temporarily dormant, as we are collaborating with Manufacture New York to create the Fashion Media Center, but our editors are still keeping people informed with the new American Fashion Podcast. Follow the links or just search for “American Fashion” on iTunes. modaCYCLE German Edition continues to publish.

    Read more →
  • Browse Selects Shows and Events Tadashi Shoji Dresses Strong Women

    Tadashi Shoji Dresses Strong Women

    To a group of us after his frothy Spring 2014 show, Tadashi Shoji said in lieu of his theme: “It doesn’t take big shoulder pads and dark pant suits for a woman to be strong.” Known for his feminine party clothes, Mr. Shoji’s current regard for power dressing was not necessarily indicated by either his track record, or what had just gently glided by on the runway. On closer inspection of the impeccably crafted dresses and gowns, I started to see just what sort of strength Mr. Shoji championed and how it was achieved.

    Read more →
  • Browse Selects Shows and Events Jen Kao – Daring Devore Combinations

    Jen Kao – Daring Devore Combinations

    In a chilly, hazy hangar of a space, against a backdrop of gauzy white curtains, Stevie Nicks, and Joni Mitchell, a collection materialized wherein classic singer/songwriter leitmotifs like denim, plaid and devore were sent through Ms. Kao’s cutting tunnel. What came out the other side, once ingeniously stitched back together, was redolent of the past but defiantly new. “This season is about versatility. The clothes ask a girl – beg a girl to want to put it together for herself.” So said Los Angeles-based designer Jen Kao of her billowy, skin baring, hippie/jet setter Spring 2014 collection.

    Read more →
  • Browse Selects Shows and Events Naeem Kahn – Spanish Fire

    Naeem Kahn – Spanish Fire

    Naeem Kahn takes us from Madrid to Buenos Aires for a Spring 2014 trip to beautiful. Essential motifs of Latin passion- flamenco, the lace mantilla and bold red roses, are vehicles for the journey. A master of embellishment, Kahn gave a profusion of Chantilly lace, floral embroidery, caviar beading, seed pearls, hand-painted fabric, and metallic appliqué, but he balanced all that with simple silhouettes and a mostly red, black, white and gold color scheme. The effect, though fancy, was never excessive.

    Read more →
  • Browse Selects Shows and Events Jeremy Laing – Rave On, Barbie

    Jeremy Laing – Rave On, Barbie

    Jeremy Laing lives and works in Toronto, where the winter is long and dark, and summer is lovingly referred to as three months of bad sledding. An understandable longing for hot summer days and hotter nights informed his Spring-Summer 2014 collection, shown in New York, where we take heat waves for grumpily granted. When the sprightly young designer was asked to verbally autograph the show moments before it began he chirruped, “its Malibu Beach Barbie goes to a rave!”

    Read more →
  • Browse Selects Shows and Events Reem Acra – Star Strut

    Reem Acra – Star Strut

    The clear message from Reem Acra for Spring 2014 is get up and dance. There were no backstage discussions of empowering women or clothes conferring confidence for the demands of their busy lives. No, no. Ms. Acra wants her girls to have some fun. Proof was the show started, not with the expected selection of spiffy day looks, but rather with a sparkly detonation of molten, bias cut, and draped party dresses in black, the key shade of night.

    Read more →
  • Browse Selects Shows and Events Helmut Lang – No Corners Cut

    Helmut Lang – No Corners Cut

    “We like the idea that something is constructed and crisp, but at the same time is floaty and easy.” These were the calm and precise words of Nicole Colovos, minutes before presenting the Helmut Lang Spring 2014 collection, which she designed with her husband, Michael Colovos. Crisp. Sharp. Pure. Clean. These were the touchstone words for the collection. The beautiful tension between construction and ease originated in natural fabrics like chintzed silk, twisted linen, and cotton waxed or in simple white shirting. Even the leather, in either matte or perforated treatment, looked cool and comfy, bonded like the wool pieces to soft jersey to create comfortable effortless efficiency.

    Read more →
  • Browse Selects Shows and Events Cushnie et Ochs – Cut To Reveal

    Cushnie et Ochs – Cut To Reveal

    Finding beauty in the tools of bodily constraint was the admitted goal of this Spring 2014 collection by Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs. Straps, buckles and bandages are not very attractive when found in a hospital milieu, but with a bit of alchemy, these elements did a sharp glissade down the knife blade runway of Mistresses Cushnie and Ochs, giving glamour to spare.

    Read more →