new york – Page 5

Rachel Antonoff – Fall 2011

The clothing of Rachel Antonoff is fun but it’s not frilly. It works to well because Ms. Antonoff chooses well. From fabrics and fit to prints and details this is the work of a serious designer. Many in fashion assume that the spirit of her clothes is inspired by the past. What they miss is the timelessness of the girl who buys her clothes, and consequently the clothes themselves.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Adrianna Favero

“You look like an angel, walk like an angel, talk like an angel, but I got wise. You’re the devil in disguise.”

Designer Rachel Antonoff’s clothes seem innocent enough. Full of clever details and fun fabrics. Her prints and colors are always playful and her cuts are easy and free. There’s a youthful exuberance about her collections that always puts her clients in a good mood when they wear her designs. Even the theater surrounding the presentation of her Fall 2011 offering was seeming wholesome fun. A 1950s-era school dance, complete with an all-girl rock band and models portraying the various archetypes of high school life. But wait, in the midst of this pleasant tableau, why is that girl spiking the punch with a flask? Why are there a pack of girls on the stands with the eyes of hungry wolves? Why did the one girl bring a cat? Is this Sunnydale? It all fits with a Rachel Antonoff collection and more importantly with her client. Her collections are often described as retro or retro-inspired, but she told me she doesn’t understand that at all. It’s likely because of who she designs for. The clothing of Rachel Antonoff is fun but it’s not frilly. It works to well because Ms. Antonoff chooses well. From fabrics and fit to prints and details this is the work of a serious designer. Many in fashion assume that the spirit of her clothes is inspired by the past. What they miss is the timelessness of the girl who buys her clothes, and consequently the clothes themselves. The Rachel Antonoff Fall 2011 collection continues the development of this fascinating and serious young talent. Continue reading “Rachel Antonoff – Fall 2011”

Binetti Collection – Fall 2011

The Fall 2011 collection was beautiful, splendid, fantastical, and flowing, but also, oh, so easy to wear.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Freda Henry

Fantasy matters in fashion. Many times you will hear the comment, “nobody would wear that,” but fantastical creations play a critical role in fashion in a wide manner of ways. When viewing the goddesses who fell to earth at a Diego Binetti presentation, it’s important to stay conscious of the fact that the full-on heavy styling is Mr. Binetti’s vision in its purest form. All of the amazing Perez Sanz jewelery and magical Giuseppe Zanotti shoes are part of his taking advantage of the moment to present a suggestion of perfection. But at the core of his theater is his garments, and the Fall 2011 collection was beautiful, splendid, and flowing, but also, oh, so easy to wear. Continue reading “Binetti Collection – Fall 2011”

Venexiana – Fall 2011

Despite her punk rock passion and her love of the aggressive and theatrical Ms. Stern is very considered and calculated in her designs.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos Freda Henry

Venexiana’s designer Kati Stern is in her seventeenth season. She has a mistress’ hand at showmanship and knows how to play a crowd perfectly. But fashion shows aren’t for the crowd or even for us in the press, they’re for buyers. Pictures are nice, as are pretty words, but orders put food on the table. Venexiana’s Fall 2011 collection was a glittering array of dramatic gowns in luxurious satins, along with a parade of silks and metallics. Adornments of bows and strong swirls of fabric drew attention but never swallowed the woman, with the exception of the two closing white gowns which is what they were designed to do anyway. Continue reading “Venexiana – Fall 2011”

Blanc De Chine – Fall 2011

Blanc De Chine tends to take classical Chinese tailoring, such as mandarin collars and the like, and update them with little twists and turns. That’s just part of their story however, what Blanc De Chine does best is simple elegant and often dramatic silk clothes.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Shawn Punch
(photos provided by Blanc de Chine)

What is classic and iconic in one culture’s fashion is often unknown in others’. This creates the opportunity for a revolutionary feeling, when that classic look is exported to a new land. Remember the Nehru Jacket in the mid-60s? This is supposedly the age of Asian ascendancy, the old “Far East” is showing signs of becoming the new center, and the Asian aesthetic and Asian designers have more eyes on them than ever before. Somehow though, the tremendous work from Blanc De Chine has gone largely unnoticed. There is no artistic reason for this, as their work is consistently strong from season to season, and this season was no different. Continue reading “Blanc De Chine – Fall 2011”

NAHM – Fall 2011

The collection is a delicious descent into fashion madness.

story by Carmella Bella McDonald
photos by Adrianna Favero

NAHM collaborating designers Nary Manivong and Ally Hilfiger (daughter of veteran designer Tommy Hilfiger) showed a morbidly sophisticated collection which arrived on black wings in a breath of coffin dust. Inspired by Gothic prince Edgar Allen Poe’s poem, “The Raven,” as Mr. Manivong serenely stated, “we took everything from this poem: the colors, the emotions, the feelings for our theme, collection today.” Continue reading “NAHM – Fall 2011”

Logan Neitzel – Fall 2011

story by Dana Varon
photos by Aeric Meredith-Goujon

Logan Neizel is known for a lot of things; his Project Runway stint, his boyish good looks, his rock and roll semblance– well, he is all of that, but has moved on way past his Project Runway days, though he feels it was where he was supposed to be then. Now he shows what he can do with leather showcasing neck and wrist cuffs with long, hanging fringes, bandeau, little mini skirts solo and also with attached swatches of long, flowing black or red chiffon, He additionally adds a pop of color with red pieces of leather patches on black leggings (available in all black too) and a red/black stringy yarn type throw-over. Neitzel told me of his influence when he lived in Seattle seeing music and listening to rock which seems to creep into his designs in a modern way and garner his attitude towards leather– which he feels should become your own like an old hole-y rock tee that just gets better and better with wear. So true. This louche look is evident in his pieces, including his own waist-dangling fox-tail. It was also evident in the punk soundtrack backstage and incense infused air out front. These are pieces anyone can pick up to add their own edge – no matter what they’re wearing. Continue reading “Logan Neitzel – Fall 2011”

Byron Lars – Fall 2011

Lars pulled off a charcoal tweed sheath dress with button back fishtail detail that was sexy, classy, and beautiful all-in-one. Another breathtaking piece was an ivory tribal lace powder puff bustier dress, chic and elegant but fun to wear. All of the pieces were well-constructed and well-tailored.

story by Kerry Kong
photos by Freda Henry

Being away from New York Fashion Week for about 15 years, Byron Lars, a designer with two decades of experience, came back and showed what a real experience fashion should be in his fall 2011 presentation. Walking into the show, we could hear tribal drum playing in the background and, bang, the whole jungle was right in front of us! Inspired by his trip to a Native American Museum, Lars wanted to take us to a “Native Americana” journey this season. He described this collection as “clothes that feel connected to the earth,” and they included a silver glaze cocoon coat, a black and ivory tangled reed mesh twist neck sheath, and a bark faux shearling coat. Continue reading “Byron Lars – Fall 2011”

Academy of Art University – Fall 2011

For 10 seasons the San Francisco art school has been bringing its graduate students to New York Fashion Week for their chance to shine. This season there were seven collections showcased by different designers, all with distinct and diverse approaches.

story by Kerry Kong
photos by Adrianna Favero

Thinking of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, which designer names pop up in your mind? DKNY? Michael Kors? Ralph Lauren? How about Academy of Art University? For 10 seasons the San Francisco art school has been bringing its graduate students to New York Fashion Week for their chance to shine. This season there were seven collections showcased by different designers, all with distinct and diverse approaches. Continue reading “Academy of Art University – Fall 2011”

Jolibe – Fall 2011

The First Lady wore a Jolibe piece on her Christmas vacation and it created a nice buzz for the brand. However, it is the couple’s imagination, talent and savvy that will most certainly carry Jolibe into the future of American fashion.

Writer: Seth Friedermann
Photographer: Adrianna Favero

Joel Diaz and Christina La Pens’ Fall 2011 collection continued the striking new direction they forged last season. While they continue to maintain their trademark of manipulating fabric through imaginative construction and technique into unique and stunning shapes, they now do so in garments that are very easy to wear and integrate into your existing wardrobe. The challenge of the marketplace is sometimes very good for designers. It doesn’t always force them into some sort of hackneyed compromise, designers can use their imagination to re-envision how they express their own core design principles while still maintaining integrity and finding expressions that are retail-friendly, yet still very much their own. Continue reading “Jolibe – Fall 2011”

Farah Angsana – Fall 2011

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Freda Henry

Farah Angsana’s Fall 2011 collection was not for the meek. They never are, but this season had an even more defiant feel to it. Her clothes are for rich extravagant party girls who make no apology for the fact that they are rich extravagant party girls. Embroidery has always been one of Mrs. Angsana’s signatures, but embroidery itself is not all that uncommon amongst luxury clothing designers. What makes her work shine out and on is that she edits it perfectly. Her gowns and dresses never become overburdened with adornments and never come across as garish. The early part of the collection was dominated by blacks and silvers, which fits in perfectly with what you expect from a Farah Angsana collection. The end of the collection found her toning down the fancy needlework a bit and letting a beautiful series of blues, purples, browns, and a dash of red carried her message of bold glamor in beautiful luxurious fabrics. The show-stopping white ethereal gown with feather piping caused the crowd’s pulse to quicken and brought perfect closure to a solid collection. When you’re out at the palace this fall and the sight of a girl glittering and shimmering makes you go a bit weak in the knees, strong chance Farah Angsana gave her a helping hand. Continue reading “Farah Angsana – Fall 2011”