Author: archive

The Blonds – Fall 2011

Bejeweled corsets, cat suits, kimonos, silk dresses and fringed silk skirts caressed the bodies of anvil- tressed mannequins on the runway at Milk Studios in New York. Anna May Wong, eat your heart out, with golden chopsticks!

story by Carmella bella McDonald
photos by Ned and Aya Rosen

It’s true, evidently, that “Blonds” have more fun, especially when you’re talking about Phillipe and David Blond, the downtown dynamic duo of glam slam glitter couture. Their dazzling collaboration should be familiar to anyone who’s seen a music video in the last five years. There are no more stars in the heavens than have strutted their way on stage in their sparkling and spectacular masterpieces. Continue reading “The Blonds – Fall 2011”

Blanc de Chine – Photo Feature

Silk is first and foremost a Chinese fabric. It has been stolen, reproduced, and exported, but the greatest silk art and craft still belong to China, as do its most ancient secrets. Blanc De Chine depends upon every ounce of tradition and skill that their artisans possess.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Adrianna Favero
styling by Seth Friedermann
hair by Annie Olivia
makeup by Ruthie Weems
model Natalie from Elite

Good tradition does not prevent innovation, it preserves the space in which it flourishes. Blanc De Chine is a classic Chinese silk house with deep roots in the art of silk and Chinese tailoring. Silk is first and foremost a Chinese fabric. It has been stolen, reproduced, and exported, but the greatest silk art and craft still belong to China, as do its most ancient secrets. Blanc De Chine depends upon every ounce of tradition and skill that their artisans possess. It is their intimate understanding of the fabric and the thousands of years old techniques that allow them to imagine and create silks that no one else in the world has. Continue reading “Blanc de Chine – Photo Feature”

Michael Angel – A Palette of Passion – Photo Feature

Michael Angel has literally been seeing colors in his head since he was a child.

story and styling by Seth Friedermann
photos by Ned and Aya Rosen
makeup by Laura Stiassni
hair styling by Marisa Bollman
model Jamie Gunns from Ford Model Management

Australian-born designer Michael Angel is building a substantial body of work. Heading now into his eleventh season, his play with colored prints has become a known signature to those in the fashion know. It’s impressive how season after season he creates clothing that bares his bold and beautiful stamp, yet each successive collection is infused with a freshness and feels unique and new. To some extent the cuts and treatments of his designs aid in creating that feeling, but it’s primarily the fact that he is solely internally inspired that allows him to do this. Michael Angel has literally been seeing colors in his head since he was a child. “I come from a very visual childhood. When I was younger I used to see colors in dreams, and I would always have the same kind of dreams, where I would see colors intertwined with each or meshed up together, and I would wake up and think what the hell was that?” His choices in how the colors interplay, or are shaped or focused, is part of the emotional impact of each piece from a collection. This is because he makes those choices based on how it hits him. “I’m very affected by color. It makes me happy, it makes me sad, it moves me, it makes me feel.” Continue reading “Michael Angel – A Palette of Passion – Photo Feature”

Sunghee Bang – Fall 2011

Sunghee Bang’s Fall 2011 collection one again put her different imaginative take on both form and function on display. The garments showcased complex knits and leathers that used a large grain but were traditionally treated and normally finished. This created a unique feel and look which serves as a fine example of what makes Sunghee Bang’s designs special.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Aeric Meredith-Goujon

Sunghee Bang’s Fall 2011 collection once again put her different imaginative take on both form and function on display. The garments showcased complex knits and leathers that used a large grain but were traditionally treated and normally finished. This created a unique feel and look which serves as a fine example of what makes Sunghee Bang’s designs special. Ms. Bang’s different experience with clothing and fashion has created a very distinct sense of fashion design. Continue reading “Sunghee Bang – Fall 2011”

Mackage – Fall 2011

Mackage designers Eran Elfassy and Elisa Dahan have a slightly different working relationship. “I’ll draw a little bit”, says Mr. Elfassy, “and then she’ll grab my paper and erase and I’ll say why did you change that? And she’ll say, ‘because I hate it!’ And then we keep going, and eventually we both love it.” The label’s continuing expansion from outerwear into ready to wear has broadened into the field even further with their Fall 2011 collection.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Freda Henry

Mackage designers Eran Elfassy and Elisa Dahan have a slightly different working relationship. “I’ll draw a little bit”, says Mr. Elfassy, “and then she’ll grab my paper and erase and I’ll say why did you change that? And she’ll say, ‘because I hate it!’ And then we keep going, and eventually we both love it.” The label’s continuing expansion from outerwear into ready to wear has broadened into  the field even further with their Fall 2011 collection.

Continue reading “Mackage – Fall 2011”

Frank Tell – Fall 2011

The act of executing a fashion collection as primarily a display of art is a fearless undertaking. Frank Tell’s Fall 2011 collection was primitive, a stripped down show of the purest forms and functionality. The raw skins and heavy layers mixed with loosely constructed dresses and blouses to project a raw and visceral impact.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Freda Henry

The act of executing a fashion collection as primarily a display of art is a fearless undertaking. Frank Tell’s Fall 2011 collection was primitive, a stripped down show of the purest forms and functionality. The raw skins and heavy layers mixed with loosely constructed dresses and blouses to project a raw and visceral impact. Continue reading “Frank Tell – Fall 2011”

A’Detacher – Fall 2011

story by Aya Rosen
photos by Ned and Aya Rosen

The name A’Detacher means to be detached, or to detach things from one another. It fits perfectly with Mona Kowalska’s style, which every season manages to be very true to what she chooses to express rather than the current trends or any seasonal style. However, this year, many of A’Detacher’s signature motifs seem to be almost trendy– big shoulders, buggy pants, high waist lines, and color blocks which the designer has been including in her garments for years, these things were pretty high up in other shows, some of the very major labels. Continue reading “A’Detacher – Fall 2011”

Jose Duran – Fall 2011

Duran’s vision is a clever play on these historical themes. His designs included chunky layers of woolen tartans, split jackets, twisted turbans, and pooling silken transparent gowns. His monochromatic use of grays and blacks recall the historical black and white images of these unsung heroines.

story by Carmella Bella McDonald
photos by Charles Beckwith

Dominican Republic-born designer Jose Duran returns to New York Fashion Week with a historically-inspired show that deals with gender and androgyny, based on the mid-Victorian Pit Brow lasses; women who dressed in mannish attire and flaunted traditional female roles in order to support their impoverished families during the Industrial Revolution. During this period, women were prohibited from working in the coalmines of Great Britain. In order to support their families, women camouflaged their gender, wearing such non-traditional clothing as trousers, short skirts, mannish boots, and caps, they forged a life for themselves and their families.

Duran’s vision is a clever play on these historical themes. His designs included chunky layers of woolen tartans, split jackets, twisted turbans, and pooling silken transparent gowns. His monochromatic use of grays and blacks recall the historical black and white images of these unsung heroines.

Continue reading “Jose Duran – Fall 2011”

Odyn Vovk – Fall 2011

The bad boy, the rebel, the loner living by his own rules. This great icon of culture needs a serious wardrobe, a different type of wardrobe to fit that very different style. Enter the designer Austin Sherbanenko and label Odyn Vovk.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Stephen F. Bodi

The bad boy, the rebel, the loner living by his own rules. This great icon of culture needs a serious wardrobe, a different type of wardrobe to fit that very different style. Enter the designer Austin Sherbanenko and label Odyn Vovk. Continue reading “Odyn Vovk – Fall 2011”

Study NY – Fall 2011

Ms. St. James is very experienced with textiles, not only in sourcing but down to the weft and warp level of creation. This collection could be easily worn for work or casual events, and I’d be fascinated to see what she would do with formal evening attire.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Stephen F. Bodi

Tara St. James’ Study New York collection for Fall 2011 was full of details and different ways of creating visual interest. There’s a myth in popular culture that great fashion design is extravagant. Great design in fashion or in anything is determined by two key factors: does it do its intended purpose exceptionally well and does it provide a positive user experience? That’s it, that’s what makes great fashion. There are, of course, a number of factors that can help attain that standard, and this collection exercised quite a few of them. Continue reading “Study NY – Fall 2011”