story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Adrianna Favero and Stephen F. Bodi
Steeped in the spirit and history of New England, Emerson‘s designer Jackie Fraser Swan is, if there is such a thing, a conservative risk taker. She loves to alter and invent, but is by no means a wild child. With her collections there is always a sense of the classic torn asunder. She combines the shapes and styles that the fabrics she is drawn to suggest to her with a unique take on staple fashion shapes and styles.
She will often move something from the expected place or replace it entirely as she did this season with her take on a long cut-away eight-button coat that was at once a tail coat but not quite, and a zipper trench…but not quite. Occasionally her pieces are brave in the attempt but don’t quite feel balanced or complete. Most of the time though, her reworking works very well. The Fall 2012 collection was more luxe than her punk Spring 2012 lineup, but it still had moxie and muscle. There was a great deal of creative sheer play with lace, in patterns both traditional and a more modern banding. Mixed in spots with leather and pops of color, it imparted a sense of serious fun.
There was the expected “Emersonian” experimentation with textures and prints and those pieces were all standouts. Whether it was a beautiful gray ombre pattern on a skirt suit or a cleverly cut hooded coat. Or a sublime diamond quilt in dark purple on two jackets and a skirt Fraser Swan’s inventiveness was on full display.