archive – Page 28

Blanc De Chine – Fall 2011

Blanc De Chine tends to take classical Chinese tailoring, such as mandarin collars and the like, and update them with little twists and turns. That’s just part of their story however, what Blanc De Chine does best is simple elegant and often dramatic silk clothes.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Shawn Punch
(photos provided by Blanc de Chine)

What is classic and iconic in one culture’s fashion is often unknown in others’. This creates the opportunity for a revolutionary feeling, when that classic look is exported to a new land. Remember the Nehru Jacket in the mid-60s? This is supposedly the age of Asian ascendancy, the old “Far East” is showing signs of becoming the new center, and the Asian aesthetic and Asian designers have more eyes on them than ever before. Somehow though, the tremendous work from Blanc De Chine has gone largely unnoticed. There is no artistic reason for this, as their work is consistently strong from season to season, and this season was no different. Continue reading “Blanc De Chine – Fall 2011”

NAHM – Fall 2011

The collection is a delicious descent into fashion madness.

story by Carmella Bella McDonald
photos by Adrianna Favero

NAHM collaborating designers Nary Manivong and Ally Hilfiger (daughter of veteran designer Tommy Hilfiger) showed a morbidly sophisticated collection which arrived on black wings in a breath of coffin dust. Inspired by Gothic prince Edgar Allen Poe’s poem, “The Raven,” as Mr. Manivong serenely stated, “we took everything from this poem: the colors, the emotions, the feelings for our theme, collection today.” Continue reading “NAHM – Fall 2011”

Logan Neitzel – Fall 2011

story by Dana Varon
photos by Aeric Meredith-Goujon

Logan Neizel is known for a lot of things; his Project Runway stint, his boyish good looks, his rock and roll semblance– well, he is all of that, but has moved on way past his Project Runway days, though he feels it was where he was supposed to be then. Now he shows what he can do with leather showcasing neck and wrist cuffs with long, hanging fringes, bandeau, little mini skirts solo and also with attached swatches of long, flowing black or red chiffon, He additionally adds a pop of color with red pieces of leather patches on black leggings (available in all black too) and a red/black stringy yarn type throw-over. Neitzel told me of his influence when he lived in Seattle seeing music and listening to rock which seems to creep into his designs in a modern way and garner his attitude towards leather– which he feels should become your own like an old hole-y rock tee that just gets better and better with wear. So true. This louche look is evident in his pieces, including his own waist-dangling fox-tail. It was also evident in the punk soundtrack backstage and incense infused air out front. These are pieces anyone can pick up to add their own edge – no matter what they’re wearing. Continue reading “Logan Neitzel – Fall 2011”

Byron Lars – Fall 2011

Lars pulled off a charcoal tweed sheath dress with button back fishtail detail that was sexy, classy, and beautiful all-in-one. Another breathtaking piece was an ivory tribal lace powder puff bustier dress, chic and elegant but fun to wear. All of the pieces were well-constructed and well-tailored.

story by Kerry Kong
photos by Freda Henry

Being away from New York Fashion Week for about 15 years, Byron Lars, a designer with two decades of experience, came back and showed what a real experience fashion should be in his fall 2011 presentation. Walking into the show, we could hear tribal drum playing in the background and, bang, the whole jungle was right in front of us! Inspired by his trip to a Native American Museum, Lars wanted to take us to a “Native Americana” journey this season. He described this collection as “clothes that feel connected to the earth,” and they included a silver glaze cocoon coat, a black and ivory tangled reed mesh twist neck sheath, and a bark faux shearling coat. Continue reading “Byron Lars – Fall 2011”

Academy of Art University – Fall 2011

For 10 seasons the San Francisco art school has been bringing its graduate students to New York Fashion Week for their chance to shine. This season there were seven collections showcased by different designers, all with distinct and diverse approaches.

story by Kerry Kong
photos by Adrianna Favero

Thinking of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, which designer names pop up in your mind? DKNY? Michael Kors? Ralph Lauren? How about Academy of Art University? For 10 seasons the San Francisco art school has been bringing its graduate students to New York Fashion Week for their chance to shine. This season there were seven collections showcased by different designers, all with distinct and diverse approaches. Continue reading “Academy of Art University – Fall 2011”

Designer Dossier: Zoe Twitt

Australian-born but certainly a child of the world, 26 year-old fashion designer Zoe Twitt has been garnering a steadily growing number of eyes for her designs each season.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Adrianna Favero

Australian-born but certainly a child of the world, 26 year-old fashion designer Zoe Twitt has been garnering a steadily growing number of eyes for her designs each season. What draws us to Zoe, even though it is so early in her career, is difficult to pin down. It’s partially because the leap in sophistication of concept and execution between her Fall 2010 and her Spring 2011 collections was so great, but that’s not entirely it. She designs what she’s feeling at the time. Her work mirrors her with an intimate closeness that creates a vulnerability to her as a designer that makes her very engaging. This also makes her collections vary greatly from season to season, which is a very special kind of fashion daring, but perhaps sound because the core of each collection is Zoe herself. The collection you see in this shoot is from a romantic young woman touched by romance. It is an artistic expression of her heart and mind. Zoe has a powerful combination of imagination and technical skills. She does all of the unique touches and shows the kind of quality workmanship that makes her a designer to be taken seriously. Continue reading “Designer Dossier: Zoe Twitt”

Jolibe – Fall 2011

The First Lady wore a Jolibe piece on her Christmas vacation and it created a nice buzz for the brand. However, it is the couple’s imagination, talent and savvy that will most certainly carry Jolibe into the future of American fashion.

Writer: Seth Friedermann
Photographer: Adrianna Favero

Joel Diaz and Christina La Pens’ Fall 2011 collection continued the striking new direction they forged last season. While they continue to maintain their trademark of manipulating fabric through imaginative construction and technique into unique and stunning shapes, they now do so in garments that are very easy to wear and integrate into your existing wardrobe. The challenge of the marketplace is sometimes very good for designers. It doesn’t always force them into some sort of hackneyed compromise, designers can use their imagination to re-envision how they express their own core design principles while still maintaining integrity and finding expressions that are retail-friendly, yet still very much their own. Continue reading “Jolibe – Fall 2011”

Farah Angsana – Fall 2011

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Freda Henry

Farah Angsana’s Fall 2011 collection was not for the meek. They never are, but this season had an even more defiant feel to it. Her clothes are for rich extravagant party girls who make no apology for the fact that they are rich extravagant party girls. Embroidery has always been one of Mrs. Angsana’s signatures, but embroidery itself is not all that uncommon amongst luxury clothing designers. What makes her work shine out and on is that she edits it perfectly. Her gowns and dresses never become overburdened with adornments and never come across as garish. The early part of the collection was dominated by blacks and silvers, which fits in perfectly with what you expect from a Farah Angsana collection. The end of the collection found her toning down the fancy needlework a bit and letting a beautiful series of blues, purples, browns, and a dash of red carried her message of bold glamor in beautiful luxurious fabrics. The show-stopping white ethereal gown with feather piping caused the crowd’s pulse to quicken and brought perfect closure to a solid collection. When you’re out at the palace this fall and the sight of a girl glittering and shimmering makes you go a bit weak in the knees, strong chance Farah Angsana gave her a helping hand. Continue reading “Farah Angsana – Fall 2011”

Jeremy Laing – Fall 2011

The moonscape print long jersey dress appeared to get the most cameras attention, well-fit and sexy. Another stunning and eye-catching piece was a silk tulle cowled column dress with a hand of glory on the chest. The suits in Mr Laing’s collection also showcased his architectural talents with his precise cuts. Overall it was a very nicely-constructed and sophisticated collection.

story by Kerry Kong
photos by Aeric Meredith-Goujon

It is interesting to note that if you photograph into the light a person who is facing away from a bright window, the light that finds its way onto their skin looks more than a little bit like moonlight. Dualities exist in nature and legend and design, and it is in their contrast that we often find the most fascinating ideas. Toronto-based designer Jeremy Laing, known for a use of heavily geometric ideas in his work, recently found himself preoccupied with ideas about the winter equinox and the lunar eclipses, and from this he has produced a Fall 2011 collection that references binary notions of moon and sun. Much as Luna and Sol don’t appear together in the sky very often, when they do it is oddly stimulating and somewhat awe-inspiring, and it really works beautifully into what he has created. Continue reading “Jeremy Laing – Fall 2011”

Tim Hamilton – Fall 2011

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Adrianna Favero

Tim Hamilton is sort of rare item as a designer. Yes, he does both womenswear and menswear, but he does more men’s than women’s, which is fairly unusual. His aesthetic works equally well on both sexes, mostly because of his tailoring, which is loose, easy, and is very comfortable. As you can see from our photos, though, it is not unstructured or slouchy. This is not cheap clothing. What a Tim Hamilton design is that makes it unique and worth the money, is bold. Mr. Hamilton’s work always smacks of a defiance which makes it turn heads. This season his exceptional prints and splendid trousers carried the weight of that message flawlessly. There’s a subversiveness to his work that makes him really enjoyable to cover season after season. So the checklist: high quality fabrics… check, tremendous fit and finish…check, distinctive and rebellious… check. It’s official… Tim Hamilton is cool. Continue reading “Tim Hamilton – Fall 2011”