Bora Aksu – Fall 2010 – London

One of the decisions that often needs to be made when evaluating fashion is, is what is being seen a gimmick or is it actually working in the design, helping it to achieve the look and feel that the designer was attempting to achieve? This often occurs with seemingly extraneous elements, ribbons, edging, adornments, or conspicuous work with extra fabric. Sure it catches the eye, but does it help the design? Bora Asku’s Fall 2010 collection forced viewers to make that determination again and again.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Boris Marberg
photo editing by Freda Henry

One of the decisions that often needs to be made when evaluating fashion is, is what is being seen a gimmick or is it actually working in the design, helping it to achieve the look and feel that the designer was attempting to achieve? This often occurs with seemingly extraneous elements, ribbons, edging, adornments, or conspicuous work with extra fabric. Sure it catches the eye, but does it help the design?  Bora Asku’s Fall 2010 collection forced viewers to make that determination again and again. Continue reading “Bora Aksu – Fall 2010 – London”

Sado – Fall 2010 – London

Carlotta Gherzi’s aesthetic is certainly comprised of modern elements. Her cuts, tailoring, and treatments are non traditional and uncommon. Yet her looks never appear ludicrous nor are they of the type that require a dresser to help you wear them.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Freda Henry

Carlotta Gherzi’s aesthetic is certainly comprised of modern elements. Her cuts, tailoring, and treatments are non traditional and uncommon. Yet her looks never appear ludicrous nor are they of the type that require a dresser to help you wear them. Continue reading “Sado – Fall 2010 – London”

Doii Paris – Fall 2010 – London

Doii’s love is obviously for prints and patterns, but it’s her romantic and fantastical color palette, and her ability to use great amounts of softly contrasting colors without making her work look busy or garish, that takes those prints and patterns to the level of art.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Freda Henry

The fashion media has a perverse sense of time. They will label a designer or label as “emerging” or a “bright young star” when they’ve been visible on a national or international level for many seasons. Doii Lee has been a known commodity in many circles since she left Kenzo in 2005 to pursue her own label. The reason her designs will catch your eye is a simple but scarce ingredient; her clothes don’t look like anybody else’s. Continue reading “Doii Paris – Fall 2010 – London”

Horace – Esprit de Corps – Fall 2010 – London

A combination of many of the concepts and constructions that have become part of the British fashion scene in the past two decades.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Freda Henry

Inside of any artistic movement there comes a time where what was once “futuristic” shifts to ”modern” or the even more diluted “contemporary.” This often causes the artist to be viewed as less “visionary” or “innovative” which is insipid thinking because the artist is simply being who they’ve always been and their art is continuing to evolve organically. The fashions that have been coming out of England for the past 15 to 20 years have been amongst the most inventive and daring on Earth. Eventually though the techniques and treatments that create the styles become entrenched and the pace of innovation cools. Continue reading “Horace – Esprit de Corps – Fall 2010 – London”

Caroline Charles – Fall 2010 – London

Caroline Charles is in many ways very much a designer with her roots in the British “mod” movement of the mid 60s . Yet, as Britain has become increasingly culturally diverse, so has Mrs.Charles. Her resulting Fall 2010 collection is a rich tapestry that represents the fashion heritage of many cultures that now call England home.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Wolfgang Wöhrle and Freda Henry
photo editing by Freda Henry

Caroline Charles is in many ways very much a designer with her roots in the British “mod” movement of the mid 60s . Yet, as Britain has become increasingly culturally diverse, so has Mrs.Charles. Her resulting Fall 2010 collection is a rich tapestry that represents the fashion heritage of many cultures that now call England home. Continue reading “Caroline Charles – Fall 2010 – London”

Michael Angel – Fall 2010 – New York

Michael Angel’s love of prints was on display in the Fall 2010 collection show.

story by Charles Beckwith
photos by Adrianna Favero
video by Stephen Bodi
interview by Brandon Ruckdashel

Michael Angel’s love of prints was on display in the Fall 2010 collection show. Brandon interviewed the designer back stage just before it kicked off…

Continue reading “Michael Angel – Fall 2010 – New York”

Victor de Souza – Fall 2010 – New York

This was definitely a fashion-as-art sort of collection, with sufficient attention to wearability, and he seems to have a lot of buzz around the brand to a point where it might just be sustainable commercially, despite the unorthadoxed presentation style.

story by Joseph Davis and Charles Beckwith
photos by Tal Shpantzer and Charles Beckwith
edited by Alexandra Dawes

For Fall 2010, de Souza took his ideal woman and gave her an other-worldy makeover in a chic Greenwich Village Moroccan restaurant. His models drifted through the space in alien-inspired makeup, making them appear to have landed in New York City for fashion week from points far further and abroad than St. Petersburg and Rio.

Continue reading “Victor de Souza – Fall 2010 – New York”

Simon Spurr – Fall 2010 – New York

Is the London meets New York aesthetic a breath of fresh air to the menswear scene here in New York?

story by Michael Fragoso
photos by Martin Bielecki

Saville Row is in full swing with slim fitting trousers, big, logo filled bags, and a double-breasted aesthetic of the all together urban and tailored Simon Spurr Fall 2010 collection.

Continue reading “Simon Spurr – Fall 2010 – New York”

Nary Manivong – Fall 2010 – New York

Nary Manivong’s Fall 2010 collection continues his use of minimalist construction, this season with influences mainly from the 40s and 80s. His silhouettes are reminiscent of the 40s, with slim flattering feminine lines.

story by Brandon Ruckdashel
photos by John Lamparski

Nary Manivong’s Fall 2010 collection continues his use of minimalist construction, this season with influences mainly from the 40s and 80s. His silhouettes are reminiscent of the 40s, with slim flattering feminine lines. This choice helps to add a classical and more romantic touch, and balances his 80s references, which are mostly visible in the use of asymmetrical construction, abstract floral prints, and teased up-do hair. Continue reading “Nary Manivong – Fall 2010 – New York”

Mik Cire – Fall 2010 – New York

Check out the video interview captured back stage at the show with the designer, featuring his innovative “slingshot” construction.

photos and interview by Sandy Ramirez

Mik Cire (\ˈmi-‘k\ \ˈsī(-ə)r\) Fall 2010 collection was spawned from Eric Kim’s mental realm of trench warfare and fitted biker jackets. Check out the video interview captured back stage at the show with the designer, featuring his innovative “slingshot” construction. Continue reading “Mik Cire – Fall 2010 – New York”