new york – Page 3

Douglas Hannant – Fall 2011

Created for a true lady in the classic Park Avenue sense, there is no insouciant wear. This muse is impeccably put together.

story by Dana Varon
photos by Ned & Aya Rosen

The Plaza Hotel is the perfect place for designer Douglas Hannant to hold his show, not only because he has his first stand-alone boutique there but because his clothes are filled with the luxurious fabrics, cuts and adornments expected by and of the women who stay there. After assistant window dressing at Barney’s, it is said he re-found the mannequin of his dreams who he had been looking for and now she lives at his boutique too. Perhaps, that is why his pieces seem to drape so perfectly and it is definitely why his models had dewy, glowy mannequin skin and black banged bobbed wigs. He told me so when I said they looked like one. He also told me how he is pleased with this collection’s range of texture, which is very important to him, but in a subtle, understated way.

Created for a true lady in the classic Park Avenue sense, there is no insouciant wear. This muse is impeccably put together. From his lady in her white georgette blouse and black wool crepe wide pants to his crepe tan spiral seam strapless dress, this persona is going somewhere. Rust colors in a wool dress and mohair wrap jacket, black wool skirts with slits and leather tied belts were among the more edgy. Then there was the perfect pencil skirt. But besides the many luxe pieces made of the like of tulle overlays, glazed tweed, velvet, fil coupe and point d’esprit sleeves there are teal and black mermaid gowns, beaded back harnesses and full organza petals. Understated, no. Simply beautiful, yes. Continue reading “Douglas Hannant – Fall 2011”

Jonathan Simkhai – Fall 2011

Jonathan Simkhai’s Fall 2011 collection was a solid step forward in cementing his identity as the premier New York designer whose specialty is masculine tailoring.

story by Seth Friedermann
reporting by Kerry Kong
photos by Aeric Meredith Goujon

Jonathan Simkhai’s Fall 2011 collection was a solid step forward in cementing his identity as the premier New York designer whose specialty is masculine tailoring. Continue reading “Jonathan Simkhai – Fall 2011”

Bibhu Mohapatra – Fall 2011

Bibhu Mohapatra’s Fall 2011 collection presentation was a terrific example of his continuing exploration of his strong signature of layers and revelations.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Freda Henry

Bibhu Mohapatra’s Fall 2011 collection presentation was a terrific example of his continuing exploration of his strong signature of layers and revelations. Continue reading “Bibhu Mohapatra – Fall 2011”

Odilon by Stacey Clark – Fall 2011

Clark feels this is one of her most mature shows, which in turn shows her growth.

story by Dana Varon
photos by Aeric Meredith Goujon

LA based Stacey Clark and her assistant designer Harold Kuhn are cool and they are young. Budding into the scene with their Odilon Fall 2011 collection, their third, Clark feels this is one of her most mature shows, which in turn shows her growth. Fittingly, the Greek goddess Persephone, who has a classic story of growing, inspired it. Starting as a young, naïve girl, she got taken by Hades, got her heart broken, found out that the world is not such a wonderful place, eventually evolving into a jaded, sad, and unwilling goddess of the underworld. But a bit of her innocence remained. The designer wanted this line to reflect that journey, but with the added element of psychedelic rock and roll, like an acid trip via Sergeant Pepper’s, circa 1970. Continue reading “Odilon by Stacey Clark – Fall 2011”

Jen Kao – Fall 2011

On your next night out if you’re going to leave an impression regardless by what you choose to wear, wouldn’t it be lovely to be a bird of paradise as created by the talented new designer Jen Kao?

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Freda Henry

All fashion is costume. Even if you try to not make a statement and put no directed thought into what you wear, you’ll end up expressing something about yourself. Call it compulsive communication, it just goes with being human. Of course it goes without saying that you ought to put thought into what you communicate through your clothes, even if it is only to convey something like professionalism. Designers think about what they want you to wear, and great designers think a great deal and give you an array every season with which to make powerful statements. Jen Kao’s Fall 2011 collection gives you the ability to speak volumes. From the orange and yellow glowing faux lava that lined the upstage runway, to her lush dreamscape palette of golds, purples, reds, and blues, the color drenched show cast quite the spell over the packed studio at Lincoln Center. Continue reading “Jen Kao – Fall 2011”

Risto Bimbiloski – Fall 2011

Elegance and fun mix themselves here just like it is when trying on mom’s more sophisticated pieces and making them your own.

story by Dana Varon
photos by Ned & Aya Rosen

As described in his forward, Risto Bimbiloski’s Fall 2011 collection draws upon rebellious youth party days going through mom’s sophisticated closet on her way into the city and maybe even living in the suburban woods where the deer, and baby deer, are along with their horns and back uptown again. At least that’s how I see it, but it could be almost any city.

Elegance and fun mix themselves here just like it is when trying on mom’s more sophisticated pieces and making them your own. Beautiful sumptuous suits, blouses and dresses in creamy one toned buttermilk’s and Bambi and horn prints frolic alone and with each other. The Bambi print so reminiscent of the baby deer that you can see it’s underbelly and also spotted details especially on the coinciding silky pant and blouse suit. Buttery tan wool and silk robe like long coats and wide leg pants with black leather bands and drawstrings are adult with edge. Double sided braids are a little refined and a little radical. Perfectly oversized sweaters with strips of color on the bodice and on oversized wrist puffed sleeves hint a visit into dad’s closet too but with more luxurious fabric, cut and color play. Takes on windbreakers and jumpers take you back to teen years. Shiny gold ear sized pieces garner an attention to flash with fur-paneled shoes, a change from last season’s plexiglas. Continue reading “Risto Bimbiloski – Fall 2011”

RAD by Rad Hourani – Fall 2011

Hourani’s Fall 2011 collection plays with the option of enabling one to shape their own world on their body. Known for extending beyond traditional limits, he pushes them to create new barrier breaking ideas. His clothing offers another way to look at fashion and how it is worn. This season offers even more shapes and a bit more looseness, through still impeccable and interesting cuts.

story by Dana Varon
phots by Ned & Aya Rosen

Rad Hourani is rad. He considers himself an artist, not just of one craft, but of many, which is evident not only in his clothing designs but his photos, videos, exhibits and other projects. His entity is clearly a multi-sensory experience of sight, touch, sound and smell. Often experimenting with gender, shapes, and form in his designs, he has stated, “I like the idea of a world where we can live and shape ourselves, only by observing, each on our own.” Continue reading “RAD by Rad Hourani – Fall 2011”

Zang Toi – Fall 2011

New York audiences rarely clap during runway events, let alone “ooh” and “ah,” but those sounds could be heard repeatedly throughout Zang Toi’s Fall 2011 show, starting with the first look down the runway, a floor-length Loro Piana wool cape with fox collar, topping bootleg pants and a cashmere and silk ribbed turtleneck – all in shades of camel. That was one of 33 mostly monotone combinations in nude, camel, charcoal and black, a few sparked with emerald. Toi collared some daywear pieces with mink or fox and embellished some eveningwear with beads and crystals. All – even the three menswear ensembles — emanated glamour and elegance, adjectives which Toi calls his signature look.

story by Kari Jensen
photos by Freda Henry

Carlos Miele – Fall 2011

A runway full of gorgeous gowns and sexy separates. Mr. Miele works a design concept as well as any designer in fashion today.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Freda Henry

What’s the winter like in Rio? Some fashion designers from tropical climes often have a difficult time understanding a fall-winter wardrobe. The technical demands of garments for Boston Common in late January must seem very alien at first to a son of a sun drenched country like Brazil. However, Carlos Miele has been showing internationally for ten years and lives in the Chelsea neighborhood in New York City, so he now completely comprehends the way to keep a brittle Battery Park breeze from getting in the way of the joy of wearing his his glamorous gowns. And Mr. Miele does understand that most of his red carpet stunners are only out of the limo for a few seconds before they glide into an A-list party while a wall of flashes fire in any event. To be sure there were nods to the inhospitable nature of a serious winter in his fall 2011 collection, but overall it was classic Carlos Miele, as a runway full of gorgeous gowns and sexy separates. Continue reading “Carlos Miele – Fall 2011”

Sachin + Babi – Fall 2011

The husband and wife design duo, Sachin + Babi Ahluwalia, combined a fascination for vintage Harley Davidson motorbikes with a desire for luxe fabrics and leather accents for their Fall 2011 collection. Renowned for their textural and innovative ready to wear, accessories, and ethnic inspired home- furnishings, they elegantly created a dynamic tension with a gritty twist.

story by Carmella Bella McDonald
photos by Freda Henry