threeASFOUR – One Amazing Show

There is a mathematical precision to a threeASFOUR design which is really remarkable. The legendary team, Adi, Gabi & Ange, exposed their guiding principle while chatting after the show, telling me, “we follow the shapes of nature, so we never go wrong.”

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Charles Beckwith

There is a mathematical precision to a threeASFOUR design which is really remarkable. The legendary team, Adi, Gabi & Ange, exposed their guiding principle while chatting after the show, telling me, “we follow the shapes of nature, so we never go wrong.”

Continue reading “threeASFOUR – One Amazing Show”

Victor de Souza – Fall 2012 – Espana de Souza

Victor de Souza’s Fall 2012 collection brought valor and drama his past collections lacked. Previously, we’ve seen Mr. de Souza play with lighter fantasies of ballet and romance, but this season, he pulled out all the stops. With floral ball gowns and Victorian maxi skirts, de Souza drew inspiration from Spain (an apparent recurring theme in New York this season), and further carried out that motif via matador tassels, ultra-tailoring, taffeta rosettes, and arm-length leather gloves. “I wanted to go back to the roots of fashion, when it was dedicated and sophisticated, but with a twist. I let the masters of Haute Couture… Dior, Givenchy, Balenciaga… speak to me,” de Souza said.

view the full collection in our Photo Gallery

story by Landon Peoples
photos by Stephen Bodi
web editor Rachel Reneé

Victor de Souza’s Fall 2012 collection brought valor and drama his past collections lacked. Previously, we’ve seen Mr. de Souza play with lighter fantasies of ballet and romance, but this season, he pulled out all the stops. With floral ball gowns and Victorian maxi skirts, de Souza drew inspiration from Spain (an apparent recurring theme in New York this season), and further carried out that motif via matador tassels, ultra-tailoring, taffeta rosettes, and arm-length leather gloves. “I wanted to go back to the roots of fashion, when it was dedicated and sophisticated, but with a twist. I let the masters of Haute Couture… Dior, Givenchy, Balenciaga… speak to me,” de Souza said. Continue reading “Victor de Souza – Fall 2012 – Espana de Souza”

Chado Ralph Rucci – Spring 2012 Review – Experimental Elegance

“When I’m asked about the clothes, I…I don’t know. I pick up from where I left off, and then I get feelings, and then it comes from here.” When Ralph Rucci said that to me, he pointed to his solar plexus, the center of his torso. He does not create from his head, he does not create from his heart, he really doesn’t even create from his soul. His body of work has expresses itself through him. Mr. Rucci has repeatedly stated that he feels no sense of ownership or possession over the unique and moving works that populate his collections.

View the full collection in our Photo Gallery.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Charles Beckwith

“When I’m asked about the clothes, I…I don’t know. I pick up from where I left off, and then I get feelings, and then it comes from here.” When Ralph Rucci said that to me, he pointed to his solar plexus, the center of his torso. He does not create from his head, he does not create from his heart, he really doesn’t even create from his soul. His body of work has expresses itself through him. Mr. Rucci has repeatedly stated that he feels no sense of ownership or possession over the unique and moving works that populate his collections. He constantly refers to his team and uses “we,” and this is done not out of modesty but for accuracy. Mr. Rucci tries always to be accurate about what he has done, how he did it, and how he feels about it. Continue reading “Chado Ralph Rucci – Spring 2012 Review – Experimental Elegance”

Victor de Souza – Fall 2011

Consummate perfectionist Victor de Souza was still sewing things onto garments as the girls got dressed backstage at his Fall 2011 show, but what came down the runway was finished and refined. His tailoring skill with wool and silks was more highly evident than in any previous collection.

story by Charles Beckwith
photos by Adrianna Favero

Consummate perfectionist Victor de Souza (one of modaCYCLE’s 10 Designers To Watch in 2011) was still sewing things onto garments as the girls got dressed backstage at his Fall 2011 show, but what came down the runway was finished and refined. His tailoring skill, particularly with wool and silks, was more highly evident than in any previous collection. Asked what he set out to accomplish between last season and this one, Sr. de Souza said, “well, I always wanted to do tailored, really well tailored clothes, and that’s what I added. We worked really hard at it. We have the perfect jacket, the perfect fit, the perfect everything, and I was all about that. And mixing things that I feel is really personal that I’ve been involved a lot with, the ruffles and the lily tails, and the couture elements.” Continue reading “Victor de Souza – Fall 2011”

Siki Im – Fall 2011

Mr. Im’s Fall 2011 collection pulls a vibe to it where you can imagine places and people.

story by Dana Varon
photos by Stephen Bodi and Charles Beckwith

Siki Im is not afraid to take risks. He takes them with videos on his site that he calls “motion,” where he takes images, sound, movement, and atmosphere, and melds them together into a short piece of art. The clothing follows suit– Mr. Im’s Fall 2011 collection pulls a vibe to it where you can imagine places and people. This time and place drawing heavily on Native American culture and perhaps the folk that were not exactly in it but around it. Utilising a real dirt runway was a fit for this earthy collection that featured woven Indian blankets fastened as outerwear with large buttons, fitted worn in cardigans, a comfy large robe, and soft drapey pants that have strings and are cupped at the ankle. Continue reading “Siki Im – Fall 2011”

Victor de Souza – Fall 2010 – New York

This was definitely a fashion-as-art sort of collection, with sufficient attention to wearability, and he seems to have a lot of buzz around the brand to a point where it might just be sustainable commercially, despite the unorthadoxed presentation style.

story by Joseph Davis and Charles Beckwith
photos by Tal Shpantzer and Charles Beckwith
edited by Alexandra Dawes

For Fall 2010, de Souza took his ideal woman and gave her an other-worldy makeover in a chic Greenwich Village Moroccan restaurant. His models drifted through the space in alien-inspired makeup, making them appear to have landed in New York City for fashion week from points far further and abroad than St. Petersburg and Rio.

Continue reading “Victor de Souza – Fall 2010 – New York”

Petrou\Man – Fall 2010 – New York

Looking at Petrou\Man is like looking at a recent contemporary art exhibition. You’re not quite sure exactly what it is you may be seeing, but you defiantly want to continue to look at it.

story by Michael Fragoso
photos by John Lamparski

Looking at Petrou\Man is like looking at a recent contemporary art exhibition. You’re not quite sure exactly what it is you may be seeing, but you defiantly want to continue to look at it. Hailing from the legendary design school of Central St Martins, Nicolas Petrou’s avant-grunge designs have intricate stylingís that defy explanation. Continue reading “Petrou\Man – Fall 2010 – New York”

Kaviar Gauche “Stripped” Fall 2010 Collection – Berlin

The inspiration for the Kaviar Gauche collection and show was the Berlin avant garde artists of the 1920s, with nods to the uninhibited urges toward amusement expressed by period style icons like Marlene Dietrich.

story and photos by Boris Marberg
photo editing by Katie Piper

Running parallel to Mercedes-Benz Berlin Fashion Week was the Michalsky StyleNite, which included three of the more avant garde designers’ collections: Michalsky, Lala Berlin, and Kaviar Gauche.

The inspiration for the Kaviar Gauche collection and show was the Berlin avant garde artists of the 1920s, with nods to the uninhibited urges toward amusement expressed by period style icons like Marlene Dietrich. Continue reading “Kaviar Gauche “Stripped” Fall 2010 Collection – Berlin”

Katie Gallagher Spring-Summer 2010 Collection

Here are some shots of the Katie Gallagher spring-summer 2010 collection presentation. Wild stuff.

photos by Adrianna Favero

Here are some shots of the Katie Gallagher spring-summer 2010 collection presentation. Wild stuff. Continue reading “Katie Gallagher Spring-Summer 2010 Collection”

Siki Im Spring-Summer 2010 Collection

The former Senior Designer for Karl Lagerfeld and Helmut Lang presented his avant garde conceptual line in a dark warehouse space deep in New York City’s Meatpacking District.

story by Rachel Francois
photos by Adrianna Favero

“Black Beat, White Wonder” was the title of promising designer Siki Im’s eponymous debut menswear collection. The former Senior Designer for Karl Lagerfeld and Helmut Lang presented his conceptual line in a dark warehouse space deep in New York City’s Meatpacking District. Continue reading “Siki Im Spring-Summer 2010 Collection”