Negarin – Fall 2012 – A Touch Elevated

London-based designer Negarin Sadr’s aims in the fashion world are fairly clear. The text on her website speaks of “the busy woman on the go” and “reasonable prices.” Negarin is a market-driven and focused label, and the clothes are designed to hit that spot towards the upper end of what is known as “contemporary.” As such there was a strong focus on some trend-driven elements such as color blocking, shorter lengths, and comfortable cuts. However… there was more going on with this collection than immediately met the eye.

view the full collection in our Photo Gallery

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Stephen Bodi
web editor Rachel Reneé

London-based designer Negarin Sadr’s aims in the fashion world are fairly clear. The text on her website speaks of “the busy woman on the go” and “reasonable prices.” Negarin is a market-driven and focused label, and the clothes are designed to hit that spot towards the upper end of what is known as “contemporary.” As such there was a strong focus on some trend-driven elements such as color blocking, shorter lengths, and comfortable cuts. However… there was more going on with this collection than immediately met the eye. Continue reading “Negarin – Fall 2012 – A Touch Elevated”

Bora Aksu – Fall 2010 – London

One of the decisions that often needs to be made when evaluating fashion is, is what is being seen a gimmick or is it actually working in the design, helping it to achieve the look and feel that the designer was attempting to achieve? This often occurs with seemingly extraneous elements, ribbons, edging, adornments, or conspicuous work with extra fabric. Sure it catches the eye, but does it help the design? Bora Asku’s Fall 2010 collection forced viewers to make that determination again and again.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Boris Marberg
photo editing by Freda Henry

One of the decisions that often needs to be made when evaluating fashion is, is what is being seen a gimmick or is it actually working in the design, helping it to achieve the look and feel that the designer was attempting to achieve? This often occurs with seemingly extraneous elements, ribbons, edging, adornments, or conspicuous work with extra fabric. Sure it catches the eye, but does it help the design?  Bora Asku’s Fall 2010 collection forced viewers to make that determination again and again. Continue reading “Bora Aksu – Fall 2010 – London”

Sado – Fall 2010 – London

Carlotta Gherzi’s aesthetic is certainly comprised of modern elements. Her cuts, tailoring, and treatments are non traditional and uncommon. Yet her looks never appear ludicrous nor are they of the type that require a dresser to help you wear them.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Freda Henry

Carlotta Gherzi’s aesthetic is certainly comprised of modern elements. Her cuts, tailoring, and treatments are non traditional and uncommon. Yet her looks never appear ludicrous nor are they of the type that require a dresser to help you wear them. Continue reading “Sado – Fall 2010 – London”

Doii Paris – Fall 2010 – London

Doii’s love is obviously for prints and patterns, but it’s her romantic and fantastical color palette, and her ability to use great amounts of softly contrasting colors without making her work look busy or garish, that takes those prints and patterns to the level of art.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Freda Henry

The fashion media has a perverse sense of time. They will label a designer or label as “emerging” or a “bright young star” when they’ve been visible on a national or international level for many seasons. Doii Lee has been a known commodity in many circles since she left Kenzo in 2005 to pursue her own label. The reason her designs will catch your eye is a simple but scarce ingredient; her clothes don’t look like anybody else’s. Continue reading “Doii Paris – Fall 2010 – London”

Horace – Esprit de Corps – Fall 2010 – London

A combination of many of the concepts and constructions that have become part of the British fashion scene in the past two decades.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Freda Henry

Inside of any artistic movement there comes a time where what was once “futuristic” shifts to ”modern” or the even more diluted “contemporary.” This often causes the artist to be viewed as less “visionary” or “innovative” which is insipid thinking because the artist is simply being who they’ve always been and their art is continuing to evolve organically. The fashions that have been coming out of England for the past 15 to 20 years have been amongst the most inventive and daring on Earth. Eventually though the techniques and treatments that create the styles become entrenched and the pace of innovation cools. Continue reading “Horace – Esprit de Corps – Fall 2010 – London”

Caroline Charles – Fall 2010 – London

Caroline Charles is in many ways very much a designer with her roots in the British “mod” movement of the mid 60s . Yet, as Britain has become increasingly culturally diverse, so has Mrs.Charles. Her resulting Fall 2010 collection is a rich tapestry that represents the fashion heritage of many cultures that now call England home.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Wolfgang Wöhrle and Freda Henry
photo editing by Freda Henry

Caroline Charles is in many ways very much a designer with her roots in the British “mod” movement of the mid 60s . Yet, as Britain has become increasingly culturally diverse, so has Mrs.Charles. Her resulting Fall 2010 collection is a rich tapestry that represents the fashion heritage of many cultures that now call England home. Continue reading “Caroline Charles – Fall 2010 – London”

Jasper Conran – Fall 2010 Collection – London

Conran’s work is architectural, stylish, and defies trends. This season is no different, with many bold colors, many of his signature cutout silhouettes, and a feeling of unification despite each garment being its own work of thought.

story by Charles Beckwith
reportage and photo editing by Freda Henry
photos by Wolfgang Wöhrle and Boris Marberg

Englishman Jasper Conran is an all-around sort of designer. He started out at age 19 designing a womenswear line for Bendel’s department store in New York, got a degree at FIT, and headed back to London. In the mid-80s he started a menswear line, which typically shows in Milan. Since then he has kept the plates spinning and designed a few, literally, with housewares, fragrances, luggage, and other projects seemingly sprouting up all the time. Continue reading “Jasper Conran – Fall 2010 Collection – London”

Lovely London Lovely Lovely

Here is a preview of some of the shows we are covering in London. Lovely.

photos by Boris Marberg, Freda Henry, and Wolfgang Wöhrle

Here is a preview of some of the shows we are covering in London. Lovely. Continue reading “Lovely London Lovely Lovely”

Bespoken Spring-Summer 2010 Collection

Exclusively designed and manufactured in London, the traditional English aesthetic was on display in the silhouettes and details of the collection. Originally all about the shirts, the label has now evolved into suits and especially into fitted jackets.

story by Rachel Francois
photos by Freda Henry

Mid-town Manhattan from on high was the backdrop as black and white film projections tickled the walls for the Bespoken spring-summer 2010 collection presentation. Exclusively designed and manufactured in London, the traditional English aesthetic was on display in the silhouettes and details of the collection. Originally all about the shirts, the label has now evolved into suits and especially into fitted jackets. The designers experimented with fabrics such as seersucker and wax cotton to give the traditional men’s suit a refreshing youthful edge. Continue reading “Bespoken Spring-Summer 2010 Collection”