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Jackie Fraser Swan’s Fall 2013 collection continued her Emerson brand’s parade of head on her shoulders cool girl staples. It’s a young lively assortment with great color choices, displaying interesting use of patterns and leather. Good fits for environments from classroom to office to cocktail reception. She has a good habit of framing or presenting the neck and shoulders very well.
story and photos by Charles Beckwith
Jackie Fraser Swan’s Fall 2013 collection continued her Emerson brand’s parade of head on her shoulders cool girl staples. It’s a young lively assortment with great color choices, displaying interesting use of patterns and leather. Good fits for environments from classroom to office to cocktail reception. She has a good habit of framing or presenting the neck and shoulders very well. Continue reading “Emerson’s Cool Collected Girls”
It doesn’t happen very often, but occasionally someone in Ralph Rucci’s atelier will forget and hang too many Chado garments on one rack, thus prompting the designer to declare, “No no no. You can’t crowd the girls like this. They can’t breathe.” Never crowd the girls. This avowal might seem charmingly anecdotal, but if you know Rucci, you know he means it quite seriously. Each dress, skirt, gown, coat, or blouse isn’t just alive for him. Every one is adored as a dear friend or even a child, born more than made by not a team but a family. So please. Never crowd the girls.
story by Lisa Radano
photos by udor
It doesn’t happen very often, but occasionally someone in Ralph Rucci’s atelier will forget and hang too many Chado garments on one rack, thus prompting the designer to declare, “No no no. You can’t crowd the girls like this. They can’t breathe.” Never crowd the girls. This avowal might seem charmingly anecdotal, but if you know Rucci, you know he means it quite seriously. Each dress, skirt, gown, coat, or blouse isn’t just alive for him. Every one is adored as a dear friend or even a child, born more than made by not a team but a family. So please. Never crowd the girls.
Continue reading “Chado Ralph Rucci – Fiercely Innovative Yet Somehow Genteel”
Our review of the Fall 2013 Chado Ralph Rucci collection will be published soon, but we had two photographers in very different positions at this show, and so many great pictures of such a long show, it seems odd to edit them down for one article, so here is a special feature that brings you specifically my view from the front row. There are three shows I try to never miss during New York Fashion Week, and I think you’ll see why Mr. Rucci’s remains number one.
text and photos by Charles Beckwith
Our review of the Fall 2013 Chado Ralph Rucci collection will be published soon, but we had two photographers in very different positions at this show, and so many great pictures of such a long show, it seems odd to edit them down for one article, so here is a special feature that brings you specifically my view from the front row. There are three shows I try to never miss during New York Fashion Week, and I think you’ll see why Mr. Rucci’s remains number one. Continue reading “Chado Ralph Rucci Up Close In Imperial Colors”
There is an adage in fashion, goes something like – “If you wore a trend the first time, you’re too old to wear it when it returns.” Did the grande dame Diane von Furstenburg get where she is by following such reductive rules? Mais non. This cheeky iconoclast wears her curly hair long, her red-soled heels high, and she lives by the declaration proffered prior to her Fall 2013 show – “ It’s not that you are going to a party, life is a party!” DVF’s party had smiling models, cheery fabrics in pink, red, rust, and royal blue, funky animal prints and lurex, disco diva classics, soft touchable hair and a host of fluid, flattering, very easy to wear dresses and trousers.
story by Lisa Radano
photos by udor
There is an adage in fashion, goes something like – “If you wore a trend the first time, you’re too old to wear it when it returns.” Did the grande dame Diane von Furstenburg get where she is by following such reductive rules? Mais non. This cheeky iconoclast wears her curly hair long, her red-soled heels high, and she lives by the declaration proffered prior to her Fall 2013 show – “ It’s not that you are going to a party, life is a party!” DVF’s party had smiling models, cheery fabrics in pink, red, rust, and royal blue, funky animal prints and lurex, disco diva classics, soft touchable hair and a host of fluid, flattering, very easy to wear dresses and trousers. Continue reading “Diane von Furstenburg – Forever Young”
Often when a designer’s name, and more to the point a woman designer’s name, is made in bridalwear, the dear promise that was respectfully made between artist and subject is carried on at ready to wear and kept fast: I will not let you down, I will never let you look a fool, I know that today is your day, I know one picture lasts a lifetime. It’s therefore no wonder then that Monique Lhuillier has triumphed at the particular business of red carpet glamour. She understands what it means to dress the woman in focus. With all eyes and cameras pointed at her, Lhuillier’s woman does not “…want to take a risk at such an important time. That’s why simple silhouettes are best. Women are more comfortable taking a chance on color or treatment.” This wise formula is in play on her Fall 2013 runway, and will work wonders at award shows, film openings, charity balls, and any gala event where a woman must make being on display look gracefully easy.
story by Lisa Radano
photos by udor
Often when a designer’s name, and more to the point a woman designer’s name, is made in bridalwear, the dear promise that was respectfully made between artist and subject is carried on at ready to wear and kept fast: I will not let you down, I will never let you look a fool, I know that today is your day, I know one picture lasts a lifetime. It’s therefore no wonder then that Monique Lhuillier has triumphed at the particular business of red carpet glamour. She understands what it means to dress the woman in focus. With all eyes and cameras pointed at her, Lhuillier’s woman does not “…want to take a risk at such an important time. That’s why simple silhouettes are best. Women are more comfortable taking a chance on color or treatment.” This wise formula is in play on her Fall 2013 runway, and will work wonders at award shows, film openings, charity balls, and any gala event where a woman must make being on display look gracefully easy. Continue reading “Monique Lhuillier – Simple, Sound, Stunning”
I asked Reem Acra, known for her florally feminine bridal and evening wear, if I was correct in sensing a new forceful if not downright aggressive energy in her crimson splashed black collection for Fall 2013. “Well yes!” she answered readily, “I am a strong woman, and I believe it’s time again for women to be stronger! These are clothes that will protect, give armor to the wearer so they can be fierce!” From bride to fierce – indeed any busy, multi-mani-pedi-tasking woman will tell you, it’s all fun and games until someone gets married…
story by Lisa Radano
photos by udor and Charles Beckwith
I asked Reem Acra, known for her florally feminine bridal and evening wear, if I was correct in sensing a new forceful if not downright aggressive energy in her crimson splashed black collection for Fall 2013. “Well yes!” she answered readily, “I am a strong woman, and I believe it’s time again for women to be stronger! These are clothes that will protect, give armor to the wearer so they can be fierce!” From bride to fierce – indeed any busy, multi-mani-pedi-tasking woman will tell you, it’s all fun and games until someone gets married… Continue reading “Reem Acra – Fierce First”
“We started the company because there wasn’t clothing out there for women who wanted to be sexy without being vulgar.” Sex without vulgarity, no offense guys, is a style better served by the ladies, and perfectly executed by the ladies Cushnie et Ochs, whose Fall 2013 offering put me in mind of the great Gypsy Rose Lee. Ms. Lee – a clever performer whose striptease always kept a giddy, erotic tension between that which was revealed and that which was concealed – defended the dubious ethos of her métier by saying, “ I was never naked. I was completely covered by a blue spotlight!” Cushnie et Ochs has you covered.
story by Lisa Radano
photos by Charles Beckwith
“We started the company because there wasn’t clothing out there for women who wanted to be sexy without being vulgar.” Sex without vulgarity, no offense guys, is a style better served by the ladies, and perfectly executed by the ladies Cushnie et Ochs, whose Fall 2013 offering put me in mind of the great Gypsy Rose Lee. Ms. Lee – a clever performer whose striptease always kept a giddy, erotic tension between that which was revealed and that which was concealed – defended the dubious ethos of her métier by saying, “ I was never naked. I was completely covered by a blue spotlight!” Cushnie et Ochs has you covered. Continue reading “Cushnie et Ochs – Sharp”
I’ve said on many occasions that I believe that Jen Kao is one of the future superstars of American fashion. I encourage you to go and look through pictures from her first collection in the Fall of 2008 (unfortunately that season was slightly pre-modaCYCLE) to behold her growth as an artist. Her Fall 2013 Collection marks the first time that I walked away from one of her shows not 100% thrilled. To be crystal clear, there were many pieces that were extraordinary. Ms. Kao’s work with patches in both squares & triangles was clever & energizing. Her asymmetrically draped skirts in vinyl and leather were gorgeous. And the fabric choices of soft mixed with hard and glossy gave the collection and many of the pieces an alluring appeal.
story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Aeric Meredith-Goujon
I’ve said on many occasions that I believe that Jen Kao is one of the future superstars of American fashion. I encourage you to go and look through pictures from her first collection in the Fall of 2008 (unfortunately that season was slightly pre-modaCYCLE) to behold her growth as an artist. Her Fall 2013 Collection marks the first time that I walked away from one of her shows not 100% thrilled. To be crystal clear, there were many pieces that were extraordinary. Ms. Kao’s work with patches in both squares & triangles was clever & energizing. Her asymmetrically draped skirts in vinyl and leather were gorgeous. And the fabric choices of soft mixed with hard and glossy gave the collection and many of the pieces an alluring appeal. Continue reading “Jen Kao – Still In Shapes”
I was hanging out with Seth Friedermann following a fashion presentation at the Russian Consulate when he said he was going to check out a new designer, Suzanne Rae, a few blocks down Fifth Avenue. What I saw when we arrived was a well-edited collection of really beautiful simple vestment-inspired womenswear looks from an apparently talented but still more or less unknown emerging designer. Also on display were almost sleek knitwear looks created in a collaboration with the normally a bit off the wall self-proclaimed “math nerd” designer Lindsay Degen, which were a strong 180 from what she had presented at her own show earlier the same day. This is a strong start for an emerging designer, but something Seth and I both agreed on was that it lacked a distinct signature. Who exactly is Suzanne Rae, and what will the thread be that defines her work season after season? If this label is to survive and expand, she must find that extra bit that leaves a mark in the mind but takes nothing away.
story and photos by Charles Beckwith
I was hanging out with Seth Friedermann following a fashion presentation at the Russian Consulate when he said he was going to check out a new designer, Suzanne Rae, a few blocks down Fifth Avenue. What I saw when we arrived was a well-edited collection of really beautiful simple vestment-inspired womenswear looks from an apparently talented but still more or less unknown emerging designer. Also on display were almost sleek knitwear looks created in a collaboration with the normally a bit off the wall self-proclaimed “math nerd” designer Lindsay Degen, which were a strong 180 from what she had presented at her own show earlier the same day. This is a strong second collection for an emerging designer, but something Seth and I both agreed on was that it lacked a distinct signature. Who exactly is Suzanne Rae, and what will the thread be that defines her work season after season? If this label is to survive and expand, she must find that extra bit that leaves a mark in the mind but takes nothing away. Continue reading “Suzanne Rae – Round Two”
Christian Siriano, the impish young designer, who in his bookish clothes and thick-rimmed glasses resembles a punkish Harry Potter, conjured an enchantment of looks for the Fall 2013 runway where the little wizard’s knack for crafting opulent day and evening wear was deftly demonstrated and shown atop a line of velvet buckled pumps, lace up boots and sling-backed platforms. The latter available the following day at Payless for thirty dollars – neat trick that! With Russia as his guide Siriano’s day looks included black leather trousers, skirts and dresses with wool and fur accents, great coats in shearling and alpaca, stretch brocade t-shirts, and an ingenious golden faux fur pencil skirt, which “a girl could totally wear to work if she wanted to.” Nice work if you can get it…
story by Lisa Radano
photos by Stephen Bodi
Christian Siriano, the impish young designer, who in his bookish clothes and thick-rimmed glasses resembles a punkish Harry Potter, conjured an enchantment of looks for the Fall 2013 runway where the little wizard’s knack for crafting opulent day and evening wear was deftly demonstrated and shown atop a line of velvet buckled pumps, lace up boots and sling-backed platforms. The latter available the following day at Payless for thirty dollars – neat trick that! With Russia as his guide Siriano’s day looks included black leather trousers, skirts and dresses with wool and fur accents, great coats in shearling and alpaca, stretch brocade t-shirts, and an ingenious golden faux fur pencil skirt, which “a girl could totally wear to work if she wanted to.” Nice work if you can get it… Continue reading “Christian Siriano’s Broom Schtick”
