Venexiana – Fall 2012 – Kati’s Heavy Metal Lace Elegance

The most packed house I’ve ever seen in the Studio space in the tents at Lincoln Center created a charged atmosphere that awaited the Fall 2012 collection of designer Kati Stern’s label Venexiana. Stern stands out quite a bit from every other designer at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. She does things her own way and is utterly indifferent to any and every convention in fashion. Mrs. Stern is a lover of the excessive and the over the top, and her clothes mirror this attitude in every respect.

view the full collection in our Photo Gallery

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Adrianna Favero
web editor Rachel Reneé

The most packed house I’ve ever seen in the Studio space in the tents at Lincoln Center created a charged atmosphere that awaited the Fall 2012 collection of designer Kati Stern’s label Venexiana. Stern stands out quite a bit from every other designer at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. She does things her own way and is utterly indifferent to any and every convention in fashion. Mrs. Stern is a lover of the excessive and the over the top, and her clothes mirror this attitude in every respect. Continue reading “Venexiana – Fall 2012 – Kati’s Heavy Metal Lace Elegance”

Jenny Packham – Fall 2012 – Molten Sultry

British-born and Central St Marten’s-trained Jenny Packham has had success in almost every conceivable area of fashion that interests her. World renowned couture and bridal designer, check. Red carpet go-to for some of Hollywood’s biggest stars, check. Worn by relevant royalty, check. Made clothes for movies, James Bond no less, and television, Sex and The City even, check. What was left to do? Take Manhattan, apparently.

view the full collection in our Photo Gallery

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Charles Beckwith

British-born and Central St Marten’s-trained Jenny Packham has had success in almost every conceivable area of fashion that interests her. World renowned couture and bridal designer, check. Red carpet go-to for some of Hollywood’s biggest stars, check. Worn by relevant royalty, check. Made clothes for movies, James Bond no less, and television, Sex and The City even, check. What was left to do? Take Manhattan, apparently. Continue reading “Jenny Packham – Fall 2012 – Molten Sultry”

Dean Quinn – Fall 2012 – Zingara Confidence

The forecast looks clear for Dean Quinn. The former Central Saint Martins Womenswear Designer of the Year winner was all about clean lines and witty, functional details in a palette that swiftly remedied any winter malaise of the guests entering his Fall 2012 presentation. Hot pink and red with grounding blue, cream, and nude lit up the 25-year-old designer’s presentation at Milk Studios on Saturday; a welcome sojourn for an audience laden in leather and faux fur.

view the full collection in our Photo Gallery

story by Lauren Gray
photos by Aeric Meredith-Goujon
web editor Rachel Reneé

The forecast looks clear for Dean Quinn. The former Central Saint Martins Womenswear Designer of the Year winner was all about clean lines and witty, functional details in a palette that swiftly remedied any winter malaise of the guests entering his Fall 2012 presentation. Hot pink and red with grounding blue, cream, and nude lit up the 25-year-old designer’s presentation at Milk Studios on Saturday; a welcome sojourn for an audience laden in leather and faux fur. Continue reading “Dean Quinn – Fall 2012 – Zingara Confidence”

Odilon by Stacey Clark – Fall 2012 – Puzzle Pieces

Stacey Clark’s Fall 2012 Odilon collection is directly derived from the more confusing bits of David Lynch’s “Twin Peaks.” Inspired by Lynch’s long takes and psychological twists, Clark sought to transpose this same mysterious nature to her own work. The result is highly stylized, with Lynch’s graphic space transferred to prints for dresses and sweaters throughout the collection. Other references to the series included the classic puzzling quotation, “the Owls are not what they seem,” printed on a long sleeve shirt, all orchestrated to contribute toward presenting a secretive girl icon.

view the full collection in our Photo Gallery

story by Chloe Bensahel
photos by Aeric Meredith-Goujon
web editor Rachel Reneé

Stacey Clark’s Fall 2012 Odilon collection is directly derived from the more confusing bits of David Lynch’s “Twin Peaks.” Inspired by Lynch’s long takes and psychological twists, Clark sought to transpose this same mysterious nature to her own work. The result is highly stylized, with Lynch’s graphic space transferred to prints for dresses and sweaters throughout the collection. Other references to the series included the classic puzzling quotation, “the Owls are not what they seem,” printed on a long sleeve shirt, all orchestrated to contribute toward presenting a secretive girl icon. Continue reading “Odilon by Stacey Clark – Fall 2012 – Puzzle Pieces”

Katie Gallagher – Fall 2012 – On Silent Soil

After several seasons of making a steady noise, Katie Gallagher’s Silent Soil is her most grounded collection yet. On Thursday, February 9th, The Standard Hotel helped showcase trademark Gallagher moments veiled by a subdued seduction. Faded was the amped aggression of last season, making way for a new serenity. Her “favorite so far,” Gallagher’s collection charmed in silk, chiffon, leather, boiled wool, and shearling.

view the full collection in our Photo Gallery

story by Lauren Gray
photos by Florence Montmare
web editor Rachel Reneé

After several seasons of making a steady noise, Katie Gallagher’s Silent Soil is her most grounded collection yet. On Thursday, February 9th, The Standard Hotel helped showcase trademark Gallagher moments veiled by a subdued seduction. Faded was the amped aggression of last season, making way for a new serenity. Her “favorite so far,” Gallagher’s collection charmed in silk, chiffon, leather, boiled wool, and shearling. Continue reading “Katie Gallagher – Fall 2012 – On Silent Soil”

Rachel Antonoff – Fall 2012 – What Woods Are These?

Walking into the Rachel Antonoff presentation was walking into a fantasy. Models stood in front of black wildlife cutouts, while others were on a small boat, perhaps arriving from a faraway land where all things cute reside. Peter pan collars and hearts were amongst the imports, while checkered embroidery dazzled the stage.

view the full collection in our Photo Gallery

story by Chloe Bensahel
photos by Florence Montmare
web editor Rachel Reneé

Walking into the Rachel Antonoff presentation was walking into a fantasy. Models stood in front of black wildlife cutouts, while others were on a small boat, perhaps arriving from a faraway land where all things cute reside. Peter pan collars and hearts were amongst the imports, while checkered embroidery dazzled the stage. Continue reading “Rachel Antonoff – Fall 2012 – What Woods Are These?”

A Détacher – Fall 2012 – Confidence Structures

A Détacher’s distinguished lady is taking a trip to Japan. She took her knitted high-waist pants with her from last season, but this time paired them with more structured boxy cuts. Kimono shapes populated the upper half of the body as bellowing sleeves began past the shoulder. Oversize Peter Pan collars were also on the menu, paired with oversized knitwear for comfort. Other neck details included futuristic thick corded necklines, worn with veteran designer Mona Kowalska’s signature touch of knitwear, here knitted skirts which even the most conservative of us women long for in the depths of winter.

view the full collection in our Photo Gallery

story by Chloe Bensahel
photos by Ned and Aya Rosen
web editor Rachel Reneé

A Détacher’s distinguished lady is taking a trip to Japan. She took her knitted high-waist pants with her from last season, but this time paired them with more structured boxy cuts. Kimono shapes populated the upper half of the body as bellowing sleeves began past the shoulder. Oversize Peter Pan collars were also on the menu, paired with oversized knitwear for comfort. Other neck details included futuristic thick corded necklines, worn with veteran designer Mona Kowalska’s signature touch of knitwear, here knitted skirts which even the most conservative of us women long for in the depths of winter. Continue reading “A Détacher – Fall 2012 – Confidence Structures”

Jeremy Laing – Fall 2012 – Layering Forward

This season, designer Jeremy Laing looked to his key strength, layering, to form a collection marked by imposing shoulders, myriad textures, and fine detail prints. Mohair and rich wools made multiple appearances, in contrast with sheer silks that flowed beneath their heavier counterparts. Arms, legs, and flesh peered through opened zippers, as jackets and coats looked to shoulders for support.

view the full collection in our Photo Gallery

story by Chloe Bensahel
photos by Aya and Ned Rosen
web editor Rachel Reneé

This season, Toronto designer Jeremy Laing looked to his key strength, layering, to form a collection marked by imposing shoulders, myriad textures, and fine detail prints. Mohair and rich wools made multiple appearances, in contrast with sheer silks that flowed beneath their heavier counterparts. Arms, legs, and flesh peered through opened zippers, as jackets and coats looked to shoulders for support. Continue reading “Jeremy Laing – Fall 2012 – Layering Forward”

Esosa NY – Fall 2012 – Meridional Geishas

Southern American girls with a Japanese twist is the theme behind this line and its bright colors, structured silhouettes, and complex textures. Fashion fanatics clad in black glided past young ballerinas in tutus at the Alvin Ailey Studio to get into Emilio Sosa’s Fall 2012 Esosa NY presentation. Stools were set up on a stage placed in front of street-side windows, permitting passers-by a glimpse of the colorful debut.

view the full collection in our Photo Gallery

story by Cassandra Past
photos by Michael Cinquino

Southern American girls with a Japanese twist is the theme behind this line and its bright colors, structured silhouettes, and complex textures. Fashion fanatics clad in black glided past young ballerinas in tutus at the Alvin Ailey Studio to get into Emilio Sosa’s Fall 2012 Esosa NY presentation. Stools were set up on a stage placed in front of street-side windows, permitting passers-by a glimpse of the colorful debut.

Continue reading “Esosa NY – Fall 2012 – Meridional Geishas”

Karolina Zmarlak – Fall 2012 – El Matadora

Easily her best work to date, Karolina Zmarlak’s Fall 2012 collection is luxury and culture at its finest. Inspired by bullfighting matadors and the politics of Spain, Zmarlak created a collection that reflected well the vigor and depth of her inspiration. Her Spring 2012 collection referenced women under communism in Poland, further evidence Zmarlak does her homework. “Spain was in the position that Poland’s in now, about 20 years ago, so this collection is an homage to my business partner’s love for Spain, but also how I think their future will play out,” Zmarlak explained.

view the full collection in our Photo Gallery

story by Landon Peoples
photos by Aeric Meredith-Guojon
web editor Rachel Reneé

Easily her best work to date, Karolina Zmarlak’s Fall 2012 collection is luxury and culture at its finest. Inspired by bullfighting matadors and the politics of Spain, Zmarlak created a collection that reflected well the vigor and depth of her inspiration. Her Spring 2012 collection referenced women under communism in Poland, further evidence Zmarlak does her homework. “Spain was in the position that Poland’s in now, about 20 years ago, so this collection is an homage to my business partner’s love for Spain, but also how I think their future will play out,” Zmarlak explained. Continue reading “Karolina Zmarlak – Fall 2012 – El Matadora”