{"id":461,"date":"2009-07-03T00:32:18","date_gmt":"2009-07-03T04:32:18","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.modacycle.com\/?p=461"},"modified":"2009-10-11T09:28:44","modified_gmt":"2009-10-11T13:28:44","slug":"disheartening-day-one-for-berlin-fashion-week","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/2009\/07\/03\/disheartening-day-one-for-berlin-fashion-week\/","title":{"rendered":"Disheartening Day One for Berlin Fashion Week"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>reportage by Boris Marberg<br \/>\nphotos by Boris Marberg, Alexander Palacios, and Wolfgang W\u00f6hrle<\/p>\n<p>Berlin Fashion Week is only a few seasons old, and the industry there is still finding its global voice and international footing. Each year they seem to get better, but the first day of presentations for the Spring-Summer 2010 collections proved very disheartening for those of us hoping this will be the season where Berlin became relevant in the global fashion scene. The only coherent collection on the Berlin runway for Day One was by <a href=\"http:\/\/www.gant.com\/\" target=\"_blank\">GANT<\/a>, a US sportswear company (see the runway show video on their <a href=\"http:\/\/www.gant.com\/\" target=\"_blank\">web site<\/a>).<!--more--><\/p>\n<p>Here are some of the thoughts our lead photographer in the tents there has relayed in short text messages, along with images from the shows:<\/p>\n<p style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.schumacher.de\/\" target=\"_blank\">Schumacher<\/a>, first show, opened and closed by international top model <a href=\"http:\/\/forums.thefashionspot.com\/f52\/toni-garrn-55272.html\" target=\"_blank\">Toni Garrn<\/a>. Nice bags, interesting shoes, fine fabrics with lots of shimmering metallic, but overall an uninspiring kick-off for the week.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-470\" title=\"SCHUMACHER_TONY_GARRN\" src=\"https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/07\/SCHUMACHER_TONY_GARRN.jpg\" alt=\"SCHUMACHER_TONY_GARRN\" width=\"550\" height=\"550\" srcset=\"https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/07\/SCHUMACHER_TONY_GARRN.jpg 550w, https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/07\/SCHUMACHER_TONY_GARRN-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/07\/SCHUMACHER_TONY_GARRN-300x300.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 550px) 85vw, 550px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-467\" title=\"SCHUMACHER_1\" src=\"https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/07\/SCHUMACHER_1.jpg\" alt=\"SCHUMACHER_1\" width=\"550\" height=\"913\" srcset=\"https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/07\/SCHUMACHER_1.jpg 550w, https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/07\/SCHUMACHER_1-180x300.jpg 180w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 550px) 85vw, 550px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-469\" title=\"SCHUMACHER_2\" src=\"https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/07\/SCHUMACHER_2.jpg\" alt=\"SCHUMACHER_2\" width=\"550\" height=\"516\" srcset=\"https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/07\/SCHUMACHER_2.jpg 550w, https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/07\/SCHUMACHER_2-300x281.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 550px) 85vw, 550px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-468\" title=\"SCHUMACHER_3\" src=\"https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/07\/SCHUMACHER_3.jpg\" alt=\"SCHUMACHER_3\" width=\"550\" height=\"367\" srcset=\"https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/07\/SCHUMACHER_3.jpg 550w, https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/07\/SCHUMACHER_3-300x200.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 550px) 85vw, 550px\" \/><\/p>\n<p style=\"padding-left: 30px;\">These photos are from backstage at <a href=\"http:\/\/www.lacetmel.com\/\" target=\"_blank\">Lac et Mel<\/a>. Two Germany&#8217;s Next Top Model (GNTM) contestants walked, Sara Nuru and Lena Gerke. A boring show with screwed up music. More celebrities than buyers. It looks a bit like a Greek goddess style, with raw jewelery, metallic woven fabrics, and not so colorful. Nice hair styling and tall models, but they did not walk very well.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-471\" title=\"GreekGoddesStyles\" src=\"https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/07\/GreekGoddesStyles.jpg\" alt=\"GreekGoddesStyles\" width=\"550\" height=\"497\" srcset=\"https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/07\/GreekGoddesStyles.jpg 550w, https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/07\/GreekGoddesStyles-300x271.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 550px) 85vw, 550px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-472\" title=\"HAIRDOS\" src=\"https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/07\/HAIRDOS.jpg\" alt=\"HAIRDOS\" width=\"550\" height=\"413\" srcset=\"https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/07\/HAIRDOS.jpg 550w, https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/07\/HAIRDOS-300x225.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 550px) 85vw, 550px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-473\" title=\"LenaGerke_SaraNuru\" src=\"https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/07\/LenaGerke_SaraNuru.jpg\" alt=\"LenaGerke_SaraNuru\" width=\"550\" height=\"275\" srcset=\"https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/07\/LenaGerke_SaraNuru.jpg 550w, https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/07\/LenaGerke_SaraNuru-300x150.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 550px) 85vw, 550px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-474\" title=\"LenaGerke_SaraNuru2\" src=\"https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/07\/LenaGerke_SaraNuru2.jpg\" alt=\"LenaGerke_SaraNuru2\" width=\"500\" height=\"578\" srcset=\"https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/07\/LenaGerke_SaraNuru2.jpg 500w, https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/07\/LenaGerke_SaraNuru2-259x300.jpg 259w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 500px) 85vw, 500px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-475\" title=\"TheDesigner\" src=\"https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/07\/TheDesigner.jpg\" alt=\"TheDesigner\" width=\"550\" height=\"307\" srcset=\"https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/07\/TheDesigner.jpg 550w, https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/07\/TheDesigner-300x167.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 550px) 85vw, 550px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><!--nextpage--><\/p>\n<p style=\"padding-left: 30px;\">Argentinian top label <a href=\"http:\/\/www.pabloramirez.com.ar\" target=\"_blank\">Ram\u00edrez<\/a>, from award winning designer Pablo Ram\u00edrez, showed in tandem with the South African <a href=\"http:\/\/www.blackcoffee.co.za\/\" target=\"_blank\">Black Coffee<\/a> brand, designed by Jacques van der Watt and Dani\u00e7a Lepen. There has been a lot of PR buzz about this show, but on the day there was no delivery the spin damagers could doctor. Lots of media attention had been swirling, pushing a message of how great a show it would be, but we just didn&#8217;t see anything remarkable come down the runway from either party. There seems to have been more work put into the publicity than was spent in delivering a unique and interesting new collections.<\/p>\n<p style=\"padding-left: 30px; text-align: center;\">Ram\u00edrez&#8230;<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-477\" title=\"RAMIREZ_2\" src=\"https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/07\/RAMIREZ_2.jpg\" alt=\"RAMIREZ_2\" width=\"550\" height=\"367\" srcset=\"https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/07\/RAMIREZ_2.jpg 550w, https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/07\/RAMIREZ_2-300x200.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 550px) 85vw, 550px\" \/><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-476\" title=\"RAMIREZ_1\" src=\"https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/07\/RAMIREZ_1.jpg\" alt=\"RAMIREZ_1\" width=\"550\" height=\"379\" srcset=\"https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/07\/RAMIREZ_1.jpg 550w, https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/07\/RAMIREZ_1-300x206.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 550px) 85vw, 550px\" \/><br \/>\nBlack Coffee&#8230;<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-487\" title=\"BlackCoffee3\" src=\"https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/07\/BlackCoffee3.jpg\" alt=\"BlackCoffee3\" width=\"550\" height=\"413\" srcset=\"https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/07\/BlackCoffee3.jpg 550w, https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/07\/BlackCoffee3-300x225.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 550px) 85vw, 550px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-478\" title=\"BlackCoffee1\" src=\"https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/07\/BlackCoffee1.jpg\" alt=\"BlackCoffee1\" width=\"550\" height=\"501\" srcset=\"https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/07\/BlackCoffee1.jpg 550w, https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/07\/BlackCoffee1-300x273.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 550px) 85vw, 550px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-479\" title=\"BlackCoffee2\" src=\"https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/07\/BlackCoffee2.jpg\" alt=\"BlackCoffee2\" width=\"550\" height=\"513\" srcset=\"https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/07\/BlackCoffee2.jpg 550w, https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/07\/BlackCoffee2-300x279.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 550px) 85vw, 550px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-480\" title=\"BlackCoffee\" src=\"https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/07\/BlackCoffee.jpg\" alt=\"BlackCoffee\" width=\"550\" height=\"338\" srcset=\"https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/07\/BlackCoffee.jpg 550w, https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/07\/BlackCoffee-300x184.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 550px) 85vw, 550px\" \/><\/p>\n<p style=\"padding-left: 30px;\"><a href=\"http:\/\/www.patrickmohr.net\/\" target=\"_blank\">Patrick Mohr&#8217;s<\/a> show was just a freak show, and not in the lovable Heatherette way. It seems clear, winning several fashion awards might be a sign of someone who is creative, but it is not a guarantee that you will see great\u00a0 fashion in their future shows. What came down the runway looked like dirty dwarfs parading out of a dungeon. The deep slow music and ridiculously slow pace at which the models walked probably would have been interesting in a theater as a modern dance performance, but it added nothing to the presentation of the drab and inherently tired-looking garments. The show itself was visually entertaining, but aside from a few pairs of shoes the individual garments fell far short. Wasn&#8217;t the Bauhaus School founded in Germany? When did German designers forget that form should follow function? Who on earth will buy and wear this stuff?<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-481\" title=\"Dwarft\" src=\"https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/07\/Dwarft.jpg\" alt=\"Dwarft\" width=\"550\" height=\"415\" srcset=\"https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/07\/Dwarft.jpg 550w, https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/07\/Dwarft-300x226.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 550px) 85vw, 550px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-482\" title=\"SHOES\" src=\"https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/07\/SHOES.jpg\" alt=\"SHOES\" width=\"550\" height=\"620\" srcset=\"https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/07\/SHOES.jpg 550w, https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/07\/SHOES-266x300.jpg 266w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 550px) 85vw, 550px\" \/><\/p>\n<p style=\"padding-left: 30px;\">The last show we covered on the first day was the <a href=\"http:\/\/www.design.udk-berlin.de\/\" target=\"_blank\">UdK<\/a> student show, 150 outfits from Universit\u00e4t der K\u00fcnste&#8217;s young designers. Some competent work, but no wow factor. No student revolution today, unfortunately.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-483\" title=\"UDK1\" src=\"https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/07\/UDK1.jpg\" alt=\"UDK1\" width=\"550\" height=\"408\" srcset=\"https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/07\/UDK1.jpg 550w, https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/07\/UDK1-300x222.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 550px) 85vw, 550px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-484\" title=\"UDK2\" src=\"https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/07\/UDK2.jpg\" alt=\"UDK2\" width=\"550\" height=\"513\" srcset=\"https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/07\/UDK2.jpg 550w, https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/07\/UDK2-300x279.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 550px) 85vw, 550px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-485\" title=\"UDK3\" src=\"https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/07\/UDK3.jpg\" alt=\"UDK3\" width=\"550\" height=\"513\" srcset=\"https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/07\/UDK3.jpg 550w, https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/07\/UDK3-300x279.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 550px) 85vw, 550px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-486\" title=\"UDK4\" src=\"https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/07\/UDK4.jpg\" alt=\"UDK4\" width=\"550\" height=\"513\" srcset=\"https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/07\/UDK4.jpg 550w, https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-content\/uploads\/2009\/07\/UDK4-300x279.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 550px) 85vw, 550px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Ultimately, the first day of Berlin Fashion Week was thoroughly disappointing from many angles. The designers seem to be playing at fashion, rather than being fashion. We can only hope it picks up at a higher level tomorrow.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Berlin Fashion Week is only a few seasons old, and the industry there is still finding its global voice and international footing. Each year they seem to get better, but the first day of presentations for the Spring-Summer 2010 collections proved very disheartening for those of us hoping this will be the season where Berlin became relevant in the global fashion scene.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":7798,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_exactmetrics_skip_tracking":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_active":false,"_exactmetrics_sitenote_note":"","_exactmetrics_sitenote_category":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[93,104,110,108,103,109,86],"class_list":["post-461","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-uncategorized","tag-berlin","tag-black-coffee","tag-lac-et-mel","tag-patrick-mohr","tag-ramirez","tag-schumacher","tag-spring-2010"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/461","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=461"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/461\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/7798"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=461"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=461"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/modacycle.com\/old_modacycle_jan_2016\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=461"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}