view the cull collection in our Photo Gallery
story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Adrianna Favero
web editor Rachel Reneé
The Nicholas K Fall 2012 collection was another strong example of the labels increasingly recognizable signature style. All the elements one would expect were in evidence; the layering, the rough textures, the creative cuts and treatments. The soul of any Nicholas K design is a transfixing intersection of rawness and creative construction. Every single piece that walked down the runway in this, the very first of the official Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Fall 2012 shows, was loaded with elements and details that drew the eye. There were thin fabrics in long cuts that created life and movement, and these were layered under rough knits, wools, and leathers.
The consistent presence of angled and asymmetrical short pieces over shirts and blouses created a homespun frontier feel, which was intensely pleasing to the eye. These are clothes with stories and imagination woven in. They perhaps even possess the ability to make the wearer more interesting, at least in appearance, as they simply exude character and history.
Leather jackets were a major standout, with stunning cuts featuring fascinating accordion sleeves above the elbow on many and thick one side standing collars that curled around into the upper chest on two. Nicholas and Chris Kunz’s creations are more about what is layered than the simple idea that there are layers. These layers have internal logic. Very often they start with a sheer or simple flowing layer first and build with rougher fabrics or textures on top. They rarely tip over into excess, so the pieces don’t appear bulky or heavy.
There were a few pieces that seemed clever for the sake of cleverness. The jackets held on to the back by suspenders felt gimmicky. It was important that the duo continue to try new things. Their were even a few “flapper” cocktail dresses that were pretty but were more important in their significance in signaling the label’s awareness that they can and should expand and conquer new retail territory. A strong menswear and womenswear label with a unique point of view, Nicholas K stands poised to create a line of clothing which fits every potential moment of their client’s day. Chris Kunz said to me backstage that he fears that people may sometimes see their clothes as complex and challenging to wear. If you are out shopping and you see Nicholas K pieces, just try them on and you will see how easy it is to wear them, and create a little bit more complexity and character of your own.
