spring 2011 – Page 4

Sinister – Spring 2011 – New York

Unorthodox is a neutral adjective. It makes no claims about the correctness or incorrectness of the noun it’s describing. The Sinister Collection’s Spring 2011 line is unorthodox. That term is not used to avoid making a decision about whether or not I liked the collection, I did, rather I use it to make a point about the core nature of striking a very different chord than everybody else is playing.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Adrianna Favero

Unorthodox is a neutral adjective. It makes no claims about the correctness or incorrectness of the noun it’s describing. The Sinister Collection‘s Spring 2011 line is unorthodox. That term is not used to avoid making a decision about whether or not I liked the collection, I did, rather I use it to make a point about the core nature of striking a very different chord than everybody else is playing. Continue reading “Sinister – Spring 2011 – New York”

Jen Kao – Spring 2011 – New York

Jen Kao’s Spring 2011 collection offered proof positive that the Midwestern native has the vision and skills to become an international star. With this, her fifth collection, there has been rapid growth and a definitive shift away from easy body-conscious designs towards more high volume flowing shapes.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Charles Beckwith

A Détacher – Spring 2011 – New York

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Ned & Aya Rosen

It takes a defiant artist to embrace unbalanced and neurotic as a specific concept for inspiration. Mona Kowalska is not only defiant but exceptionally talented. It is the combination of her vision and skills that makes A Détacher one of the best labels in New York City. Her Spring 2011 collection was unique in its prints and fabrics, striking in its shapes and cuts, and most importantly bold in it’s presentation of the beauty of being slightly off. Continue reading “A Détacher – Spring 2011 – New York”

Mik Cire – Spring 2011 – New York

It is interesting to observe the very obvious differences between Monarchy’s “punk” aggressive street styling and the much more tailored and relaxed feel of Mik Cire. From the calm palette to the roomy cuts, it might be difficult for someone to tell that the two labels were designed by the same man.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Sandy Ramirez

“Dude, it’s clothing, I’m a designer, its just about making cool clothes. I can stand here and try to be some cool artist, and switch up and make it into something it’s not, but at the end of the day its just about making something that I think is cool.”

This bit of unpretentiousness has been brought to you by Eric Kim, designer of The Monarchy Collection and this, his recently launched Mik Cire label. It is interesting to observe the very obvious differences between Monarchy’s “punk” aggressive street styling and the much more tailored and relaxed feel of Mik Cire. From the calm palette to the roomy cuts, it might be difficult for someone to tell that the two labels were designed by the same man. Difficult if you don’t know high quality tailoring craft they display. For all of the cool and comfortable look of the primarily cotton Mik Cire Spring 2011 collection, there was a lot of structure and impressive tailoring going on. Continue reading “Mik Cire – Spring 2011 – New York”

Binetti – Spring 2011 – New York

A designer often has specific feelings or ideas in mind while designing, and the garment can act as a communicator. Viewing the Spring 2011 collection of Diego Binetti it is crystal clear that he wants his clients to feel warm, special, bold, strong, beautiful, and perhaps even loved?

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Freda Henry

Quick, how did you feel when you put on your clothes this morning? Did you choose your outfit based on your mood? Did you reflect on how your mood might change based on what you chose? The subject of feelings and fashion are not often discussed together and it points out a hole in our thinking about clothing. Design evokes feeling. A designer often has specific feelings or ideas in mind while designing, and the garment can act as a communicator. Viewing the Spring 2011 collection of Diego Binetti it is crystal clear that he wants his clients to feel warm, special, bold, strong, beautiful, and perhaps even loved? Continue reading “Binetti – Spring 2011 – New York”

Chado Ralph Rucci – Spring 2011 – New York

story by Seth Friedermann
photos provided by the designer

Consummate, this single word describes both Ralph Rucci and his art. Ralph Rucci’s designs possess a refined and serene feel to them. They are perfectly balanced, not solely aesthetically but in spirit as well. Viewing the Spring 2011 collection from Chado I felt as if I was reading almost as much as seeing. There was communication occurring, each dress, each jacket, each blouse was imparting a specific message. Fundamental sections such as panels and sleeves carried the same strength as the detailing, creating a sense of wholeness you rarely encounter in fashion. Mr. Rucci creates garments much like a master calligrapher who understands that the form of the symbol communicates as much as the symbol itself. Continue reading “Chado Ralph Rucci – Spring 2011 – New York”

Rachel Antonoff – Spring 2011 – New York

story by Rachel Gill
photos by Adrianna Favero

Rachel Antonoff once again gets the award for having the most original presentation within the New York Spring 2011 shows. Citing children and their dynamic energy as her inspiration, the designer created a setting of a child’s dreamland in a charming townhouse in the West Village. Saturday morning rolled around and cue the entrance of the children, aka models dressed in whimsical, girlish frocks doing everything from drawing, to toasting marshmallows, to taking a bath. Continue reading “Rachel Antonoff – Spring 2011 – New York”

Marlon Gobel – Spring 2011 – New York

Gobel is known for his high concept design execution, as witnessed with his Fall 2010 debut collection, and he certainly stays true to his craft and himself with his offering for Spring 2011.

story by Brandon Ruckdashel
photos by Martin Bielecki

Menswear designer Marlon Gobel sees “Mr. America” seated in a richly appointed leather banquette at the Four Seasons enjoying a power lunch amongst colleagues. He is a titan among men, and displays his strength with a silent focus. He is known and respected not only as a power broker, but for the ideals and values he holds closer than his dreams. This was Mr.Goebel’s vision for his Spring 2011 collection. Gobel is known for his high concept design execution, as witnessed with his Fall 2010 debut collection, and he certainly stays true to his craft and himself with his offering for Spring 2011. I asked Mr. Gobel who is his, “Mr. America?” “I was inspired by the titans of America,” he responded. “These are men who take risks, make choices, and exhibit manners and charm.”

Continue reading “Marlon Gobel – Spring 2011 – New York”

Katie Gallagher – Spring 2011 – New York

Having worked with black, white, and gray in her past collections, Ms. Gallagher really took a step forward with her use of blues and reds here. When paired with her modern patterns and slender tailoring, the result was masculine gladiator meets cool city girl, and it works.

story by Rachel Gill
photos by Martin Bielecki

Aptly titled, “Arena,” Katie Gallagher’s Spring 2011 collection really packed a punch. Recognized in past seasons for her incredibly unique leggings, the designer once again proved to be a front-runner in artistic, innovative, and sleek legwear. This season though, the vision that Ms. Gallagher’s presented was not confined to below the waist. This collection felt perfectly planned and perfectly finished. Athletic “jock-goth” silhouettes provided a strong, coherent image. Points must also be awarded to the designer for her use of color this season. Having worked with black, white, and gray in her past collections, Ms. Gallagher really took a step forward with her use of blues and reds here. When paired with her modern patterns and slender tailoring, the result was amazon gladiator meets cool city girl, and it works. Continue reading “Katie Gallagher – Spring 2011 – New York”

Edition by Georges Chakra – Spring 2011 – New York

Mr. Chakra began his career as a classic couturier and only last year did he step into the maelstrom of worldwide ready to wear. Mr Chakra has been showing at Paris Haute Couture since the 2002 season and has cultivated a large and loyal following amongst his clientele, but at the price points his dazzling skill commands there are only a small number of stores that will purchase from his collection. His 46-piece Spring 2011 collection then represents an opportunity that takes on massive importance.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Freda Henry

“And of course you have to stay current with what is on trend, what is modern.” – Georges Chakra

The designer’s words a few hours before the unveiling of his Spring 2011 collection speak to the grand riddle of fashion design. A fashion designer is really just a term for an artist whose medium is cloth. In fashion we have pop artists, commercial artists, those with stratospheric talent, and everything in between. Success can come in many forms and there is room for all. However, in international ready to wear there is only one way to succeed; a designer must sell a great amount of clothes a minimum of two times per year. They must design clothes that women will buy and that often means compromise and subjugation to current whims.

Continue reading “Edition by Georges Chakra – Spring 2011 – New York”