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Monique Lhuillier – Spring 2011 – New York

Fundamentally, artists are artists because they see life differently. Monique Lhuillier is one of the great fashion artists working in America today and Ms. Lhuillier most assuredly must see this life differently than most.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Freda Henry

Imagination is one of the most indispensable qualities an artist can have. Unbounded talent will turn out stale copies of others’ work without imagination. Great artists always have great imaginations, and this vital resource affects them in two critical ways. The obvious is that they visualize things that nobody else does, but less understood is that their imagination, almost as if by sheer mass, shifts their perspective. Fundamentally, artists are artists because they see life differently. Monique Lhuillier is one of the great fashion artists working in America today and Ms. Lhuillier most assuredly must see this life differently than most. After recovering my breath from the beautiful breeze that was her Spring 2011 collection, I have but one question; can she teach me to see the world as she does? Continue reading “Monique Lhuillier – Spring 2011 – New York”

Copperwheat – Spring 2011 – New York

With their Spring 2011 collection, cousins Ben and Lee Copperwheat are continuing to push the envelope on the use of prints and refined tailoring for American menswear. This collection had a more militaristic feel, but not in any way you would expect if you weren’t already aware of the brand, being far less dress blues than implying some sort of army reserve unit stationed in Amsterdam for a little too long. It’s wearable but it’s really out there.

story by Charles Beckwith
photos by Adrianna Favero

With their Spring 2011 collection, cousins Ben and Lee Copperwheat are continuing to push the envelope on the use of prints and refined tailoring for American menswear. This collection had a more militaristic feel, but not in any way you would expect if you weren’t already aware of the brand, being far less dress blues than implying some sort of army reserve unit stationed in Amsterdam for a little too long. It’s wearable but it’s really out there. Continue reading “Copperwheat – Spring 2011 – New York”

Jose Duran – Spring 2011 – New York

The talented Dominican designer has proven time and time again that he possesses an incredible amount of talent, yet seems to sometimes have trouble with retaining coherency in his collections. Mr. Duran refrained from setting a theme or stating an inspiration for the show, so the audience had little idea of what to expect beforehand.

story by Rachel Gill
photos by Freda Henry

Jose Duran’s Spring 2011 collection’s public debut, held in the Time Warner Center, was highly anticipated. The talented Dominican designer has proven time and time again that he possesses an incredible amount of talent, yet seems to sometimes have trouble with retaining coherency in his collections. Mr. Duran refrained from setting a theme or stating an inspiration for the show, so the audience had little idea of what to expect beforehand. Unfortunately, the collection proved to do little to alleviate the ambiguity over the focus and theme. Continue reading “Jose Duran – Spring 2011 – New York”

Sinister – Spring 2011 – New York

Unorthodox is a neutral adjective. It makes no claims about the correctness or incorrectness of the noun it’s describing. The Sinister Collection’s Spring 2011 line is unorthodox. That term is not used to avoid making a decision about whether or not I liked the collection, I did, rather I use it to make a point about the core nature of striking a very different chord than everybody else is playing.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Adrianna Favero

Unorthodox is a neutral adjective. It makes no claims about the correctness or incorrectness of the noun it’s describing. The Sinister Collection‘s Spring 2011 line is unorthodox. That term is not used to avoid making a decision about whether or not I liked the collection, I did, rather I use it to make a point about the core nature of striking a very different chord than everybody else is playing. Continue reading “Sinister – Spring 2011 – New York”

Jen Kao – Spring 2011 – New York

Jen Kao’s Spring 2011 collection offered proof positive that the Midwestern native has the vision and skills to become an international star. With this, her fifth collection, there has been rapid growth and a definitive shift away from easy body-conscious designs towards more high volume flowing shapes.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Charles Beckwith

Jen Kao’s Spring 2011 collection offered proof positive that the Midwestern native has the vision and skills to become an international star. With this, her fifth collection, there has been rapid growth and a definitive shift away from easy body-conscious designs towards more high volume flowing shapes. Continue reading “Jen Kao – Spring 2011 – New York”

A Détacher – Spring 2011 – New York

It takes a defiant artist to embrace unbalanced and neurotic as a specific concept for inspiration. Mona Kowalska is not only defiant but exceptionally talented. It is the combination of her vision and he skills that makes A Détacher one of the best labels in New York City.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Ned & Aya Rosen

It takes a defiant artist to embrace unbalanced and neurotic as a specific concept for inspiration. Mona Kowalska is not only defiant but exceptionally talented. It is the combination of her vision and skills that makes A Détacher one of the best labels in New York City. Her Spring 2011 collection was unique in its prints and fabrics, striking in its shapes and cuts, and most importantly bold in it’s presentation of the beauty of being slightly off. Continue reading “A Détacher – Spring 2011 – New York”

Mik Cire – Spring 2011 – New York

It is interesting to observe the very obvious differences between Monarchy’s “punk” aggressive street styling and the much more tailored and relaxed feel of Mik Cire. From the calm palette to the roomy cuts, it might be difficult for someone to tell that the two labels were designed by the same man.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Sandy Ramirez

“Dude, it’s clothing, I’m a designer, its just about making cool clothes. I can stand here and try to be some cool artist, and switch up and make it into something it’s not, but at the end of the day its just about making something that I think is cool.”

This bit of unpretentiousness has been brought to you by Eric Kim, designer of The Monarchy Collection and this, his recently launched Mik Cire label. It is interesting to observe the very obvious differences between Monarchy’s “punk” aggressive street styling and the much more tailored and relaxed feel of Mik Cire. From the calm palette to the roomy cuts, it might be difficult for someone to tell that the two labels were designed by the same man. Difficult if you don’t know high quality tailoring craft they display. For all of the cool and comfortable look of the primarily cotton Mik Cire Spring 2011 collection, there was a lot of structure and impressive tailoring going on. Continue reading “Mik Cire – Spring 2011 – New York”

Binetti – Spring 2011 – New York

A designer often has specific feelings or ideas in mind while designing, and the garment can act as a communicator. Viewing the Spring 2011 collection of Diego Binetti it is crystal clear that he wants his clients to feel warm, special, bold, strong, beautiful, and perhaps even loved?

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Freda Henry

Quick, how did you feel when you put on your clothes this morning? Did you choose your outfit based on your mood? Did you reflect on how your mood might change based on what you chose? The subject of feelings and fashion are not often discussed together and it points out a hole in our thinking about clothing. Design evokes feeling. A designer often has specific feelings or ideas in mind while designing, and the garment can act as a communicator. Viewing the Spring 2011 collection of Diego Binetti it is crystal clear that he wants his clients to feel warm, special, bold, strong, beautiful, and perhaps even loved? Continue reading “Binetti – Spring 2011 – New York”

Chado Ralph Rucci – Spring 2011 – New York

Consummate, this single word describes both Ralph Rucci and his art. Ralph Rucci’s designs possess a refined and serene feel to them. They are perfectly balanced, not solely aesthetically but in spirit as well. Viewing the Spring 2011 collection from Chado I felt as if I was reading almost as much as seeing.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos provided by the designer

Consummate, this single word describes both Ralph Rucci and his art. Ralph Rucci’s designs possess a refined and serene feel to them. They are perfectly balanced, not solely aesthetically but in spirit as well. Viewing the Spring 2011 collection from Chado I felt as if I was reading almost as much as seeing. There was communication occurring, each dress, each jacket, each blouse was imparting a  specific message. Fundamental sections such as panels and sleeves carried the same strength as the detailing, creating a sense of wholeness you rarely encounter in fashion. Mr. Rucci creates garments much like a master calligrapher who understands that the form of the symbol communicates as much as the symbol itself. Continue reading “Chado Ralph Rucci – Spring 2011 – New York”