mens – modaCYCLE

Billy Reid – Dixie Cool

Billy Reid spins a lovely yarn… yarn as in a tale, not as in knitwear, though he does that too. His ability to create a collection that feels like a classic novel is truly impressive. His clothes have so much character that they create them. For Spring 2013, his take on Dixie dress was cool and comfortable, with the standouts being two lovely pelican print dresses and suits that echoed the sartorial splendor of the ’30s & ’40s with tipped and wide lapels, and bold tapered cuts.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Adrianna Favero

Carlos Campos – Fall 2012 – Love In Menswear

view the full collection in our Photo Gallery

story by Landon Peoples
photos by Ned and Aya Rosen
web editor Rachel Reneé

Just when the industry began to yawn at color blocking, Carlos Campos revisits and revives the ongoing trend with poise and panache. A good designer is not bound by the cycles of trends, they instill them. There’s something so effortlessly airy about the Carlos Campos Fall 2012 menswear collection that one just can’t stop looking. The clothing, bereft of any typical attention-seeking embellishments in fashion, tells the story of a somber man who spends 50 years on a park bench waiting for his one, true love. Continue reading “Carlos Campos – Fall 2012 – Love In Menswear”

Jose Duran – Spring 2011 – New York

The talented Dominican designer has proven time and time again that he possesses an incredible amount of talent, yet seems to sometimes have trouble with retaining coherency in his collections. Mr. Duran refrained from setting a theme or stating an inspiration for the show, so the audience had little idea of what to expect beforehand.

story by Rachel Gill
photos by Freda Henry

Jose Duran’s Spring 2011 collection’s public debut, held in the Time Warner Center, was highly anticipated. The talented Dominican designer has proven time and time again that he possesses an incredible amount of talent, yet seems to sometimes have trouble with retaining coherency in his collections. Mr. Duran refrained from setting a theme or stating an inspiration for the show, so the audience had little idea of what to expect beforehand. Unfortunately, the collection proved to do little to alleviate the ambiguity over the focus and theme. Continue reading “Jose Duran – Spring 2011 – New York”

John Bartlett – Spring 2011 – New York

Bartlett himself explains the collection: “I looked to the late 1970’s for this collection, really with my favorite models from that era like Rick Edwards and Jeff Aquilon. We have the whole khaki story going on with a hint of safari. It’s a true throwback collection with a nod to today”.

story by Michael Fragoso
portrait by Sandy Ramirez
lookbook photos provided by the designer

The John Bartlett presentation was held in a chic West Village townhouse filled with various tail wagging dogs to greet the masses at the door. The collection revealed a presentation of bright colors for his Spring 2011 collection. Looks ranged from extreme beach wear, tight speedos in khaki and olive green, to shirts and shorts of bright orange and pinks that screamed tropical. After the pool looks, Mr. Bartlett’s collection took a dressy yet casual turn with light blazers of denim and cotton with cargo shorts that looked simple, elegant, and ready for the Hamptons. The standouts from the collection were the shirts and pants printed with a camouflage pattern that upon closer inspection was revealed to be shapes of Bartlett’s own dog, Tiny Tim. Continue reading “John Bartlett – Spring 2011 – New York”

Simon Spurr – Spring 2011 – New York

story by Brandon Ruckdashel
photos by Adrianna Favero

Simon Spurr’s Spring 2011 collection is clean, crisp, pressed, and well tailored. The understated Mr. Spurr creates for himself and his own closet, drawing inspirations from both Savile Row and British historical military dress. This approach becomes more hampered by it’s nature than it’s presentation, as he prefers to dilute those inspirations. A suit, by definition, is “timeless” and thus a well designed suit will stay by a man’s side and hold his shoulders up as time takes its toll. All of the collection’s pieces were well executed with fabrics created under development deals and exclusive to the label. Mr. Spurr’s gaunt composition, however, cuts so tightly that the discernment of garment and model becomes difficult. Continue reading “Simon Spurr – Spring 2011 – New York”

Corneliani – Spring 2011 – Milan

story by Alexandra Dawes
photos by Boris Marberg and Wolfgang Wolfgang Wöhrle
photo editing by Alexandra Dawes

Italian clothing manufacturer Corneliani sent down a romantic and charming collection for Spring 2011 Milan. The company is known for their impeccable Italian tailoring. The show was held in the luxuriant cloisters of the 16^th century Leonardo Da Vinci National Museum of Science and Technology.

Continue reading “Corneliani – Spring 2011 – Milan”

John Bartlett – Fall 2010 Collection – New York

John Bartlett is from Ohio, but his body and mind tend to spend a lot of time in New England, as evidenced by his Spring 2010 Claiborne by John Bartlett line and his new Fall 2010 John Bartlet line. While not a new designer, the West Village man about town has gotten a fair amount of attention lately for his fresh directions in menswear.

story by Charles Beckwith and Sandy Ramirez
photos by Martin Bielecki and Sandy Ramirez
photo editing by Tatyana Bevs

John Bartlett is from Ohio, but his body and mind tend to spend a lot of time in New England, as evidenced by his current Spring 2010 Claiborne by John Bartlett line and his new Fall 2010 John Bartlet line. While not a new designer, the West Village man about town has gotten a fair amount of attention lately for his fresh directions in menswear. Continue reading “John Bartlett – Fall 2010 Collection – New York”

Marlon Gobel – Fall 2010 Collection – New York

With this collection, Marlon joins the likes of Colombian designer Miguel Caballero, in designing fashionable concealed body armor.

story by Brandon Ruckdashel
photos by Tal Shpantzer

Entering into the presentation space, it is clear that Marlon Gobel, for his first solo collection, has designed a high concept line. Standing out from the white seamless walls is a homemade geodesic dome which serves as the centerpiece and framing device for his models. He has seamlessly integrated allusions to strands of DNA, blood vessels, and internal organs into the collection. Highlights of these expressions included the Blood Vessel Braided Tie and a Cashmere Heart and Blood Vessel Sweater. Continue reading “Marlon Gobel – Fall 2010 Collection – New York”

Hugo Boss Black, Fall 2010 Collection In Berlin

From earth tones to eggplant to black and cobalt blue, this elegant and varietal collection of women’s and men’s fall clothing and accessories from Hugo Boss showed quality tailoring with innovative style throughout, and will certainly please a lot of consumers.

story by Charles Beckwith
photos by Boris Marberg

Les Hommes, Fall 2010 Collection at Milan Moda Uomo

The expert tailoring and fit is still there, it is still luxury clothing, but this show felt like a rehash of what they’re already selling.

story by Charles Beckwith
photos by Boris Marberg and Wolfgang Wöhrle

With few exceptions, what we’re seeing in Milan and Berlin so far this season looks safe, and Les Hommes designers Tom Notte and Bart Vandebosch, despite being wild enough to have full gold chrome suits on the runway, seem to be playing it safe. Continue reading “Les Hommes, Fall 2010 Collection at Milan Moda Uomo”