spring 2011 – Page 2

Frank Tell – Spring 2011

One of the most important words in all of fashion vocabulary is distinctive, a critical value that a designer’s work must possess is that it stands out, and even more so may be recognizable as only possibly having come from that designer.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Adrianna Favero

One of the most important words in all of fashion’s vocabulary is distinctive, a critical value that a designer’s work must possess is that it stands out, and even more so may be recognizable as only possibly having come from that designer. There are a number of easier ways to do this. Angela Missoni, Emilio Pucci, and Erdem Moralioglu have all fashioned easily identifiable designer signatures using patterns and prints. Others walk the more difficult road of employing the actual cuts and construction of the clothing as their marque’s marker. Over the past two years it seemed as if this was where Frank Tell was headed. His Fall 2008 collection held hints of promise with his radical construction, lovely play with volume, and the beginning of his tremendous work with knits, which would go on to garner him much deserved praise in the following months. Mr Tell’s next few seasons certainly reinforced this promise as his talent blossomed and he sent some of the best forward looking collections seen in N.Y.C down the runway. It was that trajectory that caused me to find his Spring Summer 2011 collection such a disappointment. The clothes felt overly simplified and watered down. Gone were the complex constructions and experimental tailoring and with them went the drama of his earlier work. To my mind, Frank Tell is not a minimalist, he is at his best when he works in layers and sharp structures. Even the brilliance of his knits was dimmed this season by having them deconstructed and threadbare. Continue reading “Frank Tell – Spring 2011”

Jolibe – Spring 2011

It is tempting to describe Jolibe as a minimalist label, but the description is not wholly accurate.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Adrianna Favero

There are multiple paths to success as a fashion designer. Some attend schools and gain employment with established designers or design houses. Others sew at home and sell their collections at flea markets, online, and make appointments with boutiques to present their work. Still others mix those business models together. Then there is the curious case of the label Jolibe. Jolibe is comprised of designer Joel Diaz and designer/creative director Christina La Pens. Mr. Diaz first attended design school in his native country of the Dominican Republic before moving on to Parsons here in New York City. He worked for Helmut Lang for five years and freelanced for major labels before launching Jolibe in 2007. To visit the label’s website is to be sent to a sparse Blogspot page. There are pictures of current and past collections, minimal biographical information, and sales and press contact addresses… that’s it. No press clippings, no lists of stores where you can find the brand, no flashy videos or shots of celebrities (Natalie Portman is a major fan, but you’d never know it from the site). This “Margielaistic” approach to promotion and marketing can be risky, but with the label’s recent inclusion in the C.F.D.A Incubator, exposure should no longer be a problem. It might appear as if the duo are anti-publicity, but they’re not. Nor is it some sort of cool affectation calculated to attract by appearing devil may care. Ultimately it’s just not what they’re focused on. What they’re focused on is creating some of the most unique and beautiful clothing you’ve ever seen. Continue reading “Jolibe – Spring 2011”

Nanette Lepore – Spring 2011

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Sandy Ramirez

Can joy be an element of design? There was a special feel from the moment John Forte and his band began their cool funk jazz set which accompanied the Nanette Lepore Spring 2011 runway show. The premiere of a Nanette Lepore collection is always a vibrant and lively affair, but it’s usually her bright palette, fun prints, and comfortable and imaginative clothes that carry the tune. As the models swayed in the wings to the music and sashayed down the runway, the consistent upbeat spirit of Nanette Lepore was easily confirmed. There is always a spark in a Nanette Lepore design, a relaxed and fresh feel that has enough structure and enough construction to not become too simple or seem homespun. In the end it’s the level of thoughtfulness that has carried Nanette Lepore’s label to its increasingly secure position in the marketplace. Whether it’s swimwear or separates, dresses, or blouses there are always distinctive details and the creation of visual appeal that is balanced with comfort and ease of wear. Continue reading “Nanette Lepore – Spring 2011”

Anne Barge – Spring 2011 Bridal

For those who may not be familiar with Ms. Barge’s work, she is an Atlanta-based legendary bridal designer who’s been designing the most special gowns for thirty years. As I watched her Spring 2011 Collection sweep down the runway in the Grand Salon at the Essex House on the south end of Central Park, it struck me with great conviction that Anne Barge is unmistakably an American bridal designer.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Adrianna Favero

What is American style? Are there cuts, shapes and techniques that make a garment feel American? Most would think of iconic brands such as Levi’s or Ralph Lauren as being uniquely American, but in fact its much broader than that. Are not Betsey Johnson and Vans also representative of America? How about Anne Barge? For those who may not be familiar with Ms. Barge’s work, she is an Atlanta-based legendary bridal designer who’s been designing the most special of gowns for thirty years. As I watched her Spring 2011 Collection sweep down the runway in the Grand Salon at the Essex House on the south end of Central Park, it struck me with great conviction that Anne Barge is unmistakably an American bridal designer. It was then left for me to figure out how I knew that. Continue reading “Anne Barge – Spring 2011 Bridal”

Blumarine – Spring 2011 – Milan

One of the modaCYCLE team’s favorite designers, Anna Molinari, titled her Spring 2011 Blumarine collection “butterfly wings.” The editor of modaCYCLE’s German Edition (modacycle.de), Boris Marberg, was in Italy for Milan Moda Donna and photographed the show. If you can read German, you can see his article here. Enjoy the photos! Continue reading “Blumarine – Spring 2011 – Milan”

Reem Acra – Spring 2011 – New York

I wanted vintage-looking with a modern attitude, she said.

story by Charles Beckwith
photos by Adrianna Favero

Reem Acra’s Spring 2011 collection seeks to answer the question “what would an American princess look like?” To answer that, she reforged and reformatted the melting pot contents of the last hundred years, showing 16 distinct looks in an intimate presentation at her showroom above New York’s Fifth Avenue. “I wanted vintage-looking with a modern attitude,” she said. Continue reading “Reem Acra – Spring 2011 – New York”

Malan Breton – Spring 2011 – New York

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Sandy Ramirez

Malan Breton’s Spring 2011 collection was a bit of formality with fun and some sizzle with some substance. His designs hearkened back to the glamor days of Hollywood. Garbo, Dietrich, Harlow and Russell were with the models in spirit as the strode down the runway. Mr. Breton cleverly used details and design touches to invoke the era, rather than full patterns or styles. The better designers all do this, they know that to overly replicate a design even if it’s just from a photograph is to copy another designer. The good designers also are always sure to add in the elements that to them capture the time they are inspired by, even if that element did not actually exist during those years. For his collection Mr. Breton did this through his use of cuts, slinkier than one would have seen in the 1930s, and more modern materials to achieve the glisten and gloss in fabrics that made up the looks in part or in whole. Continue reading “Malan Breton – Spring 2011 – New York”

Ports 1961 – Spring 2011 – New York

Fiona Cibani seemed unfazed by the past and had no problem placing her own stamp on the passport of Ports 1961, but did her signature result in a great collection?

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Charles Beckwith

Fiona Cibani’s first collection, since taking over for her sister Tia at Ports 1961, created an intriguing challenge. The situation is one you see almost seasonally on the grand stages of the fashion world. How do you inject your style into a brand that already has one to protect? How do you make the collection yours without alienating your core clients? Ports 1961 collections have always had the signature of a travelogue. Rather than simply a passing mention of an exotic locale as an inspiration, Ports 1961 has long used their runway to transport viewers. This season’s destination was the Sahara Desert and the searing sun seemed to have melted away much of Tia Cibani’s more structured looks of past ports of call. Fiona Cibani appears to prefer a softer more draped look than her sister. Gone were the linear square cuts, the strong shoulders and historically based detailing. In were slinky silks, loose fits, and bare shoulders. Fiona Cibani seemed unfazed by the past and had no problem placing her own stamp on the passport of Ports 1961, but did her signature result in a great collection? Continue reading “Ports 1961 – Spring 2011 – New York”

Vassilios Kostetsos – Spring 2011 – New York

The collection was given strong definition by very aggressive and sexy cuts and warrior touches such as the mail and shoulder crowns.

story by Seth Friedermann
photos by Freda Henry

When an artist’s inspiration is a bygone era or an exotic culture it will almost always result in a collection that feels dramatically different. To reach into the past or draw on a largely unfamiliar land is to guarantee initial interest in the fashions that are striding down the runway. Holding attention and drawing buyers, press, and fans deeper into the season’s offerings is another matter entirely. Themes are a tricky business, being inspired and becoming passionate about antique or unknown artistic elements is a heady trip for a fashion designer. Knowing when to stop using or referencing a transfixing this or a hypnotizing that requires self discipline. For his Spring 2011 collection Vassilios Kostetsos mixed Greek history with the beauty of the colors and climate of Mediterranean life for an ensemble of fashions that when they were good were very good but when they were ordinary were too much. Continue reading “Vassilios Kostetsos – Spring 2011 – New York”

Karolina Zmarlak – Spring 2011 – New York

Last season, Karolina Zmarlak presented a highly functional and dynamic collection of convertible pieces, which received a good deal of positive press for its wearability and subtle elegance. This season, her convertible concepts have evolved to more intricate layering, richer fabrics and paired separates.

story by Sarah Patterson
photos provided by the designer

There’s something very exciting and also undeniably economical sounding about “convertible clothing.” It’s also playfully futuristic in tone and usually Asian modern in appearance. Last season, Karolina Zmarlak presented a highly functional and dynamic collection of convertible pieces, which received a good deal of positive press for its wearable nature and subtle elegance. This season, her convertible concepts have evolved to more intricate layering, richer fabrics and paired separates. Continue reading “Karolina Zmarlak – Spring 2011 – New York”