Kaelen – Fall 2011

It is always nice to see a collection that you would happily place, in its entirety, right into your closet. Kaelen Farncomb’s fall 2011 is one of those. Nestled in its amiable pseudo barn setting stocked with bull, wood, and whiskey, you could almost swear you are out of the city and somewhere cozy and country.

story by Dana Varon
photos by Ned and Aya Rosen

It is always nice to see a collection that you would happily place, in its entirety, right into your closet. Kaelen Farncomb’s fall 2011 is one of those. Nestled in its amiable pseudo barn setting stocked with bull, wood, and whiskey, you could almost swear you are out of the city and somewhere cozy and country. Continue reading “Kaelen – Fall 2011”

Mandy Coon – Fall 2011

Ms. Coon pulled off the presentation with strong geometric designs. An example would be a top made with chiffon and leather wore with a high waisted wool pants showed her talents in the use of lines. Overall her collection was playful and tasteful with strong structures.

story by Kerry Kong
photos by Adrianna Favero

Mandy Coon’s fall 2011 presentation revealed a darker side of this rising New York-based designer. Inspired by an image of her mother dressing in a creamy turtleneck and high-waisted trousers in the late 1970s, Ms. Coon decided to do something elegant but with a touch of mystery for her Fall 2011 collection. Almost all of the looks had some leather touches here or there. Ms. Coon also played with contrast in a few looks. One look that contained this concept was a bright magenta top with a black long dress that popped out from the dark color. The brown waves on a creamy background print long dress were also part of a refreshing piece. Ms. Coon pulled off the presentation with strong geometric designs. An example would be a top made with chiffon and leather wore with a high waisted wool pants showed her talents in the use of lines. Overall her collection was playful and tasteful with strong structures. Continue reading “Mandy Coon – Fall 2011”

Rachel Antonoff – Fall 2011

The clothing of Rachel Antonoff is fun but it’s not frilly. It works to well because Ms. Antonoff chooses well. From fabrics and fit to prints and details this is the work of a serious designer. Many in fashion assume that the spirit of her clothes is inspired by the past. What they miss is the timelessness of the girl who buys her clothes, and consequently the clothes themselves.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Adrianna Favero

“You look like an angel, walk like an angel, talk like an angel, but I got wise. You’re the devil in disguise.”

Designer Rachel Antonoff’s clothes seem innocent enough. Full of clever details and fun fabrics. Her prints and colors are always playful and her cuts are easy and free. There’s a youthful exuberance about her collections that always puts her clients in a good mood when they wear her designs. Even the theater surrounding the presentation of her Fall 2011 offering was seeming wholesome fun. A 1950s-era school dance, complete with an all-girl rock band and models portraying the various archetypes of high school life. But wait, in the midst of this pleasant tableau, why is that girl spiking the punch with a flask? Why are there a pack of girls on the stands with the eyes of hungry wolves? Why did the one girl bring a cat? Is this Sunnydale? It all fits with a Rachel Antonoff collection and more importantly with her client. Her collections are often described as retro or retro-inspired, but she told me she doesn’t understand that at all. It’s likely because of who she designs for. The clothing of Rachel Antonoff is fun but it’s not frilly. It works to well because Ms. Antonoff chooses well. From fabrics and fit to prints and details this is the work of a serious designer. Many in fashion assume that the spirit of her clothes is inspired by the past. What they miss is the timelessness of the girl who buys her clothes, and consequently the clothes themselves. The Rachel Antonoff Fall 2011 collection continues the development of this fascinating and serious young talent. Continue reading “Rachel Antonoff – Fall 2011”

Logan Neitzel – Fall 2011

story by Dana Varon
photos by Aeric Meredith-Goujon

Logan Neizel is known for a lot of things; his Project Runway stint, his boyish good looks, his rock and roll semblance– well, he is all of that, but has moved on way past his Project Runway days, though he feels it was where he was supposed to be then. Now he shows what he can do with leather showcasing neck and wrist cuffs with long, hanging fringes, bandeau, little mini skirts solo and also with attached swatches of long, flowing black or red chiffon, He additionally adds a pop of color with red pieces of leather patches on black leggings (available in all black too) and a red/black stringy yarn type throw-over. Neitzel told me of his influence when he lived in Seattle seeing music and listening to rock which seems to creep into his designs in a modern way and garner his attitude towards leather– which he feels should become your own like an old hole-y rock tee that just gets better and better with wear. So true. This louche look is evident in his pieces, including his own waist-dangling fox-tail. It was also evident in the punk soundtrack backstage and incense infused air out front. These are pieces anyone can pick up to add their own edge – no matter what they’re wearing. Continue reading “Logan Neitzel – Fall 2011”

Academy of Art University – Fall 2011

For 10 seasons the San Francisco art school has been bringing its graduate students to New York Fashion Week for their chance to shine. This season there were seven collections showcased by different designers, all with distinct and diverse approaches.

story by Kerry Kong
photos by Adrianna Favero

Thinking of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, which designer names pop up in your mind? DKNY? Michael Kors? Ralph Lauren? How about Academy of Art University? For 10 seasons the San Francisco art school has been bringing its graduate students to New York Fashion Week for their chance to shine. This season there were seven collections showcased by different designers, all with distinct and diverse approaches. Continue reading “Academy of Art University – Fall 2011”

Designer Dossier: Zoe Twitt

Australian-born but certainly a child of the world, 26 year-old fashion designer Zoe Twitt has been garnering a steadily growing number of eyes for her designs each season.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Adrianna Favero

Australian-born but certainly a child of the world, 26 year-old fashion designer Zoe Twitt has been garnering a steadily growing number of eyes for her designs each season. What draws us to Zoe, even though it is so early in her career, is difficult to pin down. It’s partially because the leap in sophistication of concept and execution between her Fall 2010 and her Spring 2011 collections was so great, but that’s not entirely it. She designs what she’s feeling at the time. Her work mirrors her with an intimate closeness that creates a vulnerability to her as a designer that makes her very engaging. This also makes her collections vary greatly from season to season, which is a very special kind of fashion daring, but perhaps sound because the core of each collection is Zoe herself. The collection you see in this shoot is from a romantic young woman touched by romance. It is an artistic expression of her heart and mind. Zoe has a powerful combination of imagination and technical skills.  She does all of the unique touches and shows the kind of quality workmanship that makes her a designer to be taken seriously. Continue reading “Designer Dossier: Zoe Twitt”

Jolibe – Fall 2011

The First Lady wore a Jolibe piece on her Christmas vacation and it created a nice buzz for the brand. However, it is the couple’s imagination, talent and savvy that will most certainly carry Jolibe into the future of American fashion.

Writer: Seth Friedermann
Photographer: Adrianna Favero

Joel Diaz and Christina La Pens’ Fall 2011 collection continued the striking new direction they forged last season. While they continue to maintain their trademark of manipulating fabric through imaginative construction and technique into unique and stunning shapes, they now do so in garments that are very easy to wear and integrate into your existing wardrobe. The challenge of the marketplace is sometimes very good for designers. It doesn’t always force them into some sort of hackneyed compromise, designers can use their imagination to re-envision how they express their own core design principles while still maintaining integrity and finding expressions that are retail-friendly, yet still very much their own. Continue reading “Jolibe – Fall 2011”

Katie Ermilio – Fall 2011

Modern day elegance that is ladylike but girly is hard to master. When you are the granddaughter of Grace Kelly’s clothier, it might be a little bit easier.

story by Dana Varon
photos by Aeric Meredith-Goujon

Modern day elegance that is ladylike but girly is hard to master. When you are the granddaughter of Grace Kelly’s clothier, it might be a little bit easier. Continue reading “Katie Ermilio – Fall 2011”

Mimi Plange – Fall 2011

Hailing from Rancho Cucamonga California designer Mimi Plange has all of the tools to create a very strong career.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Freda Henry

It is unfair to use the same standards when discussing a designer in her fifth season that you will use in her tenth. That said, fashion has a step learning curve and you need to mature very quickly as a designer to stay in business. Hailing from Rancho Cucamonga California designer Mimi Plange has all of the tools to create a very strong career. She understands fit, fabric, and finish very well. She creates interesting concepts and uses clever construction techniques to carry her inspiration and message into the garments. Continue reading “Mimi Plange – Fall 2011”

Jolibe – Spring 2011

It is tempting to describe Jolibe as a minimalist label, but the description is not wholly accurate.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Adrianna Favero

There are multiple paths to success as a fashion designer. Some attend schools and gain employment with established designers or design houses. Others sew at home and sell their collections at flea markets, online, and make appointments with boutiques to present their work. Still others mix those business models together. Then there is the curious case of  the label Jolibe. Jolibe is comprised of designer Joel Diaz and designer/creative director Christina La Pens. Mr. Diaz first attended design school in his native country of the Dominican Republic before moving on to Parsons here in New York City. He worked for Helmut Lang for five years and freelanced for major labels before launching Jolibe in 2007. To visit the label’s website is to be sent to a sparse Blogspot page. There are pictures of current and past collections, minimal biographical information, and sales and press contact addresses… that’s it. No press clippings, no lists of stores where you can find the brand, no flashy videos or shots of celebrities (Natalie Portman is a major fan, but you’d never know it from the site). This “Margielaistic” approach to promotion and marketing can be risky, but with the label’s recent inclusion in the C.F.D.A Incubator, exposure should no longer be a problem. It might appear as if the duo are anti-publicity, but they’re not. Nor is it some sort of cool affectation calculated to attract by appearing devil may care. Ultimately it’s just not what they’re focused on. What they’re focused on is creating some of the most unique and beautiful clothing you’ve ever seen. Continue reading “Jolibe – Spring 2011”