Author: archive

All Keyed Up – Some Words For The Garment Buyers

Despite all of the knocks against new talent, boutiques and department stores ignore fresh faces at their peril. It’s important for retailers to remember that everybody who is a superstar now was an emerging designer once. To break a new star designer adds tremendous cache to your store and will increase your destination foot traffic by giving you the status of “a place to go for those who know.” Of equal importance is the fact that after the designer breaks out you will never see wholesale prices that low again if you don’t establish an early relationship of some kind.

All Keyed Up is a monthly column by managing editor Seth Friedermann

There is no degree or certificate in fashion buying, it’s an occupation that professionals succeed in via a mix of training, instinct, and fiscal discipline. A department store buyer will often study under a more experienced buyer for many seasons before being promoted or accepting a head buyer position elsewhere. Whereas opposingly, a boutique owner is instantly thrust into the role repeatedly before their store is even open. It’s an exceptionally difficult job in a good economy, so you can imagine how hard it is today. When a buyer enters the seasonal market, the severe constraints within which they operate quickly shackle their freedom to choose. A fashion buyer has to be 99% correct at least twice a year. Add in the holiday, resort, and pre-fall, and the opportunity to be wrong increases. To choose incorrect pieces is to end up with dead stock, which can be the kiss of death in the fairly narrow margin world of retail fashion. Add in the fact that an established buyer enters each season with an inflexible budget and labels that they already know will sell to their client, and that leaves precious little money left over to spend on emerging designers. Now factor in the current mess that is the world economy and the chance of a new designer’s work being purchased by a buyer has shrunk to a pauper’s slice of the pie, irregardless of talent, skill, and inspiration. Continue reading “All Keyed Up – Some Words For The Garment Buyers”

Ines Di Santo – Spring 2012 Bridal – Traditional On Top

Bridal fashion is unique in almost every conceivable way. From the demands of the fabric to the demands of the clients it’s an elite fashion form favored by just a handful of designers. This demanding and restrictive art form creates challenges for a fashion designer that most avoid, yet a select few embrace and then thrive. One of those that has succeed in the long term is the Canadian designer Ines Di Santo.

View the full collection in our Photo Gallery.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Ned & Aya Rosen

Bridal fashion is unique in almost every conceivable way. From the demands of the fabric to the demands of the clients it’s an elite fashion form favored by just a handful of designers. This demanding and restrictive art form creates challenges for a fashion designer that most avoid, yet a select few embrace and then thrive. One of those that has succeed in the long term is the Canadian designer Ines Di Santo. Continue reading “Ines Di Santo – Spring 2012 Bridal – Traditional On Top”

Diving For Galanos Off The Coast of Fifth Avenue

Here at FROCK we are fortunate to have both the opportunity to see fashion at it’s finest, as well as meeting the women who truly appreciate it and have a distinct sense of personal style. Every day is akin to a treasure hunt as we go shopping in these women’s closets for new pieces. There are designers one finds in nearly every closet we encounter. Yves Saint Laurent, Valentino, Christian Dior, Halston, Bill Blass, Chanel (both Coco and Karl)… each and every one a true master; but there is one favorite designer of mine who always stands out and is found in the closets of women who were fortunate enough to have the means to acquire these exquisite pieces. This would be James Galanos, in my personal estimation, one of the foremost 20th Century American couturiers and rightly so, one of the leading designers of all time.

written by Evan Ross, proprietor of FROCK in New York City

Here at FROCK we are fortunate to have both the opportunity to see fashion at it’s finest, as well as meeting the women who truly appreciate it and have a distinct sense of personal style. Every day is akin to a treasure hunt as we go shopping in these women’s closets for new pieces. There are designers one finds in nearly every closet we encounter. Yves Saint Laurent, Valentino, Christian Dior, Halston, Bill Blass, Chanel (both Coco and Karl)… each and every one a true master; but there is one favorite designer of mine who always stands out and is found in the closets of women who were fortunate enough to have the means to acquire these exquisite pieces. This would be James Galanos, in my personal estimation, one of the foremost 20th Century American couturiers and rightly so, one of the leading designers of all time. Continue reading “Diving For Galanos Off The Coast of Fifth Avenue”

Wayne – Spring 2012 Review – Simply Not Simple

Designer Wayne Lee very obviously knows her craft. The choices she displayed in concept, construction, and color for her Spring 2012 collection all worked together harmoniously, with very few exceptions. The most interesting thing about her work is the way that her design choices make it seem more minimalist than it is in actuality.

View the full collection in our Photo Gallery.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Stephen Bodi

Designer Wayne Lee very obviously knows her craft. The choices she displayed in concept, construction, and color for her Spring 2012 collection all worked together harmoniously, with very few exceptions. The most interesting thing about her work is the way that her design choices make it seem more minimalist than it is in actuality. Continue reading “Wayne – Spring 2012 Review – Simply Not Simple”

Nima Taherzadeh Resorts To The Strap

Nima Taherzadeh likes playing peek-a-boo with the loveliness that is a woman’s body. In his past collections he’s enjoyed using cutouts and other evident techniques to flash a little skin and accent the sexuality of his clients. His Fall 2011 collection was a very aggressive and still glamorous take on this vision, however his more recent resort collection represented a more decisive and delightful expression of what this intriguing designer has to say. This is a very well-aimed sexy selection, it’s for confident women who want to be compelling and intriguing at any time of day. Consisting primarily of sporty separates and day dresses, the clothes were sophisticated and very playfully sexy. Tailored and structured yes, but in a way that accents the body rather than represses it and creates an impression of control and strength. Mr. Taherzadeh is definitely a fan of his client and wants to use his work to provide strength and confidence.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Ned and Aya Rosen
fashion styling by Michael Tucker
styling assistant Ashley Roberts
hair styling by Hitomi Mura
make-up by Isabel Ruiz
models Sofia Monaco and Dace from Ford

Nima Taherzadeh likes playing peek-a-boo with the loveliness that is a woman’s body. In his past collections he’s enjoyed using cutouts and other evident techniques to flash a little skin and accent the sexuality of his clients. His Fall 2011 collection was a very aggressive and still glamorous take on this vision, however his more recent resort collection represented a more decisive and delightful expression of what this intriguing designer has to say. This is a very well-aimed sexy selection, it’s for confident women who want to be compelling and intriguing at any time of day. Consisting primarily of sporty separates and day dresses, the clothes were sophisticated and very playfully sexy. Tailored and structured yes, but in a way that accents the body rather than represses it and creates an impression of control and strength. Mr. Taherzadeh is definitely a fan of his client and wants to use his work to provide strength and confidence. Continue reading “Nima Taherzadeh Resorts To The Strap”

All Keyed Up – Symptoms, Conditions, and Cures

The system of values that governs both the action and conversation in global fashion is horribly askew. If you’re a reader of my writing, have met me, or even vaguely know what I care about, then you will know that I’m not happy about the way the “fashion industry” treats the designers who are in fact the actual fashion industry. The ability to make bank and be seen around celebrities is placed so far above imagination and craftsmanship that the traits are actually absent from thinking and conversation both inside and outside the industry. The ignorant obsession of the fashion industry with everything other than the actual creation of brilliant clothing and accessories is a symptom of a much larger problem.

written by Seth Friedermann
photo by Aeric Meredith-Goujon

The system of values that governs both the action and conversation in global fashion is horribly askew. If you’re a reader of my writing, have met me, or even vaguely know what I care about, then you will know that I’m not happy about the way the “fashion industry” treats the designers who are in fact the actual fashion industry. The ability to make bank and be seen around celebrities is placed so far above imagination and craftsmanship that the traits are actually absent from thinking and conversation both inside and outside the industry. The ignorant obsession of the fashion industry with everything other than the actual creation of brilliant clothing and accessories is a symptom of a much larger problem. Continue reading “All Keyed Up – Symptoms, Conditions, and Cures”

Victor de Souza – Spring 2012 Review – Armoresque and Alien

story by Zimir Hernandez
photos by Aeric Meredith- Goujon

designer Victor de Souza

The Spring 2012 collection of Victor De Souza displays compelling creativity that engaged viewers with armoresque silhouettes coupled with elegant lines, ruffles, hand-stitched silk ripples, and pleated horse hair. The designs of this collection showcased a special balance of structure and fluidity with the use of satin,organza, and wool. Continue reading “Victor de Souza – Spring 2012 Review – Armoresque and Alien”

Rochambeau – Spring 2012 Review – Cutting Edgy Menswear

Rochambeau’s Spring 2012 collection has a medieval sexiness to it. Last spring, we saw button-downs and jackets. In this collection, the designers, Laurence Chandler and Joshua Cooper, took more risks. Vests and blazers with asymmetrical lines fall and drape seamlessly. Pants and shorts are high waisted and wide-leg, accenting the curves and waist of the male figure.

View the full collection in our Photo Gallery.

story by Ashley Roberts
photos by Pete Cameron Dominkovits

Rochambeau‘s Spring 2012 collection has a medieval sexiness to it. Last spring, we saw button-downs and jackets. In this collection, the designers, Laurence Chandler and Joshua Cooper, took more risks. Vests and blazers with asymmetrical lines fall and drape seamlessly. Pants and shorts are high waisted and wide-legged, accenting the curves and waist of the male figure. Continue reading “Rochambeau – Spring 2012 Review – Cutting Edgy Menswear”

Julian Louie – Spring 2012 Review – Updated Garden Prints Galore

What a nice retreat, after pounding the New York City pavement, to come into a show presenting such bright images of nature. Julian Louie created many of his new designs using photographic images taken while on a trip to the Brooklyn Botanical Garden. He then collaged them as prints, creating a fresh green group of garments.

story by Dana Varon
photos by Ned and Aya Rosen

What a nice retreat, after pounding the New York City pavement, to come into a show presenting such bright images of nature. Julian Louie created many of his new designs using photographic images taken while on a trip to the Brooklyn Botanical Garden. He then collaged them as prints, creating a fresh green group of garments. Continue reading “Julian Louie – Spring 2012 Review – Updated Garden Prints Galore”

Douglas Hannant – Spring 2012 Review – A Return To Shanghai

Douglas Hannant’s Spring 2012 collection takes inspiration from 1930’s Shanghai, a time period that is seldom explored, which made it especially enticing to him.

View the full collection in our Photo Gallery.

story by Dana Varon
photos by Ned and Aya Rosen

Douglas Hannant‘s Spring 2012 collection takes inspiration from 1930’s Shanghai, a time period that is seldom explored, which made it especially enticing to him. Continue reading “Douglas Hannant – Spring 2012 Review – A Return To Shanghai”