fall 2011 – Page 2

Study NY – Fall 2011

Ms. St. James is very experienced with textiles, not only in sourcing but down to the weft and warp level of creation. This collection could be easily worn for work or casual events, and I’d be fascinated to see what she would do with formal evening attire.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Stephen F. Bodi

Tara St. James’ Study New York collection for Fall 2011 was full of details and different ways of creating visual interest. There’s a myth in popular culture that great fashion design is extravagant. Great design in fashion or in anything is determined by two key factors: does it do its intended purpose exceptionally well and does it provide a positive user experience? That’s it, that’s what makes great fashion. There are, of course, a number of factors that can help attain that standard, and this collection exercised quite a few of them. Continue reading “Study NY – Fall 2011”

Chado Ralph Rucci – Fall 2011

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Charles Beckwith and Stephen F. Bodi
photo editing by Aya Rosen

Ralph Rucci’s Fall 2011 collection contained many, many pieces which structurally verged on the impossible. His talent at creating lightness and gravity-defying shoulders and sleeves is unmatched. It is not the technical underpinnings, however, that move those that view his designs, but the art of the designs themselves. To be moved and astonished by design is an exhilarating feeling. If you have ever found yourself staring transfixed at a sculpture or a skyscraper, then you know how engrossing it can become. This happened immediately as the first looks began their laps around the packed Chado showroom. Continue reading “Chado Ralph Rucci – Fall 2011”

Katie Gallagher – Fall 2011

Overall, Katie Gallagher’s Fall 2011 collection keeps this young talent on the map and headed in the right direction.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Ned & Aya Rosen

Katie Gallagher’s Fall 2011 collection continued an exploratory growth of her art as a designer. Her developing signatures of mixing hard and soft and flow and structure were still strongly in evidence, but this time there was a little bit more flow than stiffness. The most prominent development this season was in her intelligent use of textured fabrics. Fabric sourcing is a key component in the process of designing a collection, and Ms. Gallagher once again displayed a keen eye in her choices. Her ridged, dappled and textured fabrics were incorporated into garments in sections or squares that peeked from under flowing cuts in some pieces and stiff structured designs in others. This had the impact of creating the appearance of strength as the revealed sections felt strong and armored.

Ms. Gallagher also continued to provide NYC’s Generation Next with some of the most intriguing tights that can be found anywhere. Each season she manages to find new ways to render such a simple item in myriad new and interesting ways. It was pleasing to see some bright colors finding their way into the collection and I do hope that in the future they find their way into more of her work. Overall, Katie Gallagher’s Fall 2011 collection keeps this young talent on the map and headed in the right direction. Continue reading “Katie Gallagher – Fall 2011”

Daniel Vosovic – Fall 2011

To add a little sex appeal and fun elements to his collection, he added accessories like sex masks, stripper heels and handcuffs to add more dimension to the story.

story by Kerry Kong
photos by Stephen Bodi

I always knew that I wanted to be in the fashion ever since I was little. At school, I spent most of my time complaining about having to take all these history, math, science classes when I could spend all that time, analyzing fashion trends and making beautiful clothing. That was, until I came to Daniel Vosovic’s Fall 2011 show, I finally recognized some value in the study all these other irrelevant subjects… inspiration. This former Project Runway star probably did pay good attention in history classes, as he was imaging what he wanted to see on his women, and an image of strong frontier life women in 1850s suddenly hit his head. Ding, that’s it. Continue reading “Daniel Vosovic – Fall 2011”

Juan Carlos Obando – Fall 2011

The dark setting directly contrasted with Obando’s suits, dresses, and gowns; their lightweight fabrics and body-revealing cuts more commonly seen in spring and summer. As one model walked, her floor-length white caftan fluttered like a sail in the breeze.

story by Kari Jensen
photos by Charles Beckwith

A long bench along one side of an ominous warehouse faced the emptiness. A row of lights, spaced wide overhead, cutting through the gloom, punctuated by thunderous drum calls. Models passed one-by-one walking first near the bench and then circling into the murk, repeating this pattern again and again during Juan Carlos Obando’s two-hour Fall 2011 presentation. Continue reading “Juan Carlos Obando – Fall 2011”

Douglas Hannant – Fall 2011

Created for a true lady in the classic Park Avenue sense, there is no insouciant wear. This muse is impeccably put together.

story by Dana Varon
photos by Ned & Aya Rosen

The Plaza Hotel is the perfect place for designer Douglas Hannant to hold his show, not only because he has his first stand-alone boutique there but because his clothes are filled with the luxurious fabrics, cuts and adornments expected by and of the women who stay there. After assistant window dressing at Barney’s, it is said he re-found the mannequin of his dreams who he had been looking for and now she lives at his boutique too. Perhaps, that is why his pieces seem to drape so perfectly and it is definitely why his models had dewy, glowy mannequin skin and black banged bobbed wigs. He told me so when I said they looked like one. He also told me how he is pleased with this collection’s range of texture, which is very important to him, but in a subtle, understated way.

Created for a true lady in the classic Park Avenue sense, there is no insouciant wear. This muse is impeccably put together. From his lady in her white georgette blouse and black wool crepe wide pants to his crepe tan spiral seam strapless dress, this persona is going somewhere. Rust colors in a wool dress and mohair wrap jacket, black wool skirts with slits and leather tied belts were among the more edgy. Then there was the perfect pencil skirt. But besides the many luxe pieces made of the like of tulle overlays, glazed tweed, velvet, fil coupe and point d’esprit sleeves there are teal and black mermaid gowns, beaded back harnesses and full organza petals. Understated, no. Simply beautiful, yes. Continue reading “Douglas Hannant – Fall 2011”

Jonathan Simkhai – Fall 2011

Jonathan Simkhai’s Fall 2011 collection was a solid step forward in cementing his identity as the premier New York designer whose specialty is masculine tailoring.

story by Seth Friedermann
reporting by Kerry Kong
photos by Aeric Meredith Goujon

Jonathan Simkhai’s Fall 2011 collection was a solid step forward in cementing his identity as the premier New York designer whose specialty is masculine tailoring. Continue reading “Jonathan Simkhai – Fall 2011”

Bibhu Mohapatra – Fall 2011

Bibhu Mohapatra’s Fall 2011 collection presentation was a terrific example of his continuing exploration of his strong signature of layers and revelations.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Freda Henry

Bibhu Mohapatra’s Fall 2011 collection presentation was a terrific example of his continuing exploration of his strong signature of layers and revelations. Continue reading “Bibhu Mohapatra – Fall 2011”

Odilon by Stacey Clark – Fall 2011

Clark feels this is one of her most mature shows, which in turn shows her growth.

story by Dana Varon
photos by Aeric Meredith Goujon

LA based Stacey Clark and her assistant designer Harold Kuhn are cool and they are young. Budding into the scene with their Odilon Fall 2011 collection, their third, Clark feels this is one of her most mature shows, which in turn shows her growth. Fittingly, the Greek goddess Persephone, who has a classic story of growing, inspired it. Starting as a young, naïve girl, she got taken by Hades, got her heart broken, found out that the world is not such a wonderful place, eventually evolving into a jaded, sad, and unwilling goddess of the underworld. But a bit of her innocence remained. The designer wanted this line to reflect that journey, but with the added element of psychedelic rock and roll, like an acid trip via Sergeant Pepper’s, circa 1970. Continue reading “Odilon by Stacey Clark – Fall 2011”

Jen Kao – Fall 2011

On your next night out if you’re going to leave an impression regardless by what you choose to wear, wouldn’t it be lovely to be a bird of paradise as created by the talented new designer Jen Kao?

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Freda Henry

All fashion is costume. Even if you try to not make a statement and put no directed thought into what you wear, you’ll end up expressing something about yourself. Call it compulsive communication, it just goes with being human. Of course it goes without saying that you ought to put thought into what you communicate through your clothes, even if it is only to convey something like professionalism. Designers think about what they want you to wear, and great designers think a great deal and give you an array every season with which to make powerful statements. Jen Kao’s Fall 2011 collection gives you the ability to speak volumes. From the orange and yellow glowing faux lava that lined the upstage runway, to her lush dreamscape palette of golds, purples, reds, and blues, the color drenched show cast quite the spell over the packed studio at Lincoln Center. Continue reading “Jen Kao – Fall 2011”