Wes Gordon – Spring to Fall

Looking all of seventeen in a navy blazer, and blessed with the polite gentility of his southern upbringing, the Central Saint Martin’s graduate, Wes Gordon greeted each and every one of his women clients as if they were guests at his front door. I’m very certain he knows how to foxtrot. But clearly, what he’s best at is designing stunningly lovely clothes for those refined and privileged ladies. In a presentation reminiscent of the costume shows at the Metropolitan Museum, models stood still as mannequins on stark white platforms framed by a gauzy proscenium. Occasionally, owing to their being human and possibly in need of refreshment, they were fed little candies, which they nibbled discreetly, or they were brought water, which they sipped pristinely through bendy straws.

story by Lisa Radano
photos by Bonnie Rodríguez

Looking all of seventeen in a navy blazer, and blessed with the polite gentility of his southern upbringing, the Central Saint Martin’s graduate, Wes Gordon greeted each and every one of his women clients as if they were guests at his front door. I’m very certain he knows how to foxtrot. But clearly, what he’s best at is designing stunningly lovely clothes for those refined and privileged ladies. In a presentation reminiscent of the costume shows at the Metropolitan Museum, models stood still as mannequins on stark white platforms framed by a gauzy proscenium. Occasionally, owing to their being human and possibly in need of refreshment, they were fed little candies, which they nibbled discreetly, or they were brought water, which they sipped pristinely through bendy straws. Continue reading “Wes Gordon – Spring to Fall”

Erin Barr – Did Marilyn Monroe Meet Frank Stella?

Did Frank Stella ever meet Maryiln Monroe? Did they ever find one another across a crowded party in some smoky Greenwich Village walk-up? Did they hang out and trade ideas or have a romantic but intellectual rendez vous? These are the questions Erin Barr poses in this smart, well-edited Spring 2012 collection, her third season.

story by Lisa Radano
photos by Charles Beckwith

Did Frank Stella ever meet Marilyn Monroe? Did they ever find one another across a crowded party in some smoky Greenwich Village walk-up? Did they hang out and trade ideas or have a romantic but intellectual rendez vous? These are the questions Erin Barr poses in this smart, well-edited Spring 2012 collection, her third season. Continue reading “Erin Barr – Did Marilyn Monroe Meet Frank Stella?”

Sheena Trivedi – Crossing Borders

The idea of a “world culture” has for along time seemed like a nice idea smacking of a naive optimism. But in fashion, as in food and music, the constant exposure to other cultures is creating fascinating fusion. Look no further than designer Sheena Trivedi and her debut collection as proof. Sheena’s designs are steeped in traditional Indian embroidery and construction techniques, but she’s given every piece a great bit of aggressive American swagger. This is not surprising for a young woman who is a mix of New Delhi & Pittsburgh. Can you get more cross-cultural than that?

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Rachel Reneé

http://www.sheenatrivedi.com/

The idea of a “world culture” has for along time seemed like a nice idea smacking of a naive optimism. But in fashion, as in food and music, the constant exposure to other cultures is creating fascinating fusion. Look no further than designer Sheena Trivedi and her debut collection as proof. Sheena’s designs are steeped in traditional Indian embroidery and construction techniques, but she’s given every piece a great bit of aggressive American swagger. This is not surprising for a young woman who is a mix of New Delhi & Pittsburgh. Can you get more cross-cultural than that? Continue reading “Sheena Trivedi – Crossing Borders”

Abigail Stewart – Fall 2012 – Fair Bones

At her first show, designer Abigail Stewart worked a creative writing background and magical sense of imagination to her advantage as she presented her Fall 2012 collection, which was enchantingly haunting. Picking up her talents by way of her master-weaving mother, who always helps construct the hand-made fabrics, Stewart used silk and satin-faced organzas, felted wool, and mohair to exhibit the hovering factor she found when visualizing ghosts and their weightless qualities. “I wanted to bring in Nine Inch Nails to make the characters dark and edgy, because the collection is already so feminine,” Stewart said jokingly. The designer named her collection “Bone Machine”, after Tom Waits’s 1992 studio album, as she felt his music was dreamlike.

view the full collection in our Photo Gallery

story by Landon Peoples
photos by Ned and Aya Rosen
web editor Rachel Reneé

At her first show, designer Abigail Stewart worked a creative writing background and magical sense of imagination to her advantage as she presented her Fall 2012 collection which was enchantingly haunting. Picking up her talents by way of her master-weaving mother, who always helps construct the hand-made fabrics, Stewart used silk and satin-faced organzas, felted wool, and mohair to exhibit the hovering factor she found when visualizing ghosts and their weightless qualities. “I wanted to bring in Nine Inch Nails to make the characters dark and edgy, because the collection is already so feminine,” Stewart said jokingly. The designer named her collection “Bone Machine”, after Tom Waits’s 1992 studio album, as she felt his music was dreamlike. Continue reading “Abigail Stewart – Fall 2012 – Fair Bones”

Frank Tell – Spring 2012 Review – Lace The Leather

Frank Tell’s Spring 2012 collection combines flowery lace work and luxe leathers that lend to impeccably put together pieces. Leather and lace is an often employed pairing, but do not let that fool you into thinking Frank Tell’s work with them is just another cliche. They may be used often elsewhere, but they are used very differently here.

story by Dana Varon
photos by Ned & Aya Rosen

Frank Tell‘s Spring 2012 collection combines flowery lace work and luxe leathers that lend to impeccably put together pieces. Leather and lace is an often employed pairing, but do not let that fool you into thinking Frank Tell’s work with them is just another cliche. They may be used often elsewhere, but they are used very differently here. Continue reading “Frank Tell – Spring 2012 Review – Lace The Leather”

Timo Weiland – Spring 2012 Review – Moving Onto The Runway

Timo Weiland’s Spring 2012 was in general a good collection but it had an uncharacteristic feel to it compared to their very sharp presentations of the past two seasons. There were many strong pieces and the team’s growth as designers surely continued, but the collection had a few pieces that felt flat and disconnected from the rest of the collection. An 60’s style baseball jacket and a men’s floral shirt and matching short both felt forced, and a small handful of other pieces lacked the original spark that has vaulted the young designers to their white hot status.

View the full collection in our Photo Gallery.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Adrianna Favero

Timo Weiland‘s Spring 2012 was in general a good collection but it had an uncharacteristic feel to it compared to their very sharp presentations of the past two seasons. There were many strong pieces and the team’s growth as designers surely continued, but the collection had a few pieces that felt flat and disconnected from the rest of the collection. An 60’s style baseball jacket and a men’s floral shirt and matching short both felt forced, and a small handful of other pieces lacked the original spark that has vaulted the young designers to their white hot status. Continue reading “Timo Weiland – Spring 2012 Review – Moving Onto The Runway”

Katya Leonovich – Spring 2012 Review – First Class Flights of Fancy

Football and ballet: two seemingly unrelated things. Yet, what would light be without dark, tough without tender? Such was the case in Katya Leonovich’s Spring 2012 collection, that not only begged to differ, but did so with a grace that proves difficult to recall a time when cleats and pointe shoes weren’t directly correlated. Sunday morning’s presentation showcased Leonovich’s expertise of transforming the hard into soft, eloquent, and effortlessly beautiful. Known in previous seasons for bridal couture, the only marriage present here was the union of her painterly background and her execution of rendering the two-dimensional into truly stunning three-dimensional creations. Leonovich literally breathed life into the paintings that helped create the world into which she ultimately transcended her audience.

View the full collection in our Photo Gallery.

story by Lo Gray
photos by Adrianna Favero

Football and ballet: two seemingly unrelated things. Yet, what would light be without dark, tough without tender? Such was the case in Katya Leonovich‘s Spring 2012 collection, that not only begged to differ, but did so with a grace that proves difficult to recall a time when cleats and pointe shoes weren’t directly correlated.

Sunday morning’s presentation showcased Leonovich’s expertise of transforming the hard into soft, eloquent, and effortlessly beautiful. Known in previous seasons for bridal couture, the only marriage present here was the union of her painterly background and her execution of rendering the two-dimensional into truly stunning three-dimensional creations. Leonovich literally breathed life into the paintings that helped create the world into which she ultimately transcended her audience.

A venture from a typical use of mixed media in her designs, the focus of this collection is simply chiffon and denim. Inspired by her own paintings of football players that were on display between staged models, Leonovich spoke passionately of her muses. “My own paintings. . . American football. I really like the outfit. It’s between an astronaut and ballet dancer. Also denim; very American for me.” Her nod to classic American fashion was also illustrated in her use of leather, both in lazer-cut and fringed pieces.

Notables from the collection include a white lazer-cut leather one-shouldered fringed dress, a patched and dyed fitted denim blazer paired with a colorful ruched chiffon pant, and a golden pleat-and-fold high-collared dress. The best-in-show was a magically executed chiffon dress, seemingly weightless, snipped and gathered to the equivalence of a fresh spring bouquet.

With her incredible understanding of movement, the audience experienced a watercolor world of kinetics and whimsy. “I like movement, energetic movement, so when you make construction, it should be movement, proportions and details. That’s why it looks alive.” And alive it was, from the flow of the gowns to the wind-sculpted hair. Strategic, even down to the placement of a fan to orchestrate the flowing of chiffon, set against an ethereal Portishead soundtrack, helped to perpetuate the tranquility in the movement as if being transported into the eye of the hurricane; grounded, yet maintaining a sense of flight. Beautifully rendered, Leonovich’s collection soars.

Rafael Cennamo – Spring 2012 Review – Texture Bliss

When viewing Rafael Cennamo’s Spring 2012 presentation, it’s hard to believe this is designers first time showing at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. Collectable dolls is the named inspiration behind this collection. With chiffon as his favorite textile for the season, he plays it up with a mixture of textures, embroidery and pleats. Pieces with sheer panels paired with feathers were stunning.

story by Ashley Roberts
photos by Pete Cameron Dominkovits

When viewing Rafael Cennamo‘s Spring 2012 presentation, it’s hard to believe this is designers first time showing at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. Collectable dolls is the named inspiration behind this collection. With chiffon as his favorite textile for the season, he plays it up with a mixture of textures, embroidery and pleats. Pieces with sheer panels paired with feathers were stunning. Continue reading “Rafael Cennamo – Spring 2012 Review – Texture Bliss”

Jolibe Sets A Course For Uncharted Waters

Here there be dragons…maybe. Jolibe designers Joel Diaz and Christina LaPens have seen everything that fashion industry can throw at them. From being a struggling independent designer to having your clothes sold at Henri Bendel and becoming a right hand to Helmut Lang, for Mr. Diaz, and a successful career as a marketing and creative director for industry titans Victoria’s Secret, J. Crew, and many others for Mrs. LaPens. Then culminating with their label Jolibe being awarded a spot in the very first class of the CFDA’s Incubator, there’s no way they can be surprised by this business any more, right?

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Adrianna Favero
hair and makeup by Claire Marshall
model is Lara from Fenton Moon

Here there be dragons…maybe. Jolibe designers Joel Diaz and Christina LaPens have seen everything that the fashion industry can throw at them. From being a struggling independent designer to having your clothes sold at Henri Bendel and becoming a right hand to Helmut Lang, for Mr. Diaz, and a successful career as a marketing and creative director for industry titans Victoria’s Secret, J. Crew, and many others for Mrs. LaPens. Then culminating with their label Jolibe being awarded a spot in the very first class of the CFDA’s Incubator, there’s no way they can be surprised by this business any more, right? Continue reading “Jolibe Sets A Course For Uncharted Waters”

Sunghee Bang – Photo Feature

Sitting down with Sunghee Bang was an inspiring experience. Never mind that the tall beauty could be a model herself, her pieces are inspired by her own love of comfort, what works on her tall frame (though they can work on anyone’s frame), and androgyny.

story by Dana Varon
photos by Aeric Meredith-Goujon
fashion styling by Rowshana Jackson
makeup by Joel Angel
hair styling by Damon Alfonso
model is Sietzka of Fenton Moon

Sitting down with Sunghee Bang was an inspiring experience. Never mind that the tall beauty could be a model herself, her pieces are inspired by her own love of comfort, what works on her tall frame (though they can work on anyone’s frame), and androgyny. Continue reading “Sunghee Bang – Photo Feature”