Shows and Events – Page 16

Buckler – Spring 2012 Review – Boys On The Street

Bustling down the closed-off Gansevoort Street are Andrew Buckler’s boys for Spring 2012, a brooding bunch baring seasonal basics.The designer set out to “keep things very simple this season, and turned away from doing too much layering in summer,” adding, “you just don’t do that, it’s boiling.” Boiling it was, both on the temperature and clothing meters. The clothes fit right in on the hot September afternoon, with light linen, gauzy sweaters, just past the knee slim and droopy shorts, and drop-crotch pants with tapered bottoms and cuffs.

story by Dana Varon
color photos by Stephen F. Bodi
b&w photos by Dana Varon

Bustling down the closed-off Gansevoort Street are Andrew Buckler‘s boys for Spring 2012, a brooding bunch baring seasonal basics.The designer set out to “keep things very simple this season, and turned away from doing too much layering in summer,” adding, “you just don’t do that, it’s boiling.” Boiling it was, both on the temperature and clothing meters. The clothes fit right in on the hot September afternoon, with light linen, gauzy sweaters, just past the knee slim and droopy shorts, and drop-crotch pants with tapered bottoms and cuffs.

Lightweight tailored windbreakers and “summer-weight” leather jackets with stitched-on leather sleeves followed. Standouts on the street were the super-soft t-shirt and barely distinguishable matching vest, separate hood scarves, and sleeveless shirt with attached hood alike. Much of the softness of the fabric is due to, “a cotton viscose blend, ” that Mr. Buckler used, wanting this collection to be looser and feels his collections have become more so over time.

Though his inspiration was taken from Industrialization and stalwart structures in New York, they are paralleled by a refined easiness. Hence, the array of worn-in but well-made garments in washed out green, navy, black, grey white and stripes. Crinkled collared shirts, painted white denim, mixed brass and silver chains and zippers added a gang of grunge. A little gritty, a little graceful, the downtown dinginess derailed to decadent duds.

Logan Neitzel – Spring 2012 Review – Rock & Recluse

Logan Neitzel continues to refine his vision with his “Recluse Collection,” Spring 2012 ready-to-wear. Past collections have mixed leathers, feathers, silks and wools, and the mix of textures continues here with the addition of macramé and burnt-out silk dresses. “Confident, artistic, not afraid to take risks,” that is how Logan describes the women that inspired the Recluse style, and how many would describe the designer himself.

story by Sia-Alika Battle
photos by Aeric Meredith-Goujon
editing assistant Sierra Baskind

Logan Neitzel continues to refine his vision with his “Recluse Collection,” the Spring 2012 ready-to-wear. Past collections have mixed leathers, feathers, silks and wools, and the mix of textures continues with the addition of macramé and burnt-out silk dresses. “Confident, artistic, not afraid to take risks,” that is how Logan describes the women that inspired the Recluse style, and how many would describe the designer himself. Continue reading “Logan Neitzel – Spring 2012 Review – Rock & Recluse”

Nahm – Spring 2012 Review – A Beautiful Day

story by Zimir Hernandez
photos by Aeric Meredith- Goujon

The modest yet romantic silhouettes of Nary Manivong and Ally Hilfiger’s NAHM Spring 2012 collection give a sense of sexy innocence. The presentation displays a palette of diverse moods that one may interpret as a journey of growth. The angelic white dresses embellished with delicate detailing, flowing to purposeful silk prints of a mixture of indigo and ruby, that set the stage for its long and commanding lines, then advancing to a place of enlightenment, baring soft canary print dresses with pops of tangerine, and finally uncovering an impression of wholeness with calm caramel tone basket-woven dresses with exaggerated bows placed at its neck lines. Continue reading “Nahm – Spring 2012 Review – A Beautiful Day”

Mandy Coon – Spring 2012 Review – A Geometric Romance

“Werewolf heads with crystals coming out of them, mirrors, and my love for rocks and crystals is my inspiration,” described the designer backstage before the show.

story by Ashley Roberts
photos by Ned & Aya Rosen

Strongly influenced by David Altman, Mandy Coon‘s Spring 2012 collection is charged by the sculptor’s mixture of textures of beautiful but unsettling weird things. Continue reading “Mandy Coon – Spring 2012 Review – A Geometric Romance”

Emerson – Spring 2012 Review – Whisper, Don’t Shout

Boston-based designer Jackie Fraser Swan has a beautiful collection that includes two cute as a button daughters and a large handsome husband; her debut collection at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week was a strong showing as well. She displayed not only a solid design sense but a mature understanding of how to allow the wearer of her creations to make an impact without being garish. The idea of dressing the counter culture rebel has been well explored and experimented in so it can be difficult to create something novel. Mrs. Fraser Swan succeed in her attempt for the most part primarily because she let her subtle detailing and interesting fabric combinations do the work for her.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Adrianna Favero

Boston-based designer Jackie Fraser Swan has a beautiful collection that includes two cute as a button daughters and a large handsome husband; her debut collection at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week under the label Emerson was a strong showing as well. She displayed not only a solid design sense but a mature understanding of how to allow the wearer of her creations to make an impact without being garish. The idea of dressing the counter culture rebel has been well explored and experimented in so it can be difficult to create something novel. Mrs. Fraser Swan succeed in her attempt for the most part primarily because she let her subtle detailing and interesting fabric combinations do the work for her. Continue reading “Emerson – Spring 2012 Review – Whisper, Don’t Shout”

Monique Lhuillier – Spring 2012 Review – Making Her Move

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Adrianna Favero
editing assistant Sierra Baskind

There are runway shows in fashion that turn into rare and historic moments in the life of a house or designer. An expectation of what you are about to see at any given show is created by past collections and market reaction. If a designer builds a growing business on a particular signature style over many seasons then you can reasonably expect that, although there will be refinement and occasional experiments, you will get season from season mostly what you have come to know. All rational and reasonable and perfectly proper. But… designers are artists, and artists can revolt against themselves and expectations, exploding suddenly in a bold new direction. Monique Lhuillier did just that with her unrestrained new Spring Summer 2012 collection. In a radical reinvention, the looks that strutted down the runway were dynamic, sexy, and possessed a swagger not previously seen in her demure, elegant, and floral works of the past. Her talent, creativity and intricacy were not replaced, rather they were unleashed in this brave new expression. Continue reading “Monique Lhuillier – Spring 2012 Review – Making Her Move”

Nicholas K – Spring 2012 Review – Leather Nomad Chic

Brother & sister Nicholas and Chris Kunz, of the New York based label Nicholas K, actually began their journey to the catwalks of New York in the arid air of Tuscon, Arizona. The loose cuts and fine and flowing layers seem a natural outgrowth of life in the heat.This season’s collection continued the growth of this impressive and under-recognized label. Ably helmed with Nicholas as designer and Chris as the business manager, the label is poised for bigger and better things.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Adrianna Favero

Vivienne Tam – Spring 2012 Review

Vivienne Tam’s work is complex, subtle, and striking. She will use prints with fringe and embossed edges and it doesn’t feel busy. It’s a remarkable feat that she performs season after season. Her Spring 2012 collection was inspired by the 1970s, and it shows in prints and palette. Pinks, oranges and blues mixed with blacks, whites and tie dyes for a very tranquil feel. There were many 70s tailoring touches which also reinforced the mood. Side slit pockets and thin yokes mixed with bell bottoms, done in a fresh way not a simple copy, embroidered bands, and silk wide and long bow tie collars that hung to the navel, all were drawn from the 1970s and updated with a definitive “Tam touch”.

View the full collection in our Photo Gallery.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Peter Cameron Dominkovits

Vivienne Tam‘s work is complex, subtle, and striking. She will use prints with fringe and embossed edges and it doesn’t feel busy. It’s a remarkable feat that she performs season after season. Her Spring 2012 collection was inspired by the 1970s, and it shows in prints and palette. Pinks, oranges and blues mixed with blacks, whites and tie dyes for a very tranquil feel. There were many 70s tailoring touches which also reinforced the mood. Side slit pockets and thin yokes mixed with bell bottoms, done in a fresh way not a simple copy, embroidered bands, and silk wide and long bow tie collars that hung to the navel, all were drawn from the 1970s and updated with a definitive “Tam touch”. Continue reading “Vivienne Tam – Spring 2012 Review”

Rachel Antonoff – Spring 2012 Review – Wednesday Addams Lives!

Antonoff left no question unanswered when it came to her inspiration of Minnie Mouse fused with Wednesday Addams. The two may be completely polar, but the designer managed to make them completely covalent with polka dot rompers, maxi fruit cup print dresses and see-thru chiffon blouses. Thick eyebrows, glum faces, and pigtails complimented her pieces as the models stared into the souls of onlookers. Bold. Enchanting. Utterly haunting.

View the full collection in our Photo Gallery.

story by Landon Peoples
photos by Aya & Ned Rosen

When asked to describe a typical night in the Antonoff Manor, her Spring 2012 collection, ready-to-wear designer Rachel Antonoff easily exclaimed, “well, they’re getting ready to murder off their pets and they’re preparing their pet cemetery. I think they’re being really creepy in there.” How’s that for innocent? Antonoff left no question unanswered when it came to her inspiration of Minnie Mouse fused with Wednesday Addams. The two may be completely polar, but the designer managed to make them completely covalent with polka dot rompers, maxi fruit cup print dresses and see-thru chiffon blouses. Thick eyebrows, glum faces, and pigtails complimented her pieces as the models stared into the souls of onlookers. Bold. Enchanting. Utterly haunting. Continue reading “Rachel Antonoff – Spring 2012 Review – Wednesday Addams Lives!”

Sachin and Babi – Spring 2012 – Modern Indian Textiles Meet 70’s American Glam

Sachin + Babi’s Spring 2012 collection is inspired by 70’s glam rocker women Bianca Jagger, Grace Jones and Faye Dunaway, incorporated by use of “similar aesthetic and similar looks, but more relevant to our wardrobe now,” says co-designer Babi Ahluwalia. The color palate consisted of bright oranges, pinks, and metallic is an ode to the couple’s Indian heritage and origin. For years Sachin + Babi have provided textiles to some of Fashion’s top designers, and their resources and understanding of that product showed through here as well as ever in this most recent collection.

View the full collection in our Photo Gallery.

story by Ashley Roberts
photos by Ned & Aya Rosen

Sachin + Babi’s Spring 2012 collection is inspired by 70’s glam rocker women Bianca Jagger, Grace Jones and Faye Dunaway, these icons are incorporated by use of “similar aesthetic and similar looks, but more relevant to our wardrobe now,” says co-designer Babi Ahluwalia. The color palate consisted of bright oranges, pinks, and metallic is an ode to the couple’s Indian heritage and origin. For years Sachin + Babi have provided textiles to some of Fashion’s top designers, and their resources and understanding of that product showed through here as well as ever in their most recent collection. Continue reading “Sachin and Babi – Spring 2012 – Modern Indian Textiles Meet 70’s American Glam”