new designers – Page 4

Karolina Zmarlak – Spring 2011 – New York

Last season, Karolina Zmarlak presented a highly functional and dynamic collection of convertible pieces, which received a good deal of positive press for its wearability and subtle elegance. This season, her convertible concepts have evolved to more intricate layering, richer fabrics and paired separates.

story by Sarah Patterson
photos provided by the designer

There’s something very exciting and also undeniably economical sounding about “convertible clothing.” It’s also playfully futuristic in tone and usually Asian modern in appearance. Last season, Karolina Zmarlak presented a highly functional and dynamic collection of convertible pieces, which received a good deal of positive press for its wearable nature and subtle elegance. This season, her convertible concepts have evolved to more intricate layering, richer fabrics and paired separates. Continue reading “Karolina Zmarlak – Spring 2011 – New York”

Sohung Tong – Spring 2011 – New York

In his latest collection for the Spring 2011 season, he takes this theme of reconstruction a step forward and uses raw materials as well as items that are in use in tailoring as decorations.

story by Aya Rosen
photos by Ned Rosen

One of the main themes of Sohung Tong‘s past collections has been the deconstruction of garments and using those would-be discarded parts for the recreation of new articles of clothing. The results have been resourceful, creative, and shown a strong sense of humor. In his latest collection for the Spring 2011 season, he takes this theme of reconstruction a step forward and uses raw materials as well as items that are in use in tailoring as decorations. Zippers are stitched together to create sculptural strong shouldered bolero jackets, flizelin and plastic mesh is used for elaborate collars, and safety pins hold skirts and add a punk vibe to an otherwise traditional evening dress. Continue reading “Sohung Tong – Spring 2011 – New York”

Sunghee Bang – Spring 2011 – New York

ASTRONAUT VS. SAMURAI…. FASHION!

story by Aya Rosen
photos by Ned Rosen

Two outfits on mannequins were displayed at the entry to The We the People Designer Collective, where Sunghee Bang was presenting her Spring 2011 collection. The garments adorning the mannequins clearly showed her source of inspiration as well as capturing the name of this collection, “Astronaut vs. Samurai.” The clothes dressing the mannequins represented the tension between past and future, tradition and innovation, and East and West. Elements of this tension appeared in all the looks in this collection. Continue reading “Sunghee Bang – Spring 2011 – New York”

Sinister – Spring 2011 – New York

Unorthodox is a neutral adjective. It makes no claims about the correctness or incorrectness of the noun it’s describing. The Sinister Collection’s Spring 2011 line is unorthodox. That term is not used to avoid making a decision about whether or not I liked the collection, I did, rather I use it to make a point about the core nature of striking a very different chord than everybody else is playing.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Adrianna Favero

Unorthodox is a neutral adjective. It makes no claims about the correctness or incorrectness of the noun it’s describing. The Sinister Collection‘s Spring 2011 line is unorthodox. That term is not used to avoid making a decision about whether or not I liked the collection, I did, rather I use it to make a point about the core nature of striking a very different chord than everybody else is playing. Continue reading “Sinister – Spring 2011 – New York”

Jen Kao – Spring 2011 – New York

Jen Kao’s Spring 2011 collection offered proof positive that the Midwestern native has the vision and skills to become an international star. With this, her fifth collection, there has been rapid growth and a definitive shift away from easy body-conscious designs towards more high volume flowing shapes.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Charles Beckwith

Marlon Gobel – Spring 2011 – New York

Gobel is known for his high concept design execution, as witnessed with his Fall 2010 debut collection, and he certainly stays true to his craft and himself with his offering for Spring 2011.

story by Brandon Ruckdashel
photos by Martin Bielecki

Menswear designer Marlon Gobel sees “Mr. America” seated in a richly appointed leather banquette at the Four Seasons enjoying a power lunch amongst colleagues. He is a titan among men, and displays his strength with a silent focus. He is known and respected not only as a power broker, but for the ideals and values he holds closer than his dreams. This was Mr.Goebel’s vision for his Spring 2011 collection. Gobel is known for his high concept design execution, as witnessed with his Fall 2010 debut collection, and he certainly stays true to his craft and himself with his offering for Spring 2011. I asked Mr. Gobel who is his, “Mr. America?” “I was inspired by the titans of America,” he responded. “These are men who take risks, make choices, and exhibit manners and charm.”

Continue reading “Marlon Gobel – Spring 2011 – New York”

Katie Gallagher – Spring 2011 – New York

Having worked with black, white, and gray in her past collections, Ms. Gallagher really took a step forward with her use of blues and reds here. When paired with her modern patterns and slender tailoring, the result was masculine gladiator meets cool city girl, and it works.

story by Rachel Gill
photos by Martin Bielecki

Aptly titled, “Arena,” Katie Gallagher’s Spring 2011 collection really packed a punch. Recognized in past seasons for her incredibly unique leggings, the designer once again proved to be a front-runner in artistic, innovative, and sleek legwear. This season though, the vision that Ms. Gallagher’s presented was not confined to below the waist. This collection felt perfectly planned and perfectly finished. Athletic “jock-goth” silhouettes provided a strong, coherent image. Points must also be awarded to the designer for her use of color this season. Having worked with black, white, and gray in her past collections, Ms. Gallagher really took a step forward with her use of blues and reds here. When paired with her modern patterns and slender tailoring, the result was amazon gladiator meets cool city girl, and it works. Continue reading “Katie Gallagher – Spring 2011 – New York”

Kaelen Farncombe – New York – Spring 2011

If we learned one thing it is that Ms. Farncombe is not afraid to take on a tough to translate inspiration. She stated that the impetus for her Spring 2011 collection was a tornado-chasing trip.

story by Aya Rosen
photos by Ned Rosen

Young designer, Kaelen Farncombe launched her line, Kaelen, with a debut collection last season. It received a very warm reception from the fashion press, and more importantly she was picked up by the influential national chain Intermix. With this, her sophomore season, she looked to build on that momentum. If we learned one thing it is that Ms. Farncombe is not afraid to take on a tough to translate inspiration. She stated that the impetus for her Spring 2011 collection was a tornado-chasing trip. The clothes were designed to reflect the chaotic weather patterns and the rapid change between calm and storm. She managed to maintain her elegant lines and minimalist style, while adding fascinating subtleties using representations of dirt, damage, mess, and drama in her designs. Continue reading “Kaelen Farncombe – New York – Spring 2011”

Victor de Souza – Spring 2011 – New York

Victor de Souza’s third collection continued the development of the construction techniques and fabric choices that are quickly becoming recognizable as his personal signatures.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Nico Iliev provided by the designer

Victor de Souza’s third collection continued the development of the construction techniques and fabric choices that are quickly becoming recognizable as his personal signatures. His love of beautiful rich fabrics and pairing the freedom of long flowing cuts with very stiff shoulder pieces continued in this Spring 2011 collection. It is a very promising sign from this young talent that he even has signatures at this point, as often it takes young designers a few seasons to find those touchstones that they cleverly reinvent yet consistently revisit again and again. However, Mr. de Souza did not simply trot out a bunch of pieces from his past that he knew were winners. There were very definitive attempts to experiment and grow inside of his established aesthetic. Continue reading “Victor de Souza – Spring 2011 – New York”

Zoe Twitt – Spring 2011 – New York

Warrior priestess, meet summer goddess of sun and sand.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Adrianna Favero

Zoe Twitt had unfinished business. The sexy warrior “high priestess” concept which inspired her Fall 2010 collection hadn’t packed up and left her imagination. She felt that collection only told half the story. Her solution? Finish the job with the Spring 2011 line. Warrior priestess, meet summer goddess of sun and sand. A softer and very sensual style pervaded the collection. “The aesthetic has changed in the way that now I’m using all light colors and pastels, where as last season I was all dark and very linear.” That wasn’t the only way that Ms. Twitt had grown, however. With the move from rawness to sophistication came a definite increase in complexity, and her talent appears to have elevated her work significantly. Continue reading “Zoe Twitt – Spring 2011 – New York”