view the full collection in our Photo Gallery
story by Landon Peoples
photos by Michael Cinquino
web editor Rachel Reneé
For once, black was in great debate this season, due to all of the color Fall has brought with it. But Dawn Han’s Fall 2012 collection retouches New York’s timeless idea of all black for all occasions, and adds to it a new sense of pride. “This collection is 1930s meets military meets menswear. When I get behind a vision, it’s always a mixed basket of ideas,” Han explained. With multiple drawings on the table, Han tamed each one into a strong collection that visibly flowed. And when asked why the choice to remain loyal to black, Han simply stated, “It’s just easier for me to work with. And I love it.” In the past, critics have slammed the lack of color in collections, calling it a safe zone and tired, but Han presented a collection was not only liberating and innovative, but far from boring.
Presented in a quaint media studio deep in the heart of Greenwich Village, Han’s collection was worth the trek. Guests were greeted with an 11-look lineup that was more than meets the eye. Sheer and heavy maxi-skirts were in bulk, standing next to tailored military and parachute pants. These masculine bottoms were paired with velvet and sheer blouses, wool turtle necks, and weighty jackets that exemplified Han’s desire for a masculine take on womenswear. Let not be forgotten, though, one look of hunter green that leveled out the dense palette. The pieces themselves were a subtle take on goth glam, but it was the accessories and styling that truly turned each look into its own story.
Tight braids wrapping around the heads of the ominous 6-foot-somethings complimented the structure and fastened seams of each garment. Stoles and epaulets on thigh-length coats and cropped jackets evoke maturity and depth. “I played with fur this season because when I think of fur, I always associate it with an older woman. I wanted this collection to have an updated, luxe look,” Han said. The combat boots (perhaps the most prudent part) provided a strong base for each skirt, dress, and pant as it sulked across the wooden stage. As for the makeup, Han’s models were terrifyingly white with matte plum lips.
Dawn Han’s Fall 2012 collection may just be what every female 20-something film noir addict needs. Why the FIT graduate has struggled selling in the past is unclear, but it seems certain this season, Han has finally come into her own.