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Monique Lhuillier – Spring 2012 Review – Making Her Move

There are runway shows in fashion that turn into rare and historic moments in the life of a house or designer. An expectation of what you are about to see at any given show is created by past collections and market reaction. If a designer builds a growing business on a particular signature style over many seasons then you can reasonably expect that, although there will be refinement and occasional experiments, you will get season from season mostly what you have come to know. All rational and reasonable and perfectly proper. But… designers are artists, and artists can revolt against themselves and expectations, exploding suddenly in a bold new direction…

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Adrianna Favero
editing assistant Sierra Baskind

There are runway shows in fashion that turn into rare and historic moments in the life of a house or designer. An expectation of what you are about to see at any given show is created by past collections and market reaction. If a designer builds a growing business on a particular signature style over many seasons then you can reasonably expect that, although there will be refinement and occasional experiments, you will get season from season mostly what you have come to know. All rational and reasonable and perfectly proper. But… designers are artists, and artists can revolt against themselves and expectations, exploding suddenly in a bold new direction. Monique Lhuillier did just that with her unrestrained new Spring Summer 2012 collection. In a radical reinvention, the looks that strutted down the runway were dynamic, sexy, and possessed a swagger not previously seen in her demure, elegant, and floral works of the past. Her talent, creativity and intricacy were not replaced, rather they were unleashed in this brave new expression. Continue reading “Monique Lhuillier – Spring 2012 Review – Making Her Move”

Nicholas K – Spring 2012 Review – Leather Nomad Chic

Brother & sister Nicholas and Chris Kunz, of the New York based label Nicholas K, actually began their journey to the catwalks of New York in the arid air of Tuscon, Arizona. The loose cuts and fine and flowing layers seem a natural outgrowth of life in the heat.This season’s collection continued the growth of this impressive and under-recognized label. Ably helmed with Nicholas as designer and Chris as the business manager, the label is poised for bigger and better things.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Adrianna Favero

Brother & sister Nicholas and Chris Kunz, of the New York based label Nicholas K, actually began their journey to the catwalks of New York in the arid air of Tuscon, Arizona. The loose cuts and fine and flowing layers seem a natural outgrowth of life in the heat.This season’s collection continued the growth of this impressive and under-recognized label. Ably helmed with Nicholas as designer and Chris as the business manager, the label is poised for bigger and better things. Continue reading “Nicholas K – Spring 2012 Review – Leather Nomad Chic”

Vivienne Tam – Spring 2012 Review

Vivienne Tam’s work is complex, subtle, and striking. She will use prints with fringe and embossed edges and it doesn’t feel busy. It’s a remarkable feat that she performs season after season. Her Spring 2012 collection was inspired by the 1970s, and it shows in prints and palette. Pinks, oranges and blues mixed with blacks, whites and tie dyes for a very tranquil feel. There were many 70s tailoring touches which also reinforced the mood. Side slit pockets and thin yokes mixed with bell bottoms, done in a fresh way not a simple copy, embroidered bands, and silk wide and long bow tie collars that hung to the navel, all were drawn from the 1970s and updated with a definitive “Tam touch”.

View the full collection in our Photo Gallery.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Peter Cameron Dominkovits

Vivienne Tam‘s work is complex, subtle, and striking. She will use prints with fringe and embossed edges and it doesn’t feel busy. It’s a remarkable feat that she performs season after season. Her Spring 2012 collection was inspired by the 1970s, and it shows in prints and palette. Pinks, oranges and blues mixed with blacks, whites and tie dyes for a very tranquil feel. There were many 70s tailoring touches which also reinforced the mood. Side slit pockets and thin yokes mixed with bell bottoms, done in a fresh way not a simple copy, embroidered bands, and silk wide and long bow tie collars that hung to the navel, all were drawn from the 1970s and updated with a definitive “Tam touch”. Continue reading “Vivienne Tam – Spring 2012 Review”

Rachel Antonoff – Spring 2012 Review – Wednesday Addams Lives!

Antonoff left no question unanswered when it came to her inspiration of Minnie Mouse fused with Wednesday Addams. The two may be completely polar, but the designer managed to make them completely covalent with polka dot rompers, maxi fruit cup print dresses and see-thru chiffon blouses. Thick eyebrows, glum faces, and pigtails complimented her pieces as the models stared into the souls of onlookers. Bold. Enchanting. Utterly haunting.

View the full collection in our Photo Gallery.

story by Landon Peoples
photos by Aya & Ned Rosen

Designer Rachel Antonoff

When asked to describe a typical night in the Antonoff Manor, her Spring 2012 collection, ready-to-wear designer Rachel Antonoff easily exclaimed, “well, they’re getting ready to murder off their pets and they’re preparing their pet cemetery. I think they’re being really creepy in there.” How’s that for innocent? Antonoff left no question unanswered when it came to her inspiration of Minnie Mouse fused with Wednesday Addams. The two may be completely polar, but the designer managed to make them completely covalent with polka dot rompers, maxi fruit cup print dresses and see-thru chiffon blouses. Thick eyebrows, glum faces, and pigtails complimented her pieces as the models stared into the souls of onlookers. Bold. Enchanting. Utterly haunting. Continue reading “Rachel Antonoff – Spring 2012 Review – Wednesday Addams Lives!”

Sachin and Babi – Spring 2012 – Modern Indian Textiles Meet 70’s American Glam

Sachin + Babi’s Spring 2012 collection is inspired by 70’s glam rocker women Bianca Jagger, Grace Jones and Faye Dunaway, incorporated by use of “similar aesthetic and similar looks, but more relevant to our wardrobe now,” says co-designer Babi Ahluwalia. The color palate consisted of bright oranges, pinks, and metallic is an ode to the couple’s Indian heritage and origin. For years Sachin + Babi have provided textiles to some of Fashion’s top designers, and their resources and understanding of that product showed through here as well as ever in this most recent collection.

View the full collection in our Photo Gallery.

story by Ashley Roberts
photos by Ned & Aya Rosen

Sachin + Babi’s Spring 2012 collection is inspired by 70’s glam rocker women Bianca Jagger, Grace Jones and Faye Dunaway, these icons are incorporated by use of “similar aesthetic and similar looks, but more relevant to our wardrobe now,” says co-designer Babi Ahluwalia. The color palate consisted of bright oranges, pinks, and metallic is an ode to the couple’s Indian heritage and origin. For years Sachin + Babi have provided textiles to some of Fashion’s top designers, and their resources and understanding of that product showed through here as well as ever in their most recent collection. Continue reading “Sachin and Babi – Spring 2012 – Modern Indian Textiles Meet 70’s American Glam”

Mackage – Spring 2012 Review – Softened For Spring

Mackage designers Eran Elfassy and Elisa Dahan love structure and that ardour has served them well as the brand has expanded strongly and successfully into ready-to-wear over the past few seasons. The lighter fabrics and looser fits of a wardrobe for spring and summer can pose a strong challenge to that type of designer, especially when you have a background in designing outerwear which tends to be very constructed. Striking the balance between the needs of a warm weather wardrobe and a designer’s desire to dictate how fabric moves can be tricky, Elfassy and Dahan haven’t done much of this before, so the Spring 2012 collection was very interesting to see.

View the full collection in our Photo Gallery.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Aeric Meredith-Goujon

Mackage designers Eran Elfassy and Elisa Dahan

Mackage designers Eran Elfassy and Elisa Dahan love structure and that ardour has served them well as the brand has expanded strongly and successfully into ready-to-wear over the past few seasons. The lighter fabrics and looser fits of a wardrobe for spring and summer can pose a strong challenge to that type of designer, especially when you have a background in designing outerwear which tends to be very constructed. Striking the balance between the needs of a warm weather wardrobe and a designer’s desire to dictate how fabric moves can be tricky, Elfassy and Dahan haven’t done much of this before, so the Spring 2012 collection was very interesting to see for long-time admirers.

Continue reading “Mackage – Spring 2012 Review – Softened For Spring”

Karolina Zmarlak – Spring 2012 Review – Drawing From Source

If the fact that 90 percent of her pieces are convertible, affordable, and completely innovative isn’t convincing enough to dub this Polish designer a tailoring genius, maybe the fact that she combines chiffon with horsehair will put any confused resistance to rest. Karolina Zmarlak’s Spring 2012 collection is a look into her past, turning memories into clothing with the use of horsehair, structural jackets, and ethereal tunics. The creation of this collection served as an outlet for the designer to release all of the pent up creativity she couldn’t otherwise put to the drawing board during her childhood.

story by Landon Peoples
photos by Aeric Meredith-Goujon

See the full collection in our Photo Gallery.

If the fact that 90 percent of her pieces are convertible, affordable, and completely innovative isn’t convincing enough to dub this Polish designer a tailoring genius, maybe the fact that she combines chiffon with horsehair will put any confused resistance to rest. Karolina Zmarlak’s Spring 2012 collection is a look into her past, turning memories into clothing with the use of horsehair, structural jackets, and ethereal tunics. The creation of this collection served as an outlet for the designer to release all of the pent up creativity she couldn’t otherwise put to the drawing board during her childhood. Continue reading “Karolina Zmarlak – Spring 2012 Review – Drawing From Source”

Odilon by Stacey Clark – Spring 2012 Review – Refined but Rad

This new season at Odilon is a fair departure from fall. Taking off from dark colors and draping coats lands fresh whites and strips of sunny yellow. Suitable given Canadian designer Stacey Clark’s, “Finally embracing living in the L.A. sunshine.” Also bathed in grassy green and deep sea blues, Odilon’s Spring 2012 collection was inspired by 90’s Venice Beach, skate shirts (Ms. Clark has a white skateboard herself, which was waiting backstage), and the musical likes of Courtney Love, Kim Gordon, Kurt Cobain and Pavement.

story by Dana Varon
photos by Ned and Aya Rosen

View the full collection in our Photo Gallery.

This new season at Odilon is a fair departure from fall. Taking off from dark colors and draping coats lands fresh whites and strips of sunny yellow. Suitable given Canadian designer Stacey Clark’s, “finally embracing living in the L.A. sunshine.” Also bathed in grassy green and deep sea blues, Odilon’s Spring 2012 collection was inspired by 90’s Venice Beach, skate shirts (Ms. Clark has a white skateboard herself, which was waiting backstage), and the musical likes of Courtney Love, Kim Gordon, Kurt Cobain and Pavement. Continue reading “Odilon by Stacey Clark – Spring 2012 Review – Refined but Rad”

Special Preview – Copperwheat Spring 2012 Collection

Ben and Lee Copperwheat do not believe in wallflowers or in clothes that pander to the faint of heart. Even the most cursory glance at their line can tell you that much about their design style. This new collection is a bit of a turning point for the both the brand and its designers.

story and photography by Adrianna Favero
graphic design by Aya Rosen
print designs by Ben Copperwheat
hair and makeup by Kristy Strate
stylist Soukena Roussi
styling assistant Ashley Roberts
models are Lawrence Annunziata (Identities) and Caesar Stoval (RED)

Ben and Lee Copperwheat do not believe in wallflowers or in clothes that pander to the faint of heart. Even the most cursory glance at their line can tell you that much about their design style. This new collection is a bit of a turning point for the both the brand and its designers. After two seasons of energetic and challenging designs, that while captivating seemed to mystify buyers, the duo decided to follow the torrent of advice to produce a more market-friendly collection for Fall 2011. Unfortunately, this paradigm shift failed to yield any real results and deepen their market penetration. And so, for Spring 2012 these two brave Englishmen are tossing out the rules entirely and doing things their way. Continue reading “Special Preview – Copperwheat Spring 2012 Collection”

Lindsay Degen – Spring 2012 Review

Looking at Lindsay Degen’s thesis designs from the fine art textiles program at RISD can make one wonder what her more serious line would look like. Luckily her professional debut lingerie collection, Degen, is not too austere.

Designer Lindsay Degen

story by Dana Varon
photos by Ned and Aya Rosen

You can see the full show in our Photo Gallery.

Looking at Lindsay Degen’s thesis designs from the fine art textiles program at RISD can make one wonder what her more serious line would look like. Luckily her professional debut lingerie collection, Degen, is not too austere.

Continue reading “Lindsay Degen – Spring 2012 Review”