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photography by Rachel Renée
all styling by Amy Gifford
models are Chandler (Emmanuelle) & Stefania (Sharlet Grier)
“When I was younger, I felt it was my duty to wake people up. I thought poetry was asleep. I thought rock ‘n’ roll was asleep.” – Patti Smith
featuring garments by Style Stalker, San & Soni, and Eight C
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Jackie Fraser Swan’s Fall 2013 collection continued her Emerson brand’s parade of head on her shoulders cool girl staples. It’s a young lively assortment with great color choices, displaying interesting use of patterns and leather. Good fits for environments from classroom to office to cocktail reception. She has a good habit of framing or presenting the neck and shoulders very well.
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It doesn’t happen very often, but occasionally someone in Ralph Rucci’s atelier will forget and hang too many Chado garments on one rack, thus prompting the designer to declare, “No no no. You can’t crowd the girls like this. They can’t breathe.” Never crowd the girls. This avowal might seem charmingly anecdotal, but if you know Rucci, you know he means it quite seriously. Each dress, skirt, gown, coat, or blouse isn’t just alive for him. Every one is adored as a dear friend or even a child, born more than made by not a team but a family. So please. Never crowd the girls.
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Our review of the Fall 2013 Chado Ralph Rucci collection will be published soon, but we had two photographers in very different positions at this show, and so many great pictures of such a long show, it seems odd to edit them down for one article, so here is a special feature that brings you specifically my view from the front row. There are three shows I try to never miss during New York Fashion Week, and I think you’ll see why Mr. Rucci’s remains number one.
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Last night’s Third Wave Fashion Meetup was a packed house with many guests turned away at the door due to capacity issues, despite being held in a fairly large space. Why was it standing room only? Social media. On the panel were the women behind the tweets at Fashion Indie, Bergdorf Goodman, Michael Kors, and Bauble Bar. They were followed by a keynote address from the former VP of Brand and Social Media at American Express. Before anyone even arrived, a powerful lineup in great shoes, to be sure.
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There is an adage in fashion, goes something like – “If you wore a trend the first time, you’re too old to wear it when it returns.” Did the grande dame Diane von Furstenburg get where she is by following such reductive rules? Mais non. This cheeky iconoclast wears her curly hair long, her red-soled heels high, and she lives by the declaration proffered prior to her Fall 2013 show – “ It’s not that you are going to a party, life is a party!” DVF’s party had smiling models, cheery fabrics in pink, red, rust, and royal blue, funky animal prints and lurex, disco diva classics, soft touchable hair and a host of fluid, flattering, very easy to wear dresses and trousers.
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Often when a designer’s name, and more to the point a woman designer’s name, is made in bridalwear, the dear promise that was respectfully made between artist and subject is carried on at ready to wear and kept fast: I will not let you down, I will never let you look a fool, I know that today is your day, I know one picture lasts a lifetime. It’s therefore no wonder then that Monique Lhuillier has triumphed at the particular business of red carpet glamour. She understands what it means to dress the woman in focus. With all eyes and cameras pointed at her, Lhuillier’s woman does not “…want to take a risk at such an important time. That’s why simple silhouettes are best. Women are more comfortable taking a chance on color or treatment.” This wise formula is in play on her Fall 2013 runway, and will work wonders at award shows, film openings, charity balls, and any gala event where a woman must make being on display look gracefully easy.
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I asked Reem Acra, known for her florally feminine bridal and evening wear, if I was correct in sensing a new forceful if not downright aggressive energy in her crimson splashed black collection for Fall 2013. “Well yes!” she answered readily, “I am a strong woman, and I believe it’s time again for women to be stronger! These are clothes that will protect, give armor to the wearer so they can be fierce!” From bride to fierce – indeed any busy, multi-mani-pedi-tasking woman will tell you, it’s all fun and games until someone gets married…
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“We started the company because there wasn’t clothing out there for women who wanted to be sexy without being vulgar.” Sex without vulgarity, no offense guys, is a style better served by the ladies, and perfectly executed by the ladies Cushnie et Ochs, whose Fall 2013 offering put me in mind of the great Gypsy Rose Lee. Ms. Lee – a clever performer whose striptease always kept a giddy, erotic tension between that which was revealed and that which was concealed – defended the dubious ethos of her métier by saying, “ I was never naked. I was completely covered by a blue spotlight!” Cushnie et Ochs has you covered.
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