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So many designers try to merge tradition and modernity in their work, and so often they end up looking odd and out of context. Not Ralph Rucci’s creations. He blends what was with what can be, and you can only know it as beautiful.
story by Charles Beckwith
photos by Tal Shpantzer
video by Stephen Dirkes
There were 68 looks in the Chado Ralph Rucci Fall 2010 collection, all of them their own work of art. The detail up close, particularly for ready to wear garments, is astonishing.
Continue reading “Chado Ralph Rucci – Fall 2010 Collection – New York”
Solidarity and equality in Berlin is mostly found in the darkness of the clubs. I would have loved to see this very interesting collection deep down in Berlin’s underground in the dirty but more vivacious clubs, which attract creatives from all over the world as well as young rich people who want to associate with all that charisma.
story and photos by Boris Marberg
photo editing by Katie Piper
Lala Berlin, opened the Michalsky StyleNite event in Berlin’s Theatre Fridrichstadtpalast as one of three homegrown Berlin avant garde brands showing there that night during Berlin Fashion Week, together perhaps the first viable spin-off from Mercedes-Benz Fashionweek in the tents at Bebelplatz. The popular historic facility literally offered a huge stage, one of the largest in the world still today, to present an amazing evening of energy and talent. Continue reading “Lala Berlin – Fall 2010 Collection – Berlin”
What would happen if we attempted to not define art? What if we simply were with it, reacted to it, and discussed it? To describe and to resist the compulsion to define is a rather challenging concept for many. I suspect that the prospect scares the hell out of the fashion industry. Mona Kowalska of the label A Détacher is a great example of what happens when you embrace that concept in all facets of your business.
story by Seth Friedermann
atelier photos by Adrianna Favero
atelier hair and makeup by Chris Lanston
atelier model Holly from Fenton Moon
runway photos by Sandy Ramirez
“The highest form is no form, the highest art is no art.” — Bruce Lee
What would happen if we attempted to not define art? What if we simply were with it, reacted to it, and discussed it? To describe and to resist the compulsion to define is a rather challenging concept for many. I suspect that the prospect scares the hell out of the fashion industry. Mona Kowalska of the label A Détacher is a great example of what happens when you embrace that concept in all facets of your business. From her designs to her boutique Mona has fashioned a label that is focused on each design as an entity on to itself. This has made her a hit with her clientele but not as much with most press or buyers, until very recently. There in lies a very good lesson, Mona has run a successful boutique and label through good times and bad for 12 years without much press or industry support. Continue reading “A Détacher – Designer Dossier”
Conran’s work is architectural, stylish, and defies trends. This season is no different, with many bold colors, many of his signature cutout silhouettes, and a feeling of unification despite each garment being its own work of thought.
story by Charles Beckwith
reportage and photo editing by Freda Henry
photos by Wolfgang Wöhrle and Boris Marberg
Englishman Jasper Conran is an all-around sort of designer. He started out at age 19 designing a womenswear line for Bendel’s department store in New York, got a degree at FIT, and headed back to London. In the mid-80s he started a menswear line, which typically shows in Milan. Since then he has kept the plates spinning and designed a few, literally, with housewares, fragrances, luggage, and other projects seemingly sprouting up all the time. Continue reading “Jasper Conran – Fall 2010 Collection – London”
This is the kind of renaissance designer Germany needs to keep showing the world if it hopes to contend with the likes of Paris and Milan.
story by Peter Becher
photos by Wolfgang Wöhrle and Peter Becher
photo editing by Katie Piper
Berlin Fashion Week’s edgy intellectual London-trained rising star designer Marcel Ostertag, based in Munich, follows a simple principle: nothing given out of hand, nothing left to chance. The rather large collection is all created in his small studio in the center of Munich, with mass production also carried out locally. Continue reading “Marcel Ostertag – Fall 2010 Collection – Berlin”
John Bartlett is from Ohio, but his body and mind tend to spend a lot of time in New England, as evidenced by his Spring 2010 Claiborne by John Bartlett line and his new Fall 2010 John Bartlet line. While not a new designer, the West Village man about town has gotten a fair amount of attention lately for his fresh directions in menswear.
story by Charles Beckwith and Sandy Ramirez
photos by Martin Bielecki and Sandy Ramirez
photo editing by Tatyana Bevs
John Bartlett is from Ohio, but his body and mind tend to spend a lot of time in New England, as evidenced by his current Spring 2010 Claiborne by John Bartlett line and his new Fall 2010 John Bartlet line. While not a new designer, the West Village man about town has gotten a fair amount of attention lately for his fresh directions in menswear. Continue reading “John Bartlett – Fall 2010 Collection – New York”
Korean designer Bumsuk Choi has sought to redefine the image of young professionals with his Fall 2010 collection. He still has them don a well tailored jacket, but ditches the pin-tucked trousers for black leggings and leopard print Doc Martens. This is an achieved edge, Bumsuk claims, for the General Idea customer.
story by Rachel Francois
photos by Tal Shpantzer
Korean designer Bumsuk Choi has sought to redefine the image of young professionals with his Fall 2010 collection. He still has them don a well tailored jacket, but ditches the pin-tucked trousers for black leggings and leopard print Doc Martens. This is an achieved edge, Bumsuk claims, for the General Idea customer. Continue reading “General Idea – Fall 2010 Collection – New York”
New York-based FIT-educated Honduran designer Carlos Campos took inspiration from the Robert Rodriguez film Desperado. He was attracted to the chemistry and dynamism embodied by the film’s stars Antonio Banderas and Salma Hayek, and led him on a path to craft sensuous garments with a modern mariachi turned rock star vibe.
story by Daphnee Fortunate
photos by Martin Bielecki
photo editing by Tatyana Bevs
New York-based FIT-educated Honduran designer Carlos Campos took inspiration from the Robert Rodriguez film Desperado. He was attracted to the chemistry and dynamism embodied by the film’s stars Antonio Banderas and Salma Hayek, and led him on a path to craft sensuous garments with a modern mariachi turned rock star vibe. Continue reading “Carlos Campos – Fall 2010 Collection – New York”
The colors are all over the place, but it works. Weyer is dressing strong women in a very elegant way, with coltish notes and a lot of glamor.
story by Boris Marberg
photos by Boris Marberg and Pete Cameron Dominkovits
photo editing by Katie Piper
Frida Weyer is one of the rising star Berlin designers.
Weyer founded her label in 2008, after studying fashion design at the ESMOD International Fashion University in Berlin. She recently won the Premium Young Designers award and was a finalist of the Designer for Tomorrow by Peek & Cloppenburg during Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin, as well as their New Faces Fashion Award winner in 2009. Continue reading “Frida Weyer – Fall 2010 Collection – Berlin”
The aim of the new collection was to create something holistically interconnected. All elements of the collection are part of one mind, from the straight-line cuts of the figure-enhancing blouses and elegant trousers to the bags, belts, and jewelery.
story and photos by Boris Marberg
photo editing by Katie Piper
Christina Arend’s arrondissement Aq1 brand has a self-concept of a premium label with a mixture of casual and evening dress. With her last collection she won the fist price of the Premium Young Designers Award Spring/Summer 2010.
In January she presented her newest collection “Oneness Universe” at the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin. Arend was born in 1984 and started her design career at well known labels and designers like Kaviar Gauche (Berlin), Jasmin De Milo (London) and Fendi after finishing a university fashion design program.
Continue reading “arrondissement Aq1 – Fall 2010 Collection – Berlin”
