Guli – Spring 2011 – New York

It was very apparent from the show notes that the Guli Spring 2011 collection was designed in many ways to be an apparel ambassador for Uzbek culture.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Freda Henry

The Material is The Message

Gulnara Karimova is a known figure on the world stage but an unknown quantity as a fashion designer. Her Guli brand is making its first appearance at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in New York after only three shows total worldwide. It was very apparent from the show notes that the Guli Spring 2011 collection was designed in many ways to be an apparel ambassador for Uzbek culture. The brand explained in detail the history of Uzbek textiles, subtle regional differences, and the techniques used to create them. The detailed explanation of Uzbek weaving whetted my appetite for the collection to come (I admit to “geeking out” reading about their variations on weft and warp). Continue reading “Guli – Spring 2011 – New York”

Ruffian – Spring 2011 – New York

Ruffian’s Spring 2011 collection was a treatise on the warrior female. The dynamic duo of Brian Wolk and Claude Morais looked specifically to Susan Tavers, the only woman who served in the French Foreign Legion. Military and safari abounded, with huge square-pocketed cropped jackets with strong shoulders and muslin silk leopard-print tops that hearkened back to an era when Annie Hall roamed Manhattan.

story by Michael Fragoso
photos by Sandy Ramirez

Ruffian’s Spring 2011 collection was a treatise on the warrior female. The dynamic duo of Brian Wolk and Claude Morais looked specifically to Susan Tavers, the only woman who served in the French Foreign Legion. Military and safari abounded, with huge square-pocketed cropped jackets with strong shoulders and muslin silk leopard-print tops that hearkened back to an era when Annie Hall roamed Manhattan. Gold-buttoned crisp white shirts, lots of strong high waisted billowy pants and a few cocktail dresses worthy of the chicest military gal (complete with her strappy heels courtesy of Manolo Blahnik). Continue reading “Ruffian – Spring 2011 – New York”

Anne Bowen – Spring 2011 – New York

In every Bond film there is a moment when 007 sees the leading lady for the first time. It was that moment that Mrs. Bowen seemed to be trying to capture in this collection.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Adrianna Favero

You had me at “Bond, James Bond.” Not to give away my secret weaknesses but when I read the show notes for Anne Bowen’s Spring Summer 2011 collection and saw the words Aston Martin and Casino Royale I knew I’d like at least some of what I would see. Continue reading “Anne Bowen – Spring 2011 – New York”

Logan Neitzel – Spring 2011 – New York

Logan Neitzel doesn’t mind getting his hands dirty. His desire to create precisely what he sees in his mind’s eye leads him to deep involvement in almost every aspect of his work. Of course at this stage of his career he still must do most things by himself.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Freda Henry

Logan Neitzel doesn’t mind getting his hands dirty. His desire to create precisely what he sees in his mind’s eye leads him to deep involvement in almost every aspect of his work. Of course at this stage of his career he still must do most things by himself. As we viewed his collection together I got the sense from speaking with him though, that might not change all that much as he moves up the ranks of the fashion industry. “Its hard because I can’t hit minimums with factories, so right now I’m just building that until I can hit those minimums and get exactly what I want, but its definitely frustrating.” Yet his choices in fabrics, skins, and textures are so integral to his designs that he hand selects and treats each piece of leather he uses, even using the placement of imperfections as a design element. A designer who does not accept the trap, because I can not do things precisely the way I want I won’t do them at all, usually ends up staying very committed to the critical details when they can finally create everything they dream up. Continue reading “Logan Neitzel – Spring 2011 – New York”

Nary Manivong – Spring 2011 – New York

Traditionally, spring is understood as a season of great renewal, a revival of spirits and a warming of temperaments, another chance to start anew. The collection presented by Nary Manivong for Spring 2011 is an excellent combination of the designer’s past reflections and present hopes: in Manivong’s case, a point to grow forward as well as a look towards his past. This harkening towards past and future presents itself as a cohesive, thoroughly wearable and elegantly youthful spring line.

story by Sarah Patterson
photos by Ned and Aya Rosen

Traditionally, spring is understood as a season of great renewal, a revival of spirits and a warming of temperaments, another chance to start anew. The collection presented by Nary Manivong for Spring 2011 is an excellent combination of the designer’s past reflections and present hopes: in Manivong’s case, a point to grow forward as well as a look towards his past. This harkening towards past and future presents itself as a cohesive, thoroughly wearable and elegantly youthful spring line. Continue reading “Nary Manivong – Spring 2011 – New York”

Mandy Coon – Spring 2011 – New York

In just her third season as a designer, Mandy Coon presented quite a collection for Spring 2011. A graceful blue shimmering water projection added movement behind the ethereal models. Makeup was minimal save for a bluish highlighter, and laurel-braided hair was reminiscent of ancient Greek idols. Ms. Coon’s collection featured textiles of sheer silk, linen, leather and burlap. Unlikely combinations indeed, but somehow she made it work.

story by Rachel Gill
photos by Freda Henry

In just her third season as a designer, Mandy Coon presented quite a collection for Spring 2011. A graceful blue shimmering water projection added movement behind the ethereal models. Makeup was minimal save for a bluish highlighter, and laurel-braided hair was reminiscent of ancient Greek idols. Ms. Coon’s collection featured textiles of sheer silk, linen, leather and burlap. Unlikely combinations indeed, but somehow she made it work. Continue reading “Mandy Coon – Spring 2011 – New York”

Marcel Ostertag – Spring 2011 – Berlin

Ostertag’s clear and identifiable style can be seen through his choice of fabric, graceful lines, beautiful silhouettes, attention to detail, defined tailoring, and an overall edgy influence. This is a designer who has found his voice and is singing through the clothes.

story by Alexandra Dawes
photos by Boris Marberg
photo editing by Alexandra Dawes

Marcel Ostertag sent an exceptional collection down the Mercedes-Benz Berlin Fashionweek runway. One which seemed to harmonize and unite elements from both classic mens and womenswear in order to create a single, cohesive, and beautiful collection.

Continue reading “Marcel Ostertag – Spring 2011 – Berlin”

Corneliani – Spring 2011 – Milan

story by Alexandra Dawes
photos by Boris Marberg and Wolfgang Wolfgang Wöhrle
photo editing by Alexandra Dawes

Italian clothing manufacturer Corneliani sent down a romantic and charming collection for Spring 2011 Milan.  The company is known for their impeccable Italian tailoring.  The show was held in the luxuriant cloisters of the 16th century Leonardo Da Vinci National Museum of Science and Technology.

Continue reading “Corneliani – Spring 2011 – Milan”