La Perla – Shades of Spain

La Perla is a venerable 60 year old Italian company, beloved internationally, but revered domestically – and especially adored in its hometown of Bologna. Creative Director Giovanni Bianchi, also from Bologna, has established himself at the design helm for several seasons. Passion, sensuality, and romance are words that are sprinkled liberally over any dish of Italian identity. In fact, Italians consider themselves ambassadors of these ideals, and their commensurate talent for all things stylish seemingly goes right down to the DNA.

story by Lisa Radano
photos by Charles Beckwith

La Perla is a venerable 60 year old Italian company, beloved internationally, but revered domestically – and especially adored in its hometown of Bologna. Creative Director Giovanni Bianchi, also from Bologna, has established himself at the design helm for several seasons. Passion, sensuality, and romance are words that are sprinkled liberally over any dish of Italian identity. In fact, Italians consider themselves ambassadors of these ideals, and their commensurate talent for all things stylish seemingly goes right down to the DNA. Continue reading “La Perla – Shades of Spain”

Katie Gallagher’s Frozen Memories

The room was dark, a-tonal, screeching wails transmitted by the D.J. pervaded the small space, and an eager crowd squeezed past a long platform atop which a double row of models stood still, frozen in the gloom. This was the scene at Katie Gallagher’s Fall 2013 presentation, aptly named “The Winter That Froze You Away.” With clothes bleakly named “Tundra Dress,” “Mourn Jacket,” and the especially harsh sounding “Frostbite Bodysuit,” one might assume melancholy or a bad case of S.A.D. had overcome the young R.I.S.D. graduate. She spoke about her search for the balance between autobiographical expression and universal appeal – and no matter the grim visions which may have pervaded her process, what resulted was a selection of 16 warm and wearable garments.

story by Lisa Radano
photos by Charles Beckwith

The room was dark, a-tonal, screeching wails transmitted by the D.J. pervaded the small space, and an eager crowd squeezed past a long platform atop which a double row of models stood still, frozen in the gloom. This was the scene at Katie Gallagher’s Fall 2013 presentation, aptly named “The Winter That Froze You Away.” With clothes bleakly named “Tundra Dress,” “Mourn Jacket,” and the especially harsh sounding “Frostbite Bodysuit,” one might assume melancholy or a bad case of S.A.D. had overcome the young R.I.S.D. graduate. She spoke about her search for the balance between autobiographical expression and universal appeal – and no matter the grim visions which may have pervaded her process, what resulted was a selection of 16 warm and wearable garments. Continue reading “Katie Gallagher’s Frozen Memories”

Tia Cibani – A Rising Star Raising Eyebrows

After many successful seasons designing for Ports 1961, Tia Cibani set off to define and establish her own unique voice. I asked her how that felt, and her measured answer spoke to both sides of the question. “In a way, it’s all very new, but at the same time this isn’t my first collection. So, I feel very comfortable, but it’s also scary.” The combination of confidence and vulnerability Cibani experienced while designing her second namesake collection is expressed in the clothes themselves, quite directly in fact.

story by Lisa Radano
photos by Charles Beckwith

After many successful seasons designing for Ports 1961, Tia Cibani set off to define and establish her own unique voice. I asked her how that felt, and her measured answer spoke to both sides of the question. “In a way, it’s all very new, but at the same time this isn’t my first collection. So, I feel very comfortable, but it’s also scary.” The combination of confidence and vulnerability Cibani experienced while designing her second namesake collection is expressed in the clothes themselves, quite directly in fact. Continue reading “Tia Cibani – A Rising Star Raising Eyebrows”

Degen Is Down With Something

What was Lindsay Degen’s inspiration for her Fall 2013 collection? Initial research revealed her usual knitted and crocheted silhouette of crop tops or tunics over leggings were this season embellished with colorful yarn nubs, twigs, pods and jagged strands. Field interviews provided additional data as to the source material for these peculiar and specific decorations, further indicated by the show’s title, “The Doctor,” and the assorted garment names; “Rare Strain Pants,” “Germ Shorts,” “Virus Sweater Dress,” “Platelet T,” and my favorite: “Yuck Sweater.”

story by Lisa Radano
photos by Charles Beckwith

What was Lindsay Degen’s inspiration for her Fall 2013 collection? Initial research revealed her usual knitted and crocheted silhouette of crop tops or tunics over leggings were this season embellished with colorful yarn nubs, twigs, pods and jagged strands. Field interviews provided additional data as to the source material for these peculiar and specific decorations, further indicated by the show’s title, “The Doctor,” and the assorted garment names; “Rare Strain Pants,” “Germ Shorts,” “Virus Sweater Dress,” “Platelet T,” and my favorite: “Yuck Sweater.” Continue reading “Degen Is Down With Something”

Badgley Mischka In The Forest

“What angel wakes me from my flowery bed?” asked Titiana in A Midsummer Night’s Dream. For Spring 2013, Mssrs. Badgley and Mishka gave us forty angels, faeries, and princesses in this show inspired by the pastoral frivolity of Shakespeare’s play. The fabulous English model Erin O’Connor commenced the enchantment, strutting languidly down the runway in a blush crepe jumpsuit, one of the few pants looks, and surely one of the least embellished. What followed was a charming range of pretty knee length dresses and skirts in brocade, chiffon, lace and organza, shot with gold and silver, several with the duos’ signature sweetheart neckline.

story by Lisa Radano
photos by udor

“What angel wakes me from my flowery bed?” asked Titiana in A Midsummer Night’s Dream. For Spring 2013, Mssrs. Badgley and Mishka gave us forty angels, faeries, and princesses in this show inspired by the pastoral frivolity of Shakespeare’s play. The fabulous English model Erin O’Connor commenced the enchantment, strutting languidly down the runway in a blush crepe jumpsuit, one of the few pants looks, and surely one of the least embellished. What followed was a charming range of pretty knee length dresses and skirts in brocade, chiffon, lace and organza, shot with gold and silver, several with the duos’ signature sweetheart neckline. Continue reading “Badgley Mischka In The Forest”

Emerson – The Outsider’s View

In full disclosure, I have to mention that I am very fond of Jackie Fraser Swan, the designer of Emerson. We speak fairly often and I think she’s one of the bright young lights in fashion that I am really pulling for. That is why I was briefly concerned with a small section of her Spring 2013 collection as it came down the runway at Lincoln Center. Mrs. Fraser-Swan drew upon the 1970s as her inspiration, and a few of the looks were too literal. Inspiration is often tricky for a young designer; out of affection for a person, place, or time, they copy instead of create. Fortunately, this was only the case with a very few of her creations, and the majority of the collection was fun, flirty, creative, and very aggressive.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Rachel Renee

In full disclosure, I have to mention that I am very fond of Jackie Fraser Swan, the designer of Emerson. We speak fairly often and I think she’s one of the bright young lights in fashion that I am really pulling for. That is why I was briefly concerned with a small section of her Spring 2013 collection as it came down the runway at Lincoln Center. Mrs. Fraser-Swan drew upon the 1970s as her inspiration, and a few of the looks were too literal. Inspiration is often tricky for a young designer; out of affection for a person, place, or time, they copy instead of create. Fortunately, this was only the case with a very few of her creations, and the majority of the collection was fun, flirty, creative, and very aggressive. Continue reading “Emerson – The Outsider’s View”

Diego Binetti Serves The Deep

Diego Binetti never met a flowing fabric he didn’t love. Romantic, free, and deeply beautiful gowns are what he does best. As he has told me many times, his women are goddesses, and that spirit shows through in this Spring 2013 collection. Awash in bright colors and luxurious silks, the models well represented the designer’s ocean deity theme.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Morgan Miller (house)

Diego Binetti never met a flowing fabric he didn’t love. Romantic, free, and deeply beautiful gowns are what he does best. As he has told me many times, his women are goddesses, and that spirit shows through in this Spring 2013 collection. Awash in bright colors and luxurious silks, the models well represented the designer’s ocean deity theme. Continue reading “Diego Binetti Serves The Deep”

Yeohlee – More From Less, It Ain’t Easy

Yeohlee Teng was born in Malaysia and has been an independent designer for over thirty years. She doesn’t supplement sales by designing underwear or making perfume. She uses quality materials and her brand doesn’t outsource work, it’s all made in New York. How she has survived for so long, remained sought after, won awards (Smithsonian Cooper-Hewitt National Design 2004), and kept relevant is a testament to her talent, intelligence, beliefs, and most of all her guts.

story by Lisa Radano
photos by Adrianna Favero

Yeohlee Teng was born in Malaysia and has been an independent designer for over thirty years. She doesn’t supplement sales by designing underwear or making perfume. She uses quality materials and her brand doesn’t outsource work, it’s all made in New York. How she has survived for so long, remained sought after, won awards (Smithsonian Cooper-Hewitt National Design 2004), and kept relevant is a testament to her talent, intelligence, beliefs, and most of all her guts. Continue reading “Yeohlee – More From Less, It Ain’t Easy”

Marchesa In Matrimony

It was nearly sunset in a loft suspended above the Hudson, which sparkled like the flutes of Dom Perignon offered as a gesture of matrimonial indulgence to all of us lucky enough to attend Marchesa’s Fall 2013 Bridal show. Ms. Chapman and Ms. Craig are well known for amply providing the red carpet with their opulent balance of draping and design. Their white carpet is just as glamorous, yet slightly more vulnerable – fragile yet bold at the core.

story by Lisa Radano
photos by Charles Beckwith

It was nearly sunset in a loft suspended above the Hudson, which sparkled like the flutes of Dom Perignon offered as a gesture of matrimonial indulgence to all of us lucky enough to attend Marchesa’s Fall 2013 Bridal show. Ms. Chapman and Ms. Craig are well known for amply providing the red carpet with their opulent balance of draping and design. Their white carpet is just as glamorous, yet slightly more vulnerable – fragile yet bold at the core. Continue reading “Marchesa In Matrimony”

Badgley Mischka’s Heavenly Brides

The first gown out at Badgely Mischka’s fall 2013 Bridal show was named “Heavenly,” and celestial inspiration was abundant throughout the ethereal collection. The Mark Badgley and James Mischka design duo’s gift for enhancing classic silhouettes with intricate embellishment was tendered with a light and charming touch. Crystals and gold bouillon sparkled their way around waists, across bodices, and along panels, as if washed ashore by a glittering sea, or like stars revealed by passing clouds.

story by Lisa Radano
photos by Charles Beckwith

The first gown out at Badgely Mischka’s fall 2013 Bridal show was named “Heavenly,” and celestial inspiration was abundant throughout the ethereal collection. The Mark Badgley and James Mischka design duo’s gift for enhancing classic silhouettes with intricate embellishment was tendered with a light and charming touch. Crystals and gold bouillon sparkled their way around waists, across bodices, and along panels, as if washed ashore by a glittering sea, or like stars revealed by passing clouds. Continue reading “Badgley Mischka’s Heavenly Brides”