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Certain things are a given in an A Détacher collection. You will see things you have never seen before. You will, if you are paying close attention, and you should be, see construction and detailing you have never seen before. And you will likely be temporarily removed from your seat and taken to wherever designer Mona Kowalska’s mind happened to be when she created the collection.
story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Stephen Bodi
Certain things are a given in an A Détacher collection. You will see things you have never seen before. You will, if you are paying close attention, and you should be, see construction and detailing you have never seen before. And you will likely be temporarily removed from your seat and taken to wherever designer Mona Kowalska’s mind happened to be when she created the collection. Continue reading “A Détacher – Mona’s Map of The World”
Escorted by a caravan vision of happy gypsies, soothsayers, and exotic mystics, New York girl Mara Hoffman conveyed a Fall 2013 collection true to her brand, and a standout amid the many somber looks prevalent on other runways. Using every inch of the rainbow, plus a few metallics and neons, Hoffman’s simple short shifts, long columns, caftans, and pants came alive in a madcap assortment of prints so precious to the designer she named them: Caravan, Phoenix, Leopard, Suzani and Trickster. Embroidery and metal beading gave texture and depth to the rustic charm of the clothes. Cold weather-wear must be tricky for Hoffman, who is best known for her bikinis and resort line. Take away one of the few wrap coats – doff the selection of chunky pullovers, cardigans and shawls, each knitted up in her colors and patterns – and these optimistic outfits would, in fact, look just right on a yacht. Something to dream about when it’s cold and grey…
story by Lisa Radano
photos by UdoR
Escorted by a caravan vision of happy gypsies, soothsayers, and exotic mystics, New York girl Mara Hoffman conveyed a Fall 2013 collection true to her brand, and a standout amid the many somber looks prevalent on other runways. Using every inch of the rainbow, plus a few metallics and neons, Hoffman’s simple short shifts, long columns, caftans, and pants came alive in a madcap assortment of prints so precious to the designer she named them: Caravan, Phoenix, Leopard, Suzani and Trickster. Embroidery and metal beading gave texture and depth to the rustic charm of the clothes. Cold weather-wear must be tricky for Hoffman, who is best known for her bikinis and resort line. Take away one of the few wrap coats – doff the selection of chunky pullovers, cardigans and shawls, each knitted up in her colors and patterns – and these optimistic outfits would, in fact, look just right on a yacht. Something to dream about when it’s cold and grey… Continue reading “Mara Hoffman – Rushing Into Winter With Colors of The Equator”
The fascinating dragonfly pins used to accent the deconstructed Edwardian separates of Sukeina’s Fall 2013 collection intrigue me. Flying with a minimum of effort in all six directions at an amazing 45 miles an hour, or hovering like a helicopter, these iridescent creatures in almost every part of the world symbolize discovery, change, and self-realization. As an orphaned child, Sukeina designer Omar Salam of Dakar, Republic of Senegal, spent his childhood in various European countries. While the music for his show was very clearly West African, what I saw on his runway suggested formative time spent in the British Isles. Mr. Salam takes the classic English polo neck, and the even more classic Edwardian high-necked blouse and pairs these with sleek pants, snug dresses, fit and flare skirts topped with a host of captivating jackets, rendered modern by a process of de/reconstruction. Using fabrics of chiffon, cashmere, and an edgy black and grey tartan shot with iridescent silver thread, in sedate colors of beige, crème, and black with a pop of royal blue, Salam’s hems, sleeves, peplums, shoulders and collars are sent in gracefully marvelous dragonfly directions.
story by Lisa Radano
photos by Charles Beckwith
The fascinating dragonfly pins used to accent the deconstructed Edwardian separates of Sukeina’s Fall 2013 collection intrigue me. Flying with a minimum of effort in all six directions at an amazing 45 miles an hour, or hovering like a helicopter, these iridescent creatures in almost every part of the world symbolize discovery, change, and self-realization. As an orphaned child, Sukeina designer Omar Salam of Dakar, Republic of Senegal, spent his childhood in various European countries. While the music for his show was very clearly West African, what I saw on his runway suggested formative time spent in the British Isles. Mr. Salam takes the classic English polo neck, and the even more classic Edwardian high-necked blouse and pairs these with sleek pants, snug dresses, fit and flare skirts topped with a host of captivating jackets, rendered modern by a process of de/reconstruction. Using fabrics of chiffon, cashmere, and an edgy black and grey tartan shot with iridescent silver thread, in sedate colors of beige, crème, and black with a pop of royal blue, Salam’s hems, sleeves, peplums, shoulders and collars are sent in gracefully marvelous dragonfly directions. Continue reading “Sukeina And The Dragonfly”
La Perla is a venerable 60 year old Italian company, beloved internationally, but revered domestically – and especially adored in its hometown of Bologna. Creative Director Giovanni Bianchi, also from Bologna, has established himself at the design helm for several seasons. Passion, sensuality, and romance are words that are sprinkled liberally over any dish of Italian identity. In fact, Italians consider themselves ambassadors of these ideals, and their commensurate talent for all things stylish seemingly goes right down to the DNA.
story by Lisa Radano
photos by Charles Beckwith
La Perla is a venerable 60 year old Italian company, beloved internationally, but revered domestically – and especially adored in its hometown of Bologna. Creative Director Giovanni Bianchi, also from Bologna, has established himself at the design helm for several seasons. Passion, sensuality, and romance are words that are sprinkled liberally over any dish of Italian identity. In fact, Italians consider themselves ambassadors of these ideals, and their commensurate talent for all things stylish seemingly goes right down to the DNA. Continue reading “La Perla – Shades of Spain”
The room was dark, a-tonal, screeching wails transmitted by the D.J. pervaded the small space, and an eager crowd squeezed past a long platform atop which a double row of models stood still, frozen in the gloom. This was the scene at Katie Gallagher’s Fall 2013 presentation, aptly named “The Winter That Froze You Away.” With clothes bleakly named “Tundra Dress,” “Mourn Jacket,” and the especially harsh sounding “Frostbite Bodysuit,” one might assume melancholy or a bad case of S.A.D. had overcome the young R.I.S.D. graduate. She spoke about her search for the balance between autobiographical expression and universal appeal – and no matter the grim visions which may have pervaded her process, what resulted was a selection of 16 warm and wearable garments.
story by Lisa Radano
photos by Charles Beckwith
The room was dark, a-tonal, screeching wails transmitted by the D.J. pervaded the small space, and an eager crowd squeezed past a long platform atop which a double row of models stood still, frozen in the gloom. This was the scene at Katie Gallagher’s Fall 2013 presentation, aptly named “The Winter That Froze You Away.” With clothes bleakly named “Tundra Dress,” “Mourn Jacket,” and the especially harsh sounding “Frostbite Bodysuit,” one might assume melancholy or a bad case of S.A.D. had overcome the young R.I.S.D. graduate. She spoke about her search for the balance between autobiographical expression and universal appeal – and no matter the grim visions which may have pervaded her process, what resulted was a selection of 16 warm and wearable garments. Continue reading “Katie Gallagher’s Frozen Memories”
After many successful seasons designing for Ports 1961, Tia Cibani set off to define and establish her own unique voice. I asked her how that felt, and her measured answer spoke to both sides of the question. “In a way, it’s all very new, but at the same time this isn’t my first collection. So, I feel very comfortable, but it’s also scary.” The combination of confidence and vulnerability Cibani experienced while designing her second namesake collection is expressed in the clothes themselves, quite directly in fact.
story by Lisa Radano
photos by Charles Beckwith
After many successful seasons designing for Ports 1961, Tia Cibani set off to define and establish her own unique voice. I asked her how that felt, and her measured answer spoke to both sides of the question. “In a way, it’s all very new, but at the same time this isn’t my first collection. So, I feel very comfortable, but it’s also scary.” The combination of confidence and vulnerability Cibani experienced while designing her second namesake collection is expressed in the clothes themselves, quite directly in fact. Continue reading “Tia Cibani – A Rising Star Raising Eyebrows”
What was Lindsay Degen’s inspiration for her Fall 2013 collection? Initial research revealed her usual knitted and crocheted silhouette of crop tops or tunics over leggings were this season embellished with colorful yarn nubs, twigs, pods and jagged strands. Field interviews provided additional data as to the source material for these peculiar and specific decorations, further indicated by the show’s title, “The Doctor,” and the assorted garment names; “Rare Strain Pants,” “Germ Shorts,” “Virus Sweater Dress,” “Platelet T,” and my favorite: “Yuck Sweater.”
story by Lisa Radano
photos by Charles Beckwith
What was Lindsay Degen’s inspiration for her Fall 2013 collection? Initial research revealed her usual knitted and crocheted silhouette of crop tops or tunics over leggings were this season embellished with colorful yarn nubs, twigs, pods and jagged strands. Field interviews provided additional data as to the source material for these peculiar and specific decorations, further indicated by the show’s title, “The Doctor,” and the assorted garment names; “Rare Strain Pants,” “Germ Shorts,” “Virus Sweater Dress,” “Platelet T,” and my favorite: “Yuck Sweater.” Continue reading “Degen Is Down With Something”
It was nearly sunset in a loft suspended above the Hudson, which sparkled like the flutes of Dom Perignon offered as a gesture of matrimonial indulgence to all of us lucky enough to attend Marchesa’s Fall 2013 Bridal show. Ms. Chapman and Ms. Craig are well known for amply providing the red carpet with their opulent balance of draping and design. Their white carpet is just as glamorous, yet slightly more vulnerable – fragile yet bold at the core.
story by Lisa Radano
photos by Charles Beckwith
It was nearly sunset in a loft suspended above the Hudson, which sparkled like the flutes of Dom Perignon offered as a gesture of matrimonial indulgence to all of us lucky enough to attend Marchesa’s Fall 2013 Bridal show. Ms. Chapman and Ms. Craig are well known for amply providing the red carpet with their opulent balance of draping and design. Their white carpet is just as glamorous, yet slightly more vulnerable – fragile yet bold at the core. Continue reading “Marchesa In Matrimony”
The first gown out at Badgely Mischka’s fall 2013 Bridal show was named “Heavenly,” and celestial inspiration was abundant throughout the ethereal collection. The Mark Badgley and James Mischka design duo’s gift for enhancing classic silhouettes with intricate embellishment was tendered with a light and charming touch. Crystals and gold bouillon sparkled their way around waists, across bodices, and along panels, as if washed ashore by a glittering sea, or like stars revealed by passing clouds.
story by Lisa Radano
photos by Charles Beckwith
The first gown out at Badgely Mischka’s fall 2013 Bridal show was named “Heavenly,” and celestial inspiration was abundant throughout the ethereal collection. The Mark Badgley and James Mischka design duo’s gift for enhancing classic silhouettes with intricate embellishment was tendered with a light and charming touch. Crystals and gold bouillon sparkled their way around waists, across bodices, and along panels, as if washed ashore by a glittering sea, or like stars revealed by passing clouds. Continue reading “Badgley Mischka’s Heavenly Brides”
