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story by Lauren Gray
photos by Aeric Meredith-Goujon
web editor Rachel Reneé
The forecast looks clear for Dean Quinn. The former Central Saint Martins Womenswear Designer of the Year winner was all about clean lines and witty, functional details in a palette that swiftly remedied any winter malaise of the guests entering his Fall 2012 presentation. Hot pink and red with grounding blue, cream, and nude lit up the 25-year-old designer’s presentation at Milk Studios on Saturday; a welcome sojourn for an audience laden in leather and faux fur.
Backstage, Quinn’s time was thinly spread. From snipping errant strings to pulling a last-minute model into her dress and onto the seamless paper for lookbook shots, the designer was undeniably involved. “Where are the spare Manolos?!” he shouted, arresting the attention of the room. He was clearly speaking a language every girl was eager to hear and couldn’t wait to talk about in the studio. Pausing to take a much-needed breath, Quinn spoke happily of inspiration.
“I was looking at the royalty… the regality within gypsy culture and how their fascination with designer clothing drives them to adorn themselves at these huge events. That culture in Europe is absolutely massive.”
Gypsies, but definitely not of the “tramps and thieves” variety. More so the marriage of traditional and modern dress, a la My Big Fat Gypsy Wedding-esque of gypsies; the stories that 21st century extravagances are made of.
Aiming to create pieces that transcend the workplace, Quinn was adamant about presenting a collection that maintained professionalism and elegance. He’s designing for “a woman who has a job and likes to be comfortable when she goes out. She’s not afraid to be sexy. Not overconfident, but she’s got a definite confidence about her.”
It would be hard to not have self-assurance, as many of the looks played on the form-fitting and body-con variety. Models were poised in silk chiffon and wool-crepe creations, adorned with zippers and fringe detailing (evidence of Quinn’s careful hand as former embroiderer at Versace) with an occasional teasing peek of the leg.
Perhaps Mr. Quinn’s most notable detail was that of pintuck paneling. The intricate work was primarily featured on two pieces: a red wool-crepe and silk chiffon dress as well as a white and nude wool and silk variation. The caccoon-like tucks in the back (white) and front (red) gave a necessary volume to the surrounding one-dimensional gowns. The pintuck technique was integrated into the back side-paneling of a stunning hot pink floor-length dress with an open back. Definitely Red Carpet material.
When prompted for personal favorites, Quinn divulged, “I’d have to say it’s the long pink dress or the ones with the zippers.”
Makeup by Lyne Desnoyers and the MAC Pro Team was inspired by “Royalty, gypsy women, with a dash of the classic French woman.” Martin-Christopher Harper’s hair, with an untamed center part, provided balance to the sharp lines and colors. The fourteen-look presentation was Dean’s sophomore collection for New York Fashion Week.
