Bibhu Mohapatra – Spring 2012 Review – Rising Through The Layers

The truest trend to emerge from the Spring 2012 collections shown during New York Fashion Week has been exceptional designers modifying or out and out altering the fundamental nature of the clothes that they produced from the last season to this season. Done right, that approach is an invigorating shock to the system. Bibhu Mohapatra’s Spring 2012 collection was certainly an example of it being done right.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Adrianna Favero

The truest trend to emerge from the Spring 2012 collections shown during New York Fashion Week has been exceptional designers modifying or out and out altering the fundamental nature of the clothes that they produced from the last season to this season. Done right, that approach is an invigorating shock to the system. Bibhu Mohapatra‘s Spring 2012 collection was certainly an example of it being done right. Continue reading “Bibhu Mohapatra – Spring 2012 Review – Rising Through The Layers”

Frank Tell – Spring 2012 Review – Lace The Leather

Frank Tell’s Spring 2012 collection combines flowery lace work and luxe leathers that lend to impeccably put together pieces. Leather and lace is an often employed pairing, but do not let that fool you into thinking Frank Tell’s work with them is just another cliche. They may be used often elsewhere, but they are used very differently here.

story by Dana Varon
photos by Ned & Aya Rosen

Frank Tell‘s Spring 2012 collection combines flowery lace work and luxe leathers that lend to impeccably put together pieces. Leather and lace is an often employed pairing, but do not let that fool you into thinking Frank Tell’s work with them is just another cliche. They may be used often elsewhere, but they are used very differently here. Continue reading “Frank Tell – Spring 2012 Review – Lace The Leather”

Norman Ambrose – Spring 2012 Review – Do You Remember What Luxe Looks Like?

My first and last impressions of the Norman Ambrose Spring 2012 show remain that the spirit of the artist and stage designer Tony Duquette must have taken up residence in the creative mind of Mr. Ambrose. There is a prominent level of perfectionism in how the seams are pressed, the hems are pressed, the clothes fit the models, and the tailoring is razor sharp. This collection is soigne, slick, luxe, metallic, and displays beading on top of beading.

story by Jeffrey Felner
photos by Charles Beckwith

My first and last impressions of the Norman Ambrose Spring 2012 show remain that the spirit of the artist and stage designer Tony Duquette must have taken up residence in the creative mind of Mr. Ambrose. There is a prominent level of perfectionism in how the seams are pressed, the hems are pressed, the clothes fit the models, and the tailoring is razor sharp. This collection is soigne, slick, luxe, metallic, and displays beading on top of beading. Continue reading “Norman Ambrose – Spring 2012 Review – Do You Remember What Luxe Looks Like?”

Rachel Roy – Spring 2012 Review – Zen and The Art of Fabric Selection

“Everything starts with the fabric, including colors, but for me fabric always trumps. What I mean by that is, if there is a fabric that is a tactile inspiration and its perfect, but it doesn’t come in the color that fits with the collection’s inspiration, it’s out of there, because that’s what you’ll actually be wearing.”

View the full collection in our Photo Gallery.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Adrianna Favero

A designer once told me that when she was struggling and poor she would occasionally have to choose between fabric and food. Fabric, of course, always won out. Although I didn’t ask her, I get the feeling that Rachel Roy would have answered that question the same way. Continue reading “Rachel Roy – Spring 2012 Review – Zen and The Art of Fabric Selection”

Badgley Mischka Bride – Spring 2012 Review – Tomorrow’s Traditional Wedding

When I spoke to Mark Badgley and James Mischka moments before their Fall 2012 bridal collection was to flow down the runway yesterday, they spoke to me of the challenging restrictions that are placed on bridal design. After I saw the collection, I think they might have been having me on, because theirs was a very unrestricted, even uninhibited collection. The rules of the bridal market don’t inhibit these men, they push them to greatness. Innovation and experimentation abounded from reworking of traditional shapes to different variations on almost every conceivable type of structure and construction.

View the full collection in our Photo Gallery.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Charles Beckwith

When I spoke to Mark Badgley and James Mischka moments before their Spring 2012 bridal collection was to flow down the runway yesterday, they spoke of the challenging restrictions that are placed on bridal design. After I saw the collection, I think they might have been having me on, because this is a very unrestricted, even uninhibited collection. The rules of the bridal market don’t inhibit these men, they push them to greatness. Innovation and experimentation abounded from reworking of traditional shapes to different variations on almost every conceivable type of structure and construction. Continue reading “Badgley Mischka Bride – Spring 2012 Review – Tomorrow’s Traditional Wedding”

Jad Ghandour – Spring 2012 Review – Jungle Fatale

The Jad Ghandour Spring 2012 show in the tents at Lincoln Center took a cue from P.T. Barnum. Bolstering the designer’s “safari” theme, two baby Bengal tigers flanked either side of the mini-runway. “It’s a safari collection. It has a 60s feeling” said the designer backstage before the show. Designing for the “femme fatale,” silk satin, chiffon, and tulle were the ring-masters in the menagerie of looks.

View the full collection in our Photo Gallery.

story by Lo Gray
photos by Adrianna Favero

The Jad Ghandour Spring 2012 show in the tents at Lincoln Center took a cue from P.T. Barnum. Bolstering the designer’s “safari” theme, two baby Bengal tigers flanked either side of the mini-runway. “It’s a safari collection. It has a 60s feeling” said the designer backstage before the show. Designing for the “femme fatale,” silk satin, chiffon, and tulle were the ring-masters in the menagerie of looks. Continue reading “Jad Ghandour – Spring 2012 Review – Jungle Fatale”

Timo Weiland – Spring 2012 Review – Moving Onto The Runway

Timo Weiland’s Spring 2012 was in general a good collection but it had an uncharacteristic feel to it compared to their very sharp presentations of the past two seasons. There were many strong pieces and the team’s growth as designers surely continued, but the collection had a few pieces that felt flat and disconnected from the rest of the collection. An 60’s style baseball jacket and a men’s floral shirt and matching short both felt forced, and a small handful of other pieces lacked the original spark that has vaulted the young designers to their white hot status.

View the full collection in our Photo Gallery.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Adrianna Favero

Timo Weiland‘s Spring 2012 was in general a good collection but it had an uncharacteristic feel to it compared to their very sharp presentations of the past two seasons. There were many strong pieces and the team’s growth as designers surely continued, but the collection had a few pieces that felt flat and disconnected from the rest of the collection. An 60’s style baseball jacket and a men’s floral shirt and matching short both felt forced, and a small handful of other pieces lacked the original spark that has vaulted the young designers to their white hot status. Continue reading “Timo Weiland – Spring 2012 Review – Moving Onto The Runway”

Jen Kao – Spring 2012 Review – Sunrise

Jen Kao’s collections always have a very pure feel to them. There is a sense of a wide and natural stream that flows unimpeded from her inspiration to her creations. This makes her collections feel charming and unadulterated. Always proceeding from a natural place, Kao’s clothing seems very accurately evocative of her collection’s starting point.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Adrianna Favero

Jen Kao‘s collections always have a very pure feel to them. There is a sense of a wide and natural stream that flows unimpeded from her inspiration to her creations. This makes her collections feel charming and unadulterated. Always proceeding from a natural place, Kao’s clothing seems very accurately evocative of her collection’s starting point. Continue reading “Jen Kao – Spring 2012 Review – Sunrise”

Katie Gallagher – Spring 2012 Review – Gallagher Is Out For Blood

What’s red and black and highly anticipated all over? Katie Gallagher’s Spring 2012 collection is what. The eponymous line’s Red Red Blood was certainly no joke, however. Working with a minimal color palette, namely variations of black and red, Gallagher was able to utterly arrest her audience. A Cold Cave soundtrack sent models coursing through a forest of syrupy, ‘blood-filled’ vials in creations that tucked and billowed. From the zippered hemline of a voluminous skirt, to the surprise back or no back of a top, her adept tailoring was in full force.

story by Lo Gray
photos by Aeric Meredith-Goujon

What’s red and black and highly anticipated all over? Katie Gallagher‘s Spring 2012 collection is what. The eponymous line’s Red Red Blood was certainly no joke, however. Working with a minimal color palette, namely variations of black and red, Gallagher was able to utterly arrest her audience. A Cold Cave soundtrack sent models coursing through a forest of syrupy, ‘blood-filled’ vials in creations that tucked and billowed. From the zippered hemline of a voluminous skirt, to the surprise back or no back of a top, her adept tailoring was in full force. Continue reading “Katie Gallagher – Spring 2012 Review – Gallagher Is Out For Blood”

Chris Benz – Spring 2012 Review – Color As Fuel

If prints are personal, then consider Chris Benz as unique as they come. With bold colors in even bolder combinations, the veritable hodge-podge collage of brightness and textures proved his Spring 2012 Collection far from subtle.

The hot-pink coifed Seattle native looked to a different shore for inspiration, namely one home to a renowned Brooklyn amusement park. Benz spoke passionately about his muse during the presentation, largely inspired by “specifically the summer attached to Candy Darling and the Warhol superstars. I love the idea of the Warhol superstars go to Coney Island for a photo-shoot. They’re totally coming undone.”

story by Lo Gray
photos by Adrianna Favero

If prints are personal, then consider Chris Benz as unique as they come. With bold colors in even bolder combinations, the veritable hodge-podge collage of brightness and textures proved his Spring 2012 Collection far from subtle.

The hot-pink coifed Seattle native looked to a different shore for inspiration, namely one home to a renowned Brooklyn amusement park. Benz spoke passionately about his muse during the presentation, largely inspired by “specifically the summer attached to Candy Darling and the Warhol superstars. I love the idea of the Warhol superstars go to Coney Island for a photo-shoot. They’re totally coming undone.” Continue reading “Chris Benz – Spring 2012 Review – Color As Fuel”