Author: archive

Sukeina And The Dragonfly

The fascinating dragonfly pins used to accent the deconstructed Edwardian separates of Sukeina’s Fall 2013 collection intrigue me. Flying with a minimum of effort in all six directions at an amazing 45 miles an hour, or hovering like a helicopter, these iridescent creatures in almost every part of the world symbolize discovery, change, and self-realization. As an orphaned child, Sukeina designer Omar Salam of Dakar, Republic of Senegal, spent his childhood in various European countries. While the music for his show was very clearly West African, what I saw on his runway suggested formative time spent in the British Isles. Mr. Salam takes the classic English polo neck, and the even more classic Edwardian high-necked blouse and pairs these with sleek pants, snug dresses, fit and flare skirts topped with a host of captivating jackets, rendered modern by a process of de/reconstruction. Using fabrics of chiffon, cashmere, and an edgy black and grey tartan shot with iridescent silver thread, in sedate colors of beige, crème, and black with a pop of royal blue, Salam’s hems, sleeves, peplums, shoulders and collars are sent in gracefully marvelous dragonfly directions.

story by Lisa Radano
photos by Charles Beckwith

The fascinating dragonfly pins used to accent the deconstructed Edwardian separates of Sukeina’s Fall 2013 collection intrigue me. Flying with a minimum of effort in all six directions at an amazing 45 miles an hour, or hovering like a helicopter, these iridescent creatures in almost every part of the world symbolize discovery, change, and self-realization. As an orphaned child, Sukeina designer Omar Salam of Dakar, Republic of Senegal, spent his childhood in various European countries. While the music for his show was very clearly West African, what I saw on his runway suggested formative time spent in the British Isles. Mr. Salam takes the classic English polo neck, and the even more classic Edwardian high-necked blouse and pairs these with sleek pants, snug dresses, fit and flare skirts topped with a host of captivating jackets, rendered modern by a process of de/reconstruction. Using fabrics of chiffon, cashmere, and an edgy black and grey tartan shot with iridescent silver thread, in sedate colors of beige, crème, and black with a pop of royal blue, Salam’s hems, sleeves, peplums, shoulders and collars are sent in gracefully marvelous dragonfly directions. Continue reading “Sukeina And The Dragonfly”

La Perla – Shades of Spain

La Perla is a venerable 60 year old Italian company, beloved internationally, but revered domestically – and especially adored in its hometown of Bologna. Creative Director Giovanni Bianchi, also from Bologna, has established himself at the design helm for several seasons. Passion, sensuality, and romance are words that are sprinkled liberally over any dish of Italian identity. In fact, Italians consider themselves ambassadors of these ideals, and their commensurate talent for all things stylish seemingly goes right down to the DNA.

story by Lisa Radano
photos by Charles Beckwith

La Perla is a venerable 60 year old Italian company, beloved internationally, but revered domestically – and especially adored in its hometown of Bologna. Creative Director Giovanni Bianchi, also from Bologna, has established himself at the design helm for several seasons. Passion, sensuality, and romance are words that are sprinkled liberally over any dish of Italian identity. In fact, Italians consider themselves ambassadors of these ideals, and their commensurate talent for all things stylish seemingly goes right down to the DNA. Continue reading “La Perla – Shades of Spain”

Katie Gallagher’s Frozen Memories

The room was dark, a-tonal, screeching wails transmitted by the D.J. pervaded the small space, and an eager crowd squeezed past a long platform atop which a double row of models stood still, frozen in the gloom. This was the scene at Katie Gallagher’s Fall 2013 presentation, aptly named “The Winter That Froze You Away.” With clothes bleakly named “Tundra Dress,” “Mourn Jacket,” and the especially harsh sounding “Frostbite Bodysuit,” one might assume melancholy or a bad case of S.A.D. had overcome the young R.I.S.D. graduate. She spoke about her search for the balance between autobiographical expression and universal appeal – and no matter the grim visions which may have pervaded her process, what resulted was a selection of 16 warm and wearable garments.

story by Lisa Radano
photos by Charles Beckwith

The room was dark, a-tonal, screeching wails transmitted by the D.J. pervaded the small space, and an eager crowd squeezed past a long platform atop which a double row of models stood still, frozen in the gloom. This was the scene at Katie Gallagher’s Fall 2013 presentation, aptly named “The Winter That Froze You Away.” With clothes bleakly named “Tundra Dress,” “Mourn Jacket,” and the especially harsh sounding “Frostbite Bodysuit,” one might assume melancholy or a bad case of S.A.D. had overcome the young R.I.S.D. graduate. She spoke about her search for the balance between autobiographical expression and universal appeal – and no matter the grim visions which may have pervaded her process, what resulted was a selection of 16 warm and wearable garments. Continue reading “Katie Gallagher’s Frozen Memories”

Tia Cibani – A Rising Star Raising Eyebrows

After many successful seasons designing for Ports 1961, Tia Cibani set off to define and establish her own unique voice. I asked her how that felt, and her measured answer spoke to both sides of the question. “In a way, it’s all very new, but at the same time this isn’t my first collection. So, I feel very comfortable, but it’s also scary.” The combination of confidence and vulnerability Cibani experienced while designing her second namesake collection is expressed in the clothes themselves, quite directly in fact.

story by Lisa Radano
photos by Charles Beckwith

After many successful seasons designing for Ports 1961, Tia Cibani set off to define and establish her own unique voice. I asked her how that felt, and her measured answer spoke to both sides of the question. “In a way, it’s all very new, but at the same time this isn’t my first collection. So, I feel very comfortable, but it’s also scary.” The combination of confidence and vulnerability Cibani experienced while designing her second namesake collection is expressed in the clothes themselves, quite directly in fact. Continue reading “Tia Cibani – A Rising Star Raising Eyebrows”

Degen Is Down With Something

What was Lindsay Degen’s inspiration for her Fall 2013 collection? Initial research revealed her usual knitted and crocheted silhouette of crop tops or tunics over leggings were this season embellished with colorful yarn nubs, twigs, pods and jagged strands. Field interviews provided additional data as to the source material for these peculiar and specific decorations, further indicated by the show’s title, “The Doctor,” and the assorted garment names; “Rare Strain Pants,” “Germ Shorts,” “Virus Sweater Dress,” “Platelet T,” and my favorite: “Yuck Sweater.”

story by Lisa Radano
photos by Charles Beckwith

What was Lindsay Degen’s inspiration for her Fall 2013 collection? Initial research revealed her usual knitted and crocheted silhouette of crop tops or tunics over leggings were this season embellished with colorful yarn nubs, twigs, pods and jagged strands. Field interviews provided additional data as to the source material for these peculiar and specific decorations, further indicated by the show’s title, “The Doctor,” and the assorted garment names; “Rare Strain Pants,” “Germ Shorts,” “Virus Sweater Dress,” “Platelet T,” and my favorite: “Yuck Sweater.” Continue reading “Degen Is Down With Something”

V is For Fashion Week

February 14th often finds itself in New York Fashion Week, and it usually catches most of us off guard. “It’s Valentines Day?” ask the overworked and exhausted reporters, photographers, designers, publicists, and models. This season we’re prepared though. Here is a modaCYCLE salute to little hearts that say “be mine.” This feature includes looks from Jenna Leigh Lingerie, Betsey Johnson Intimates, and OnGossamer, along with a delicious Mast Brothers (made in Brooklyn) Sea Salt dark chocolate bar.

photography by Charles Beckwith
makeup by LaTasha Quianna
hair styling by Jeb Stuart Johnston
model is Katie from Paragon

February 14th often finds itself in New York Fashion Week, and it usually catches most of us off guard. “It’s Valentines Day?” ask the overworked and exhausted reporters, photographers, designers, publicists, and models. This season we’re prepared though. Here is a modaCYCLE salute to little candy hearts that say “be mine.” Continue reading “V is For Fashion Week”

Technology Will Swallow Fashion

There was an open call for panelists for the most recent Fashion + Tech NY event, held January 29th in a beautiful little auditorium at the Hearst building on West 57th Street. Organizers overbooked, and ended up with nine panelists plus a moderator who participated in the discussion, all on the stage at the same time. It was understandably a bit hard to follow, but keenly represented was the gold rush currently happening somewhere between the Garment District and Silicon Alley, with footholds from Dumbo to Greenpoint, taking financing from the direction of San Francisco. Moderator and Third Wave Fashion founder Liza Kindred said her group is currently tracking over 600 initiatives in the field. Technology start-ups related to fashion are booming.

story and photos by Charles Beckwith

There was an open call for panelists for the most recent Fashion + Tech NY event, held January 29th in a beautiful little auditorium at the Hearst building on West 57th Street. Organizers overbooked, and ended up with nine panelists, plus a moderator who participated in the discussion, all on the stage at the same time. It was understandably a bit hard to follow, but keenly represented was the gold rush currently happening somewhere between the Garment District and Silicon Alley, with footholds from Dumbo to Greenpoint, taking financing from the direction of San Francisco. Moderator and Third Wave Fashion founder Liza Kindred said her group is currently tracking over 600 initiatives in the field. Technology start-ups related to fashion are booming. Continue reading “Technology Will Swallow Fashion”

Investing In Fashion

modaCYCLE editors Charles Beckwith and Seth Friedermann are collaborating on a just-launched fashion investment project called Fashion For-Profit. Each month they will select three very talented designers to invite for a panel discussion in front of potential investors, organized through Meetup.com. The editors will moderate the panel, advise the investors and designers on current market forces which might impact what is going on with the brands, and then the panel will be followed with one-on-one meetings between the designers and interested potential financiers.

IMGP6636.BlugirlmodaCYCLE editors Charles Beckwith and Seth Friedermann are collaborating on a just-launched fashion investment project called Fashion For-Profit.

Each month they will select three very talented designers to invite for a panel discussion in front of potential investors, organized through Meetup.com. The editors will moderate the panel, advise the investors and designers on current market forces which might impact what is going on with the brands, and then the panel will be followed with one-on-one meetings between the designers and interested potential financiers.

Brands to be showcased will be a mix of emerging designers who have passed their second collection, and established smaller designers who are ready for a boost to take their labels to the next level of development.

For the moment, the editors have more than enough ideas about which designers to bring in, but it may open up for submissions after a few months.

The group is now live on Meetup for potential investors to join, and the first event will be held at the end of February.

The Curation Question

On December 5th, Fashion + Tech NY held a panel discussion on the retail hot topic of the last two years, curation. There is no question now that consumers get their primary sense of products from media, be it broadcast or social. There is also millions of times more information immediately available than ever before. The role that used to be filled by topical mavens, the old man who knew where to fish and how to do it, or the woman who hit the dress shops in the surrounding towns frequently enough to know where you could find a long yellow one at a discount, they have been heavily supplemented by Twitter and Facebook friends (although that’s becoming highly suspect), by Amazon and Yelp reviews, by Google Shopping tips returned with search results, and by friends who spend all their time at work looking online for clues as to when the next iPad is going to be released. What businesses are currently obsessing over is how to profit from curation.

story and photos by Charles Beckwith

On December 5th, Fashion + Tech NY held a panel discussion on the retail hot topic of the last two years, curation. There is no question now that consumers get their primary sense of products from media, be it broadcast or social. There is also millions of times more information immediately available than ever before. The role that used to be filled by topical mavens, the old man who knew where to fish and how to do it, or the woman who hit the dress shops in the surrounding towns frequently enough to know where you could find a long yellow one at a discount, they have been heavily supplemented by Twitter and Facebook friends (although that’s becoming highly suspect), by Amazon and Yelp reviews, by Google Shopping tips returned with search results, and by friends who spend all their time at work looking online for clues as to when the next iPad is going to be released. What businesses are currently obsessing over is how to profit from curation. Continue reading “The Curation Question”

Sachin + Babi Are An Independent Match

Sachin and Babi Ahluwalia are a remarkable creative team. Designing clothes, designing brands, designing businesses. The first thing that strikes you about them is their mix passion and a sense of defiance for the brands that they build and the clothes that they design.

story written by Seth Friedermann
feature and runway photography by Adrianna Favero
feature styling by Pauline Toruan
feature makeup by Clara Isabella
feature model is Liisa Õunmaa of Muse Model Management

runway garments SS2013 by Sachin + Babi
feature garments FW2012 by Sachin + Babi
feature accessories by Gemma Redux

Sachin and Babi Ahluwalia are a remarkable creative team. Designing clothes, designing brands, designing businesses. The first thing that strikes you about them is their mix passion and a sense of defiance for the brands that they build and the clothes that they design. Continue reading “Sachin + Babi Are An Independent Match”