Author: archive

Tadashi Shoji Dresses Strong Women

To a group of us after his frothy Spring 2014 show, Tadashi Shoji said in lieu of his theme: “It doesn’t take big shoulder pads and dark pant suits for a woman to be strong.” Known for his feminine party clothes, Mr. Shoji’s current regard for power dressing was not necessarily indicated by either his track record, or what had just gently glided by on the runway. On closer inspection of the impeccably crafted dresses and gowns, I started to see just what sort of strength Mr. Shoji championed and how it was achieved.

story by Lisa-Maria Radano
photos by udor

To a group of us after his frothy Spring 2014 show, Tadashi Shoji said in lieu of his theme: “It doesn’t take big shoulder pads and dark pant suits for a woman to be strong.” Known for his feminine party clothes, Mr. Shoji’s current regard for power dressing was not necessarily indicated by either his track record, or what had just gently glided by on the runway. On closer inspection of the impeccably crafted dresses and gowns, I started to see just what sort of strength Mr. Shoji championed and how it was achieved. Continue reading “Tadashi Shoji Dresses Strong Women”

Jen Kao – Daring Devore Combinations

In a chilly, hazy hangar of a space, against a backdrop of gauzy white curtains, Stevie Nicks, and Joni Mitchell, a collection materialized wherein classic singer/songwriter leitmotifs like denim, plaid and devore were sent through Ms. Kao’s cutting tunnel. What came out the other side, once ingeniously stitched back together, was redolent of the past but defiantly new. “This season is about versatility. The clothes ask a girl – beg a girl to want to put it together for herself.” So said Los Angeles-based designer Jen Kao of her billowy, skin baring, hippie/jet setter Spring 2014 collection.

story by Lisa-Maria Radano
photos by Charles Beckwith

In a chilly, hazy hangar of a space, against a backdrop of gauzy white curtains, Stevie Nicks, and Joni Mitchell, a collection materialized wherein classic singer/songwriter leitmotifs like denim, plaid and devore were sent through Ms. Kao’s cutting tunnel. What came out the other side, once ingeniously stitched back together, was redolent of the past but defiantly new. “This season is about versatility. The clothes ask a girl – beg a girl to want to put it together for herself.” So said Los Angeles-based designer Jen Kao of her billowy, skin baring, hippie/jet setter Spring 2014 collection. Continue reading “Jen Kao – Daring Devore Combinations”

Naeem Kahn – Spanish Fire

Naeem Kahn takes us from Madrid to Buenos Aires for a Spring 2014 trip to beautiful. Essential motifs of Latin passion- flamenco, the lace mantilla and bold red roses, are vehicles for the journey. A master of embellishment, Kahn gave a profusion of Chantilly lace, floral embroidery, caviar beading, seed pearls, hand-painted fabric, and metallic appliqué, but he balanced all that with simple silhouettes and a mostly red, black, white and gold color scheme. The effect, though fancy, was never excessive.

story by Lisa-Maria Radano
photos by udor

Naeem Kahn takes us from Madrid to Buenos Aires for a Spring 2014 trip to beautiful. Essential motifs of Latin passion- flamenco, the lace mantilla and bold red roses, are vehicles for the journey. A master of embellishment, Kahn gave a profusion of Chantilly lace, floral embroidery, caviar beading, seed pearls, hand-painted fabric, and metallic appliqué, but he balanced all that with simple silhouettes and a mostly red, black, white and gold color scheme. The effect, though fancy, was never excessive. Continue reading “Naeem Kahn – Spanish Fire”

Jeremy Laing – Rave On, Barbie

Jeremy Laing lives and works in Toronto, where the winter is long and dark, and summer is lovingly referred to as three months of bad sledding. An understandable longing for hot summer days and hotter nights informed his Spring-Summer 2014 collection, shown in New York, where we take heat waves for grumpily granted. When the sprightly young designer was asked to verbally autograph the show moments before it began he chirruped, “its Malibu Beach Barbie goes to a rave!”

story by Lisa-Maria Radano
photos by Charles Beckwith

Jeremy Laing lives and works in Toronto, where the winter is long and dark, and summer is lovingly referred to as three months of bad sledding. An understandable longing for hot summer days and hotter nights informed his Spring-Summer 2014 collection, shown in New York, where we take heat waves for grumpily granted. When the sprightly young designer was asked to verbally autograph the show moments before it began he chirruped, “its Malibu Beach Barbie goes to a rave!” Continue reading “Jeremy Laing – Rave On, Barbie”

Reem Acra – Star Strut

The clear message from Reem Acra for Spring 2014 is get up and dance. There were no backstage discussions of empowering women or clothes conferring confidence for the demands of their busy lives. No, no. Ms. Acra wants her girls to have some fun. Proof was the show started, not with the expected selection of spiffy day looks, but rather with a sparkly detonation of molten, bias cut, and draped party dresses in black, the key shade of night.

story by Lisa-Maria Radano
photos by Charles Beckwith

The clear message from Reem Acra for Spring 2014 is get up and dance. There were no backstage discussions of empowering women or clothes conferring confidence for the demands of their busy lives. No, no. Ms. Acra wants her girls to have some fun. Proof was the show started, not with the expected selection of spiffy day looks, but rather with a sparkly detonation of molten, bias cut, and draped party dresses in black, the key shade of night. Continue reading “Reem Acra – Star Strut”

Helmut Lang – No Corners Cut

“We like the idea that something is constructed and crisp, but at the same time is floaty and easy.” These were the calm and precise words of Nicole Colovos, minutes before presenting the Helmut Lang Spring 2014 collection, which she designed with her husband, Michael Colovos. Crisp. Sharp. Pure. Clean. These were the touchstone words for the collection. The beautiful tension between construction and ease originated in natural fabrics like chintzed silk, twisted linen, and cotton waxed or in simple white shirting. Even the leather, in either matte or perforated treatment, looked cool and comfy, bonded like the wool pieces to soft jersey to create comfortable effortless efficiency.

story by Lisa-Maria Radano
photos by Charles Beckwith

“We like the idea that something is constructed and crisp, but at the same time is floaty and easy.” These were the calm and precise words of Nicole Colovos, minutes before presenting the Helmut Lang Spring 2014 collection, which she designed with her husband, Michael Colovos. Crisp. Sharp. Pure. Clean. These were the touchstone words for the collection. The beautiful tension between construction and ease originated in natural fabrics like chintzed silk, twisted linen, and cotton waxed or in simple white shirting. Even the leather, in either matte or perforated treatment, looked cool and comfy, bonded like the wool pieces to soft jersey to create comfortable effortless efficiency.

Continue reading “Helmut Lang – No Corners Cut”

Cushnie et Ochs – Cut To Reveal

Finding beauty in the tools of bodily constraint was the admitted goal of this Spring 2014 collection by Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs. Straps, buckles and bandages are not very attractive when found in a hospital milieu, but with a bit of alchemy, these elements did a sharp glissade down the knife blade runway of Mistresses Cushnie and Ochs, giving glamour to spare.

story by Lisa-Maria Radano
photos by Charles Beckwith

Finding beauty in the tools of bodily constraint was the admitted goal of this Spring 2014 collection by Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs. Straps, buckles and bandages are not very attractive when found in a hospital milieu, but with a bit of alchemy, these elements did a sharp glissade down the knife blade runway of Mistresses Cushnie and Ochs, giving glamour to spare. Continue reading “Cushnie et Ochs – Cut To Reveal”

Emerson’s Cool Collected Girls

Jackie Fraser Swan’s Fall 2013 collection continued her Emerson brand’s parade of head on her shoulders cool girl staples. It’s a young lively assortment with great color choices, displaying interesting use of patterns and leather. Good fits for environments from classroom to office to cocktail reception. She has a good habit of framing or presenting the neck and shoulders very well.

story and photos by Charles Beckwith

Jackie Fraser Swan’s Fall 2013 collection continued her Emerson brand’s parade of head on her shoulders cool girl staples. It’s a young lively assortment with great color choices, displaying interesting use of patterns and leather. Good fits for environments from classroom to office to cocktail reception. She has a good habit of framing or presenting the neck and shoulders very well. Continue reading “Emerson’s Cool Collected Girls”

Chado Ralph Rucci – Fiercely Innovative Yet Somehow Genteel

It doesn’t happen very often, but occasionally someone in Ralph Rucci’s atelier will forget and hang too many Chado garments on one rack, thus prompting the designer to declare, “No no no. You can’t crowd the girls like this. They can’t breathe.” Never crowd the girls. This avowal might seem charmingly anecdotal, but if you know Rucci, you know he means it quite seriously. Each dress, skirt, gown, coat, or blouse isn’t just alive for him. Every one is adored as a dear friend or even a child, born more than made by not a team but a family. So please. Never crowd the girls.

story by Lisa Radano
photos by udor

It doesn’t happen very often, but occasionally someone in Ralph Rucci’s atelier will forget and hang too many Chado garments on one rack, thus prompting the designer to declare, “No no no. You can’t crowd the girls like this. They can’t breathe.” Never crowd the girls. This avowal might seem charmingly anecdotal, but if you know Rucci, you know he means it quite seriously. Each dress, skirt, gown, coat, or blouse isn’t just alive for him. Every one is adored as a dear friend or even a child, born more than made by not a team but a family. So please. Never crowd the girls.
Continue reading “Chado Ralph Rucci – Fiercely Innovative Yet Somehow Genteel”

Chado Ralph Rucci Up Close In Imperial Colors

Our review of the Fall 2013 Chado Ralph Rucci collection will be published soon, but we had two photographers in very different positions at this show, and so many great pictures of such a long show, it seems odd to edit them down for one article, so here is a special feature that brings you specifically my view from the front row. There are three shows I try to never miss during New York Fashion Week, and I think you’ll see why Mr. Rucci’s remains number one.

text and photos by Charles Beckwith

Our review of the Fall 2013 Chado Ralph Rucci collection will be published soon, but we had two photographers in very different positions at this show, and so many great pictures of such a long show, it seems odd to edit them down for one article, so here is a special feature that brings you specifically my view from the front row. There are three shows I try to never miss during New York Fashion Week, and I think you’ll see why Mr. Rucci’s remains number one. Continue reading “Chado Ralph Rucci Up Close In Imperial Colors”