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story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Aeric Meredith-Goujon
Mackage designers Eran Elfassy and Elisa Dahan love structure and that ardour has served them well as the brand has expanded strongly and successfully into ready-to-wear over the past few seasons. The lighter fabrics and looser fits of a wardrobe for spring and summer can pose a strong challenge to that type of designer, especially when you have a background in designing outerwear which tends to be very constructed. Striking the balance between the needs of a warm weather wardrobe and a designer’s desire to dictate how fabric moves can be tricky, Elfassy and Dahan haven’t done much of this before, so the Spring 2012 collection was very interesting to see for long-time admirers.
This season’s collection was less formally constructed than their Fall 2011 line. The designs still resonated with an urban sophistication communicated through clever use of design elements, but there was more ease of movement and shorter lengths, befitting warmer days and hotter nights. Some highlights included a nice variety in experimentation with pleating, from loose waves to tight triangular folds.
Many looks were topped with cropped leather jackets in very modern cuts and treatments, again increasing the feel of city toughness. As always, the clothes were full of smart tailoring details drawn from many fashion sources. Of particular interest was the duo’s work at the waist. Mackage always creates dramatic structures at and around a woman’s waistline, and no departure here. Whether it was through full yokes, darts, or just the cut, it was all very striking and attractive. A lovely black leather sweetheart cut top was also very alluring and the styling showed it was surprisingly versatile. The only aspect that left me wanting was the palette. The collection was whites, greys, tans, and blacks. After their deep rich jewel tones from the Fall collection, I was hoping for similar boldness from this season. A minor complaint really, and overall an extremely solid effort from a brand that gets expanded and improved season after season.
