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story by Lauren Gray
photos by Florence Montmare
web editor Rachel Reneé
After several seasons of making a steady noise, Katie Gallagher’s Silent Soil is her most grounded collection yet. On Thursday, February 9th, The Standard Hotel helped showcase trademark Gallagher moments veiled by a subdued seduction. Faded was the amped aggression of last season, making way for a new serenity. Her “favorite so far,” Gallagher’s collection charmed in silk, chiffon, leather, boiled wool, and shearling.
“I was inspired by the forest…it’s where I was born.”
The first look down a runway of shaved black rubber was flanked by black industrial beams that jutted up from the studio floor. A striking combination of a black fur and leather jacket accompanied a black textured woolen maxi skirt. Once again, Gallagher showed her allegiance to a monochromatic palette. Past seasons utilized bright primary colors. In Silent Soil, she chose earth-tones, adding mellowness to her resume. A moss green leather and shearling combo jacket as well as a distressed off-black leather jacket with popped collar were inspiring. A sleeveless cream three-tiered layered dress soon followed, as did its cascading black counterpart.
Tucks and hardware helped create voluminous skirts paired with athletic-inspired racer-backs. With nary a print in the house, her pieces were brought to life by a play on thick, thin, and sheer. There is movement and animation in the clothes, even without the common illusions of color and print. This is also where Gallagher’s technical talents are showcased, with attention to detail making her work unique.
From the eye-makeup down to the fingertips (painted grey, outlined with metallic gold), there is cohesion. Makeup, provided by Robert Greene and The MAC Pro Team, was lime green pigment dusted around the eyes with black lacquer dots in the corners of the lid. Lips were a matte nude. Hair was a beautifully chaotic up-do of undone, as if her girls had rolled out of a six month slumber from the slick buns and knots of her Spring 2012 collection.
“I normally create a scene, a narrative, or sometimes a whole universe that I would be interested in making a reality, and then I fill these worlds with people…clothes aren’t really at the center of my interests; the people that wear them and their ideals are.”
No Katie Gallagher show would seem to be complete without her trademark leggings. They certainly made a predictable appearance, including on the designer herself, but this time essentially sat backseat.
Silent Soil was a departure from ostentatious previous collections. Gallagher’s new take on drama took center-stage and is by far the most inviting. Whole looks could be seen at the office just as easily as they could be spotted galavanting around lower Manhattan. The show spoke less of costume while still maintaining a wonderful sense of fantasy.
This was a unexpected and welcome surprise from Gallagher. While it’s not the show-stopping, incarceration of her S/S2012, she has given a glimpse into an emotional and mature collection. Her youthful spirit is still apparent, but the girl who lives in Silent Soil has a sensible head on her shoulders. Gallagher’s got her roots in the ground and is proving her lasting power.
