Author: archive

Jolibe – Spring 2011

It is tempting to describe Jolibe as a minimalist label, but the description is not wholly accurate.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Adrianna Favero

There are multiple paths to success as a fashion designer. Some attend schools and gain employment with established designers or design houses. Others sew at home and sell their collections at flea markets, online, and make appointments with boutiques to present their work. Still others mix those business models together. Then there is the curious case of  the label Jolibe. Jolibe is comprised of designer Joel Diaz and designer/creative director Christina La Pens. Mr. Diaz first attended design school in his native country of the Dominican Republic before moving on to Parsons here in New York City. He worked for Helmut Lang for five years and freelanced for major labels before launching Jolibe in 2007. To visit the label’s website is to be sent to a sparse Blogspot page. There are pictures of current and past collections, minimal biographical information, and sales and press contact addresses… that’s it. No press clippings, no lists of stores where you can find the brand, no flashy videos or shots of celebrities (Natalie Portman is a major fan, but you’d never know it from the site). This “Margielaistic” approach to promotion and marketing can be risky, but with the label’s recent inclusion in the C.F.D.A Incubator, exposure should no longer be a problem. It might appear as if the duo are anti-publicity, but they’re not. Nor is it some sort of cool affectation calculated to attract by appearing devil may care. Ultimately it’s just not what they’re focused on. What they’re focused on is creating some of the most unique and beautiful clothing you’ve ever seen. Continue reading “Jolibe – Spring 2011”

Nanette Lepore – Spring 2011

Can joy be an element of design? There was a special feel from the moment John Forte and his band began their cool funk jazz set which accompanied the Nanette Lepore Spring 2011 runway show. The premiere of a Nanette Lepore collection is always a vibrant and lively affair, but it’s usually her bright palette, fun prints, and comfortable and imaginative clothes that carry the tune.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Sandy Ramirez

Can joy be an element of design? There was a special feel from the moment John Forte and his band began their cool funk jazz set which accompanied the Nanette Lepore Spring 2011 runway show. The premiere of a Nanette Lepore collection is always a vibrant and lively affair, but it’s usually her bright palette, fun prints, and comfortable and imaginative clothes that carry the tune. As the models swayed in the wings to the music and sashayed down the runway, the consistent upbeat spirit of Nanette Lepore was easily confirmed. There is always a spark in a Nanette Lepore design, a relaxed and fresh feel that has enough structure and enough construction to not become too simple or seem homespun. In the end it’s the level of thoughtfulness that has carried Nanette Lepore’s label to its increasingly secure position in the marketplace. Whether it’s swimwear or separates, dresses, or blouses there are always distinctive details and the creation of visual appeal that is balanced with comfort and ease of wear. Continue reading “Nanette Lepore – Spring 2011”

Not The Having, It’s The Getting

an accessories-focused photo editorial by Elizabeth Waugh and Cherie Peters

A Photo Editorial

photos by Elizabeth Waugh
art direction & styling by Cherie Peters
photo assistant John Rodriguez
hair styling by Eve Whittington
prop styling Sarah Bernstien
manicurist Tracylee Pervival
models Kara Searle and Tallyta Moura from Wilhelmina Continue reading “Not The Having, It’s The Getting”

Ines Di Santo – Spring 2011 Bridal

If you know a woman who is bold, daring, and always cuts a swath through the crowd of the ordinary, and she’s getting married. Tell her she must absolutely visit Toronto and view both of the Di Santo salons.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Sandy Ramirez

The day of a woman’s wedding is to some minds the one day of her life that she can turn herself into a living creation of fantasy. By it’s nature it is her fantasy, and every person’s vision of the perfect embodiment of fantasy differs. However, there must be a group of common elements in those fantasies, otherwise fashion designers, whose livelihood depends on supplying that vision, would be the purest of couturiers providing one dress at a time to each client’s specifications. This is obviously not the case as we have seasonal collections wherein each designer presents their ideals of that fantastical garment by the dozen. The individual interpretations of those deeply ingrained yet shared ideas are what makes one wedding designer’s work different from another. Understand that, and you will appreciate the Canadian-based couture bridal label Ines Di Santo on a whole other level. Continue reading “Ines Di Santo – Spring 2011 Bridal”

Anne Barge – Spring 2011 Bridal

For those who may not be familiar with Ms. Barge’s work, she is an Atlanta-based legendary bridal designer who’s been designing the most special gowns for thirty years. As I watched her Spring 2011 Collection sweep down the runway in the Grand Salon at the Essex House on the south end of Central Park, it struck me with great conviction that Anne Barge is unmistakably an American bridal designer.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Adrianna Favero

What is American style? Are there cuts, shapes and techniques that make a garment feel American? Most would think of iconic brands such as Levi’s or Ralph Lauren as being uniquely American, but in fact its much broader than that. Are not Betsey Johnson and Vans also representative of America? How about Anne Barge? For those who may not be familiar with Ms. Barge’s work, she is an Atlanta-based legendary bridal designer who’s been designing the most special of  gowns for thirty years. As I watched her Spring 2011 Collection sweep down the runway in the Grand Salon at the Essex House on the south end of Central Park, it struck me with great conviction that Anne Barge is unmistakably an American bridal designer. It was then left for me to figure out how I knew that. Continue reading “Anne Barge – Spring 2011 Bridal”

Blumarine – Spring 2011 – Milan

One of the modaCYCLE team’s favorite designers, Anna Molinari, titled her Spring 2011 Blumarine collection “butterfly wings.” The editor of modaCYCLE’s German Edition (modacycle.de), Boris Marberg, was in Italy for Milan Moda Donna and photographed the show.

One of the modaCYCLE team’s favorite designers, Anna Molinari, titled her Spring 2011 Blumarine collection “butterfly wings.” The editor of modaCYCLE’s German Edition (modacycle.de), Boris Marberg, was in Italy for Milan Moda Donna and photographed the show. If you can read German, you can see his article here. Enjoy the photos! Continue reading “Blumarine – Spring 2011 – Milan”

Reem Acra – Spring 2011 – New York

I wanted vintage-looking with a modern attitude, she said.

story by Charles Beckwith
photos by Adrianna Favero

Reem Acra’s Spring 2011 collection seeks to answer the question “what would an American princess look like?” To answer that, she reforged and reformatted the melting pot contents of the last hundred years, showing 16 distinct looks in an intimate presentation at her showroom above New York’s Fifth Avenue. “I wanted vintage-looking with a modern attitude,” she said. Continue reading “Reem Acra – Spring 2011 – New York”

Malan Breton – Spring 2011 – New York

Malan Breton’s Spring 2011 collection was a bit of formality with fun and some sizzle with some substance. His designs hearkened back to the glamor days of Hollywood. Garbo, Dietrich, Harlow and Russell were with the models in spirit as the strode down the runway.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Sandy Ramirez

Malan Breton’s Spring 2011 collection was a bit of formality with fun and some sizzle with some substance. His designs hearkened back to the glamor days of Hollywood. Garbo, Dietrich, Harlow and Russell were with the models in spirit as the strode down the runway. Mr. Breton cleverly used details and design touches to invoke the era, rather than full patterns or styles. The better designers all do this, they know that to overly replicate a design even if it’s just from a photograph is to copy another designer. The good designers also are always sure to add in the elements that to them capture the time they are inspired by, even if that element did not actually exist during those years. For his collection Mr. Breton did this through his use of cuts, slinkier than one would have seen in the 1930s, and more modern materials to achieve the glisten and gloss in fabrics that made up the looks in part or in whole. Continue reading “Malan Breton – Spring 2011 – New York”

Ports 1961 – Spring 2011 – New York

Fiona Cibani seemed unfazed by the past and had no problem placing her own stamp on the passport of Ports 1961, but did her signature result in a great collection?

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Charles Beckwith

Fiona Cibani’s first collection, since taking over for her sister Tia at Ports 1961, created an intriguing challenge. The situation is one you see almost seasonally on the grand stages of the fashion world. How do you inject your style into a brand that already has one to protect? How do you make the collection yours without alienating your core clients? Ports 1961 collections have always had the signature of a travelogue. Rather than simply a passing mention of an exotic locale as an inspiration, Ports 1961 has long used their runway to transport viewers. This season’s destination was the Sahara Desert and the searing sun seemed to have melted away much of Tia Cibani’s more structured looks of past ports of call. Fiona Cibani appears to prefer a softer more draped look than her sister. Gone were the linear square cuts, the strong shoulders and historically based detailing. In were slinky silks, loose fits, and bare shoulders. Fiona Cibani seemed unfazed by the past and had no problem placing her own stamp on the passport of Ports 1961, but did her signature result in a great collection? Continue reading “Ports 1961 – Spring 2011 – New York”