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Chado Ralph Rucci – Spring 2011 – New York

story by Seth Friedermann
photos provided by the designer

Consummate, this single word describes both Ralph Rucci and his art. Ralph Rucci’s designs possess a refined and serene feel to them. They are perfectly balanced, not solely aesthetically but in spirit as well. Viewing the Spring 2011 collection from Chado I felt as if I was reading almost as much as seeing. There was communication occurring, each dress, each jacket, each blouse was imparting a specific message. Fundamental sections such as panels and sleeves carried the same strength as the detailing, creating a sense of wholeness you rarely encounter in fashion. Mr. Rucci creates garments much like a master calligrapher who understands that the form of the symbol communicates as much as the symbol itself. Continue reading “Chado Ralph Rucci – Spring 2011 – New York”

Rachel Antonoff – Spring 2011 – New York

story by Rachel Gill
photos by Adrianna Favero

Rachel Antonoff once again gets the award for having the most original presentation within the New York Spring 2011 shows. Citing children and their dynamic energy as her inspiration, the designer created a setting of a child’s dreamland in a charming townhouse in the West Village. Saturday morning rolled around and cue the entrance of the children, aka models dressed in whimsical, girlish frocks doing everything from drawing, to toasting marshmallows, to taking a bath. Continue reading “Rachel Antonoff – Spring 2011 – New York”

Marlon Gobel – Spring 2011 – New York

Gobel is known for his high concept design execution, as witnessed with his Fall 2010 debut collection, and he certainly stays true to his craft and himself with his offering for Spring 2011.

story by Brandon Ruckdashel
photos by Martin Bielecki

Menswear designer Marlon Gobel sees “Mr. America” seated in a richly appointed leather banquette at the Four Seasons enjoying a power lunch amongst colleagues. He is a titan among men, and displays his strength with a silent focus. He is known and respected not only as a power broker, but for the ideals and values he holds closer than his dreams. This was Mr.Goebel’s vision for his Spring 2011 collection. Gobel is known for his high concept design execution, as witnessed with his Fall 2010 debut collection, and he certainly stays true to his craft and himself with his offering for Spring 2011. I asked Mr. Gobel who is his, “Mr. America?” “I was inspired by the titans of America,” he responded. “These are men who take risks, make choices, and exhibit manners and charm.”

Continue reading “Marlon Gobel – Spring 2011 – New York”

Katie Gallagher – Spring 2011 – New York

Having worked with black, white, and gray in her past collections, Ms. Gallagher really took a step forward with her use of blues and reds here. When paired with her modern patterns and slender tailoring, the result was masculine gladiator meets cool city girl, and it works.

story by Rachel Gill
photos by Martin Bielecki

Aptly titled, “Arena,” Katie Gallagher’s Spring 2011 collection really packed a punch. Recognized in past seasons for her incredibly unique leggings, the designer once again proved to be a front-runner in artistic, innovative, and sleek legwear. This season though, the vision that Ms. Gallagher’s presented was not confined to below the waist. This collection felt perfectly planned and perfectly finished. Athletic “jock-goth” silhouettes provided a strong, coherent image. Points must also be awarded to the designer for her use of color this season. Having worked with black, white, and gray in her past collections, Ms. Gallagher really took a step forward with her use of blues and reds here. When paired with her modern patterns and slender tailoring, the result was amazon gladiator meets cool city girl, and it works. Continue reading “Katie Gallagher – Spring 2011 – New York”

Edition by Georges Chakra – Spring 2011 – New York

Mr. Chakra began his career as a classic couturier and only last year did he step into the maelstrom of worldwide ready to wear. Mr Chakra has been showing at Paris Haute Couture since the 2002 season and has cultivated a large and loyal following amongst his clientele, but at the price points his dazzling skill commands there are only a small number of stores that will purchase from his collection. His 46-piece Spring 2011 collection then represents an opportunity that takes on massive importance.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Freda Henry

“And of course you have to stay current with what is on trend, what is modern.” – Georges Chakra

The designer’s words a few hours before the unveiling of his Spring 2011 collection speak to the grand riddle of fashion design. A fashion designer is really just a term for an artist whose medium is cloth. In fashion we have pop artists, commercial artists, those with stratospheric talent, and everything in between. Success can come in many forms and there is room for all. However, in international ready to wear there is only one way to succeed; a designer must sell a great amount of clothes a minimum of two times per year. They must design clothes that women will buy and that often means compromise and subjugation to current whims.

Continue reading “Edition by Georges Chakra – Spring 2011 – New York”

Kaelen Farncombe – New York – Spring 2011

If we learned one thing it is that Ms. Farncombe is not afraid to take on a tough to translate inspiration. She stated that the impetus for her Spring 2011 collection was a tornado-chasing trip.

story by Aya Rosen
photos by Ned Rosen

Young designer, Kaelen Farncombe launched her line, Kaelen, with a debut collection last season. It received a very warm reception from the fashion press, and more importantly she was picked up by the influential national chain Intermix. With this, her sophomore season, she looked to build on that momentum. If we learned one thing it is that Ms. Farncombe is not afraid to take on a tough to translate inspiration. She stated that the impetus for her Spring 2011 collection was a tornado-chasing trip. The clothes were designed to reflect the chaotic weather patterns and the rapid change between calm and storm. She managed to maintain her elegant lines and minimalist style, while adding fascinating subtleties using representations of dirt, damage, mess, and drama in her designs. Continue reading “Kaelen Farncombe – New York – Spring 2011”

Risto Bimbiloski – Spring 2011 – New York

This season the talented designer deviated from the expected, constructing a collection based more on flowing silk jacquard than knits. Mr. Bimbiloski cited his inspiration to be images from a telescope of the moon, and was influenced by its mystery and timeless beauty.

story by Rachel Gill
photos by Ned and Aya Rosen

Risto Bimbiloski is a designer who has earned extensive recognition for his excellent knitwear creations. However, this season the talented designer deviated from the expected, constructing a collection based more on flowing silk jacquard than knits. Mr. Bimbiloski cited his inspiration to be images from a telescope of the moon, and was influenced by its mystery and timeless beauty. Continue reading “Risto Bimbiloski – Spring 2011 – New York”

John Bartlett – Spring 2011 – New York

Bartlett himself explains the collection: “I looked to the late 1970’s for this collection, really with my favorite models from that era like Rick Edwards and Jeff Aquilon. We have the whole khaki story going on with a hint of safari. It’s a true throwback collection with a nod to today”.

story by Michael Fragoso
portrait by Sandy Ramirez
lookbook photos provided by the designer

The John Bartlett presentation was held in a chic West Village townhouse filled with various tail wagging dogs to greet the masses at the door. The collection revealed a presentation of bright colors for his Spring 2011 collection. Looks ranged from extreme beach wear, tight speedos in khaki and olive green, to shirts and shorts of bright orange and pinks that screamed tropical. After the pool looks, Mr. Bartlett’s collection took a dressy yet casual turn with light blazers of denim and cotton with cargo shorts that looked simple, elegant, and ready for the Hamptons. The standouts from the collection were the shirts and pants printed with a camouflage pattern that upon closer inspection was revealed to be shapes of Bartlett’s own dog, Tiny Tim. Continue reading “John Bartlett – Spring 2011 – New York”

Simon Spurr – Spring 2011 – New York

story by Brandon Ruckdashel
photos by Adrianna Favero

Simon Spurr’s Spring 2011 collection is clean, crisp, pressed, and well tailored. The understated Mr. Spurr creates for himself and his own closet, drawing inspirations from both Savile Row and British historical military dress. This approach becomes more hampered by it’s nature than it’s presentation, as he prefers to dilute those inspirations. A suit, by definition, is “timeless” and thus a well designed suit will stay by a man’s side and hold his shoulders up as time takes its toll. All of the collection’s pieces were well executed with fabrics created under development deals and exclusive to the label. Mr. Spurr’s gaunt composition, however, cuts so tightly that the discernment of garment and model becomes difficult. Continue reading “Simon Spurr – Spring 2011 – New York”

Fratelli Rossetti – Spring 2011 – New York

George Esquivel may be the hottest American shoe designer working today. His couture pieces have graced the feet of dozens of some of the most famous men and women around. Fratelli Rossetti has been around since 1953 and has a reputation for producing footwear and other goods using the highest quality of materials and workmanship in the world (with a generous helping of Italian flair, of course). How would these two cobblers from different shores combine? Effortlessly.

story by Seth Friedermann
interview by Sandy Ramirez
portraits by Sandy Ramirez
product photos provided by the designer

George Esquivel embraces the Fratelli Rossetti Legacy

George Esquivel may be the hottest American shoe designer working today. His couture pieces have graced the feet of dozens of some of the most famous men and women around. Fratelli Rossetti has been around since 1953 and has a reputation for producing footwear and other goods using the highest quality of materials and workmanship in the world (with a generous helping of Italian flair, of course). How have these two cobblers from different shores combined? Effortlessly. Continue reading “Fratelli Rossetti – Spring 2011 – New York”