story by Lisa Radano
photos by Rachel Reneé
“We wanted to take couture to the street… dress our friends,” said Brian Wolk, co-designer with Claude Morais, of Ruffian. By the look of the Spring 2013 collection, they could be friends with Marie Antoinette, if she was around now and living in Williamsburg, Brooklyn. Ruffian’s exuberant, frothy, pastel collection was marched down the runway by models wearing the streetest of NYC footwear, Chuck Taylors – and if not for these solid sneakers grounding the wildly feminine clothes, they might have floated up and away.
A wide selection of separates was offered, along with dresses, and even a silky white overall. Skirts were both A-line and dirndl. Pants were both cigarette and slouchy. Blouses were both cropped and billowy. Dresses had bustier bodices and full skirts, or they were simple, breezy shifts. The use of jackets decided the level of frivolity per outfit. Simple blazers or cropped tunics in brocade, matched pants to form a suit – certainly not for Wall Street, but surely for a chic lunch at The Wythe. Bolero jackets in ticking with ornate construction, especially at the sleeve, topped skirts and dresses of silk.
The element that most enunciated the designers’ intention to merge baroque and street was a silk toile that was used in a many of the pieces, including a standout tiered, pouf mini. The toile however, depicted not pastoral French vistas of gardens and milkmaids, but rather the NYC skyline as seen from Brooklyn. Like a plate of Marie Antoinette’s beloved meringues, the blue, pink and yellow toile was the joyful through line of the show. Seeing the pieces up close, it’s clear that Wolk and Morais are serious about the couture aspect of their work. Finishes, fabrics, and construction were of the finest order, causing one of their neighborhood buddies to ask how much it all would cost. Mr. Wolk was quick to point out that no matter what, anyone could afford the cool t-shirt that would be offered on their website.
