story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Freda Henry
Mackage designers Eran Elfassy and Elisa Dahan have a slightly different working relationship. “I’ll draw a little bit”, says Mr. Elfassy, “and then she’ll grab my paper and erase and I’ll say why did you change that? And she’ll say, ‘because I hate it!’ And then we keep going, and eventually we both love it.” The label’s continuing expansion from outerwear into ready to wear has broadened into the field even further with their Fall 2011 collection.
There is a subtle flirtatiousness to the collection which is full of neatly engaged details echoing past eras of luxury and glamour. They’ve captured a very timeless feeling with the collection. The use of cutouts, mesh sections, and leather accents create strong points of interest, and the use of shimmering fabrics added a noir elegance to the collection as a whole. I asked the pair if they found any freedom in ready to wear which by lack of defined function can be much less constructed than outerwear.
“Our ready to wear is actually very structured. We’ve mastered the coat that looks like a dress, which made the transition [to ready to wear] fun.”
The love of structure and supportive construction that creates particular shapes of effects in outerwear is what makes Mackage’s ready to wear different and eye catching structural details.
“It’s a true collaboration, and I think the success of our brand is that there are two really very strong heads that are collaborating and we really fight to get to the end result.”
Although there were just a few looks that seemed misplaced, overall it was another strong expansion of Mackage into becoming a full Ready To Wear brand.